Gnocchetti with Lamb Ragù, Myrtle, Pecorino and Cannonau Reduction
- Jun 15
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 21
Story of the Dish
Few ingredients tell the story of Sardinia more clearly than lamb, Cannonau, myrtle, and Pecorino Sardo. Together, they represent centuries of pastoral tradition, mountain villages, shepherd culture, and the rugged landscapes that have shaped the island's cuisine.
Lamb has always occupied a central role in Sardinian cooking. For generations, shepherds moved their flocks across the island's hills and mountains, creating a culinary culture built around sheep, lamb, milk, and cheese. Even today, some of Sardinia's most celebrated dishes originate from this pastoral heritage.
This recipe takes those traditional flavors and presents them through a refined, restaurant-style lens. The ragù is prepared from slowly braised lamb shoulder, allowing the meat to become tender while developing deep layers of flavor. Cannonau, Sardinia's most important red wine, forms the backbone of the sauce. As it reduces over several hours, it contributes fruit, spice, structure, and richness that perfectly complement the lamb.
The addition of myrtle introduces one of Sardinia's most distinctive aromas. Growing wild throughout the island, myrtle has long been used in cooking, curing, and the production of mirto liqueur. Its herbal, resinous, and slightly balsamic character brings complexity to the ragù without overpowering the meat.
Gnocchetti Sardi, often referred to as malloreddus, are the ideal pasta for this preparation. Their ridged surface captures the ragù while maintaining enough texture to stand up to the richness of the sauce.
The dish is completed with aged Pecorino Sardo and a final Cannonau reduction. The cheese contributes salinity and depth, while the reduction intensifies the wine's character and creates a luxurious finish.
This is not the lamb pasta a Sardinian grandmother would prepare on a Sunday afternoon. Instead, it is a contemporary interpretation built upon traditional ingredients and modern technique. The soul remains deeply Sardinian, but the presentation belongs to a modern restaurant.
The result is rich yet balanced, rustic yet elegant, and unmistakably connected to the island that inspired it.
Ingredients
Serves 4
For the Lamb Ragù
1 1/2 pounds lamb shoulder, cut into small cubes
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
1 yellow onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups Cannonau wine
2 cups lamb stock or beef stock
2 bay leaves
1 rosemary sprig
4 fresh myrtle leaves or 1 teaspoon dried myrtle
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
For the Cannonau Reduction
1 cup Cannonau wine
1 small shallot, finely minced
1 tablespoon cold butter
For the Pasta
1 pound gnocchetti sardi (malloreddus)
1 cup grated Pecorino Sardo Maturo
Reserved pasta water
To Finish
Additional Pecorino Sardo
Fresh myrtle leaves (optional)
Freshly cracked black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
Preparation
Begin by preparing the lamb ragù.
Remove the lamb from refrigeration approximately thirty minutes before cooking. This promotes more even browning and prevents the meat from cooling the cooking vessel excessively.
Pat the lamb completely dry using paper towels. Moisture is the enemy of caramelization.
Heat the olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven or large braising pot over medium-high heat.
Working in batches if necessary, add the lamb and allow it to brown deeply on all sides. Avoid overcrowding the pot. If too much meat is added at once, the lamb will steam rather than develop the rich caramelization that forms the foundation of the ragù.
Once browned, remove the lamb and reserve.
Lower the heat slightly and add the onion, carrot, and celery.
Cook slowly for approximately ten minutes until the vegetables become soft and lightly golden. This soffritto creates sweetness and depth that will balance the richness of the lamb.
Add the garlic and tomato paste.
Cook for one to two minutes while stirring continuously. The tomato paste should darken slightly and lose its raw flavor.
Return the lamb to the pot.
Pour in the Cannonau wine.
Immediately scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to release all of the caramelized bits developed during browning. These concentrated flavors are essential to the finished sauce.
Allow the wine to reduce by approximately half.
As the alcohol evaporates, the fruit, spice, and tannins of the Cannonau become concentrated and begin integrating with the lamb.
Add the stock, rosemary, bay leaves, and myrtle.
Bring everything to a gentle simmer.
Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and cook for approximately two and a half to three hours.
The liquid should barely move.
Slow cooking is critical. During this time, the collagen within the lamb gradually breaks down, creating a ragù that becomes rich and silky without feeling heavy.
As the sauce cooks, stir occasionally and monitor the liquid level.
If necessary, add small amounts of stock to maintain the proper consistency.
When finished, the lamb should be tender enough to break apart with a spoon.
Remove the rosemary, bay leaves, and myrtle.
Using the back of a spoon, gently shred some of the lamb while leaving other pieces intact. This creates a more interesting texture than a completely shredded ragù.
Taste and adjust seasoning.
The finished ragù should be rich, aromatic, and deeply savory, with subtle herbal notes from the myrtle and complexity from the Cannonau.
For the Cannonau reduction, place the shallot and wine into a small saucepan.
Bring to a gentle simmer and reduce slowly until approximately three-quarters of the liquid has evaporated.
The reduction should become glossy and concentrated while retaining the wine's fruit character.
Remove from the heat and whisk in the cold butter.
The butter softens the tannins and creates a luxurious texture.
Reserve.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil.
Cook the gnocchetti sardi until approximately two minutes before al dente.
Reserve at least two cups of pasta water before draining.
Transfer the pasta directly into the ragù.
Add several spoonfuls of pasta water and continue cooking over medium heat.
This step is essential.
The starch released from the pasta combines with the ragù, creating a more cohesive and elegant sauce.
Add the grated Pecorino Sardo gradually while stirring.
The cheese should melt into the sauce rather than sit on top of it.
Continue cooking until the pasta reaches the perfect texture and every piece of gnocchetto is coated in the ragù.
The finished consistency should be rich and glossy rather than dry.
To plate, spoon the pasta into warm bowls.
Arrange some of the larger pieces of lamb naturally throughout the dish.
Drizzle the Cannonau reduction around and over the pasta.
Finish with additional Pecorino Sardo, freshly cracked black pepper, and a few drops of excellent extra virgin olive oil.
Serve immediately.
Wine Pairing
Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva
This is the most authentic pairing and the strongest overall choice. The wine already plays a central role in both the ragù and reduction, creating harmony from the first bite to the final sip. Its ripe red fruit, Mediterranean herbs, and soft spice complement every element of the dish.
Carignano del Sulcis Superiore
Carignano offers darker fruit, greater structure, and earthy complexity. Its acidity cuts through the richness of the lamb while its savory character enhances the myrtle and Pecorino.
Brunello di Montalcino
The power and elegance of Brunello make it an exceptional partner for slow-braised lamb. Its acidity keeps the palate refreshed while its complexity develops beautifully alongside the Cannonau reduction.
Barolo
Barolo's tannins interact wonderfully with the protein and richness of lamb. As the wine opens, notes of rose, leather, and spice create remarkable depth with the ragù.
Bovale Sardo
One of Sardinia's most underrated wines. Bovale offers dark fruit, rustic character, and firm structure that naturally complement lamb. Its earthy qualities make it particularly effective alongside the myrtle.
Chef Tips
The biggest mistake when making lamb ragù is rushing the cooking process. Lamb shoulder requires time for the connective tissue to break down properly. If the meat still feels firm after two hours, continue cooking.
Do not overuse myrtle. Myrtle should function like rosemary or bay leaf—an aromatic accent rather than a dominant flavor. Too much can overwhelm the dish and introduce bitterness.
The Cannonau reduction should be prepared separately rather than added directly to the ragù. This creates two different expressions of the wine: one integrated into the sauce and one concentrated as a finishing element.
Finally, always finish the gnocchetti directly in the ragù with pasta water. This final emulsification is what transforms a good pasta into a restaurant-quality dish.
Chef Gianluca Deiana
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