The History of Pesto: From Ancient Rome to the World

Jul 25
8 min read

Pesto is one of Italy’s most celebrated culinary treasures, but the sauce we know today did not appear overnight. Its story spans more than two thousand years, evolving from simple Roman herb pastes into the world-famous Pesto alla Genovese.

1st Century A.D. (After Christ): The Roman Origins

The earliest known ancestor of pesto dates back to the 1st century A.D. (After Christ) during the Roman Empire.

Ancient Romans prepared a sauce called moretum, described in the Appendix Vergiliana, a collection of poems traditionally associated with the Roman poet Virgil.

Moretum was made by crushing together:

Garlic
Fresh herbs
Aged cheese
Olive oil
Salt
Vinegar

Although basil was not the main ingredient, the preparation method was exactly the same: all the ingredients were crushed by hand in a mortar using a wooden pestle. This technique would later give pesto its name.

The Basil Question: Why Didn’t the Romans Make Pesto?

One of the most common questions is:

If basil already existed, why wasn’t pesto invented centuries earlier?

The answer is surprisingly simple.

Sweet basil did not originate in Italy. It originated in India and tropical Asia, where it had been cultivated for more than 4,000 to 5,000 years.

Through trade routes, basil reached the Mediterranean and was already known in Italy during Roman times. However, the Romans did not consider basil a primary culinary ingredient. Instead, it was valued mainly as:

A medicinal plant
A fragrant herb
An ornamental plant
A symbolic plant in different cultures

Simply having basil available was not enough to create pesto. History offers many similar examples. Tomatoes arrived in Europe during the 16th century, yet Italians did not fully embrace tomato sauce until the 17th and 18th centuries.

An ingredient can exist for centuries before the right recipe is created.

The Middle Ages (13th–15th Century)

During the Middle Ages, Ligurians developed a sauce called agliata, made primarily from garlic, vinegar, and sometimes walnuts or bread.

It was widely used by sailors because garlic and vinegar helped preserve food during long sea voyages.

Most food historians consider agliata to be the direct culinary ancestor of modern pesto.

The Late 18th Century: Everything Comes Together

By the late 1700s, basil cultivation flourished around Prà, a small village just west of Genoa.

The basil grown in Prà was unlike most other varieties.

Today it is known as Genovese Basil DOP, famous for its:

Small, delicate leaves
Bright green color
Sweet aroma
Floral fragrance
Extremely low bitterness

This sweetness is one of the secrets behind authentic Pesto alla Genovese.

Unlike stronger basil varieties grown elsewhere, Genovese basil from Prà does not overpower the sauce. Because pesto is made with raw basil, every aromatic compound remains intact. A bitter basil would produce a harsh, aggressive flavor, while the sweet basil from Prà creates the fresh, delicate, and balanced taste that has become famous around the world.

The unique climate of Prà also plays a crucial role. The combination of sea breezes from the Ligurian Sea, mineral-rich soil, abundant sunshine, and mild temperatures produces basil with an exceptional concentration of essential oils and an unmistakable perfume.

When this extraordinary basil was combined with Liguria’s delicate extra virgin olive oil, Mediterranean pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Sardinian Pecorino cheese, the modern pesto was born.

1863: The First Official Recipe

The most important date in pesto’s history is 1863.

That year, Genoese gastronome Giovanni Battista Ratto published La Cuciniera Genovese, the first cookbook to record the recipe for Pesto alla Genovese.

His recipe included:

Genovese basil
Garlic
Pine nuts
Parmigiano Reggiano
Sardinian Pecorino cheese
Extra virgin olive oil
A small amount of butter

Butter was common in many nineteenth-century recipes but gradually disappeared, leaving olive oil as the only traditional fat.

The 20th Century: Pesto Conquers the World

During the early twentieth century, pesto became the signature sauce of Ligurian cuisine.

Following World War II, Italian immigrants introduced it to the United States, Argentina, Australia, and many other countries.

By the 1980s and 1990s, commercial production transformed pesto into one of Italy’s most recognized culinary exports.

2008: The World Pesto Championship

To preserve the authentic tradition, Genoa established the World Pesto Championship in 2008, where competitors prepare pesto entirely by hand using a marble mortar and a wooden pestle.

Why Is It Called “Pesto”?

The word pesto comes from the Italian verb pestare, meaning “to crush” or “to pound.”

The name refers to the traditional preparation method—not to basil itself.

Timeline

1st Century A.D. (After Christ): Ancient Romans prepare moretum, the earliest known ancestor of pesto.
13th–15th Century: Ligurians create agliata, the direct predecessor of pesto.
Late 18th Century: Sweet Genovese basil cultivated in Prà becomes the defining ingredient of the sauce.
1863: Giovanni Battista Ratto publishes the first documented recipe for Pesto alla Genovese.
1950s–1960s: Italian immigrants introduce pesto to the rest of the world.
1980s–1990s: Industrial production makes pesto a global icon.
2008: Genoa hosts the first World Pesto Championship.

Chef Gianluca’s Note

One of the greatest misconceptions about pesto is that it was invented when basil first arrived in Italy. In reality, basil had been known since Roman times, but it took nearly two thousand years for Ligurian farmers to cultivate the uniquely sweet basil of Prà and for local ingredients to come together in perfect harmony. The result was Pesto alla Genovese—a sauce that reflects the history, agriculture, and traditions of Liguria more than any single ingredient alone.

Why Are Trofie Traditionally Served with Pesto?

If you travel to Liguria, you will quickly discover that Pesto alla Genovese and trofie are considered one of the most iconic combinations in Italian cuisine.

This pairing is not a modern invention. Both the pasta and the sauce were born in the same region and developed together through centuries of Ligurian culinary tradition.

A Shared Origin: Liguria

Both trofie and Pesto alla Genovese come from Liguria, the narrow coastal region of northwestern Italy.

For generations, Ligurian families prepared simple fresh pasta using only flour and water. Trofie became one of the region's most beloved shapes because they were inexpensive, easy to make by hand, and perfectly suited to capture the local sauces.

When pesto became the most famous sauce of Ligurian cuisine, trofie naturally became its ideal partner.

Why Do Trofie Work So Well With Pesto?

The secret is the shape of the pasta.

Traditional trofie are small, hand-rolled pieces of pasta with a twisted, spiral shape. Those twists create small spaces and ridges that hold onto the pesto, allowing the sauce to coat every bite.

Unlike smooth pasta shapes, where a sauce can slide away, trofie are designed to capture the texture and aroma of the basil sauce.

This is one of the fundamental principles of Italian cuisine:

The pasta shape is chosen according to the sauce it must carry.

The Traditional Ligurian Preparation: Trofie, Pesto, Potatoes, and Green Beans

A very important clarification: in the traditional Ligurian recipe, potatoes and green beans are not served separately as a side dish.

They are cooked together with the pasta and become part of the final dish.

The classic preparation is:

Potatoes are peeled and cut into small cubes.
Green beans are cleaned and cut into pieces.
Both are cooked in the same pot of salted water used for the pasta.
The trofie are added to the same pot and cooked together with the vegetables.
Everything is drained together.
Finally, the pesto is added and mixed with a little pasta cooking water to create a smooth, creamy coating.

The final dish contains:

Fresh trofie pasta
Small pieces of potato
Green beans
Pesto alla Genovese

Everything is combined together in one dish.

Why Are Potatoes and Green Beans Added?

This tradition comes from Ligurian home cooking.

Potatoes add:

Creaminess
Sweetness
More substance to the dish

Green beans add:

Freshness
A slight crunch
A lighter vegetal flavor

Together they balance the richness of the pesto, creating a complete and harmonious dish.

Why Not Just Eat Trofie With Pesto Alone?

Of course, trofie with only pesto is delicious and commonly served today. However, the most traditional Ligurian version is:

Trofie al pesto con patate e fagiolini.

The vegetables are not an optional garnish and they are not placed on the side. They are an integral part of the recipe and represent the historical way Ligurian families prepared this dish.

Chef Gianluca's Tip

When making authentic trofie al pesto, never cook the pesto. The heat of the pasta and the addition of a small amount of pasta cooking water are enough to create the perfect consistency. The goal is to preserve the fresh aroma of the basil, the creaminess of the cheese, and the delicate flavor of the Ligurian ingredients.

Traditional Trofie al Pesto: Two Versions of a Classic Ligurian Dish

There are two common ways to enjoy Trofie al Pesto today.

The first version is the simpler one, where the pasta is dressed only with Pesto alla Genovese. The second version is the traditional Ligurian preparation, known as Trofie al Pesto con Patate e Fagiolini, where potatoes and green beans are cooked together with the pasta and become an integral part of the dish.

The version with potatoes and green beans is not a modern addition—it is the original home-style recipe from Liguria, created to make the dish more complete, nutritious, and balanced.

Version One: Trofie al Pesto (Without Potatoes and Green Beans)

Ingredients (4 servings)

For the Pesto alla Genovese:

2 cups fresh Genovese basil leaves
2 garlic cloves
⅓ cup pine nuts
½ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
¼ cup Pecorino Fiore Sardo, finely grated
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt, to taste

For the Pasta:

1 pound fresh trofie pasta
Salt for pasta water
A small amount of pasta cooking water

Preparation

Prepare the Pesto

Traditionally, pesto is made using a marble mortar and wooden pestle.

Crush the garlic with a pinch of sea salt until creamy.
Add the pine nuts and continue crushing.
Add the basil leaves gradually, crushing gently to release their essential oils.
Add the cheeses.
Slowly incorporate the extra virgin olive oil until the pesto becomes smooth and creamy.

If using a blender, pulse briefly to avoid heating the basil, which can darken the color and create bitterness.

Cook the Trofie

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Cook the trofie until tender.
Reserve some pasta cooking water before draining.
Mix the pesto with a little pasta water to create a smooth, silky sauce.
Toss the trofie with the pesto until every piece is coated.

Never cook pesto directly on the heat. The warmth of the pasta is enough to release the aromas while preserving the freshness of the basil.

Version Two: Traditional Trofie al Pesto con Patate e Fagiolini

The Authentic Ligurian Version

This is the historic Ligurian preparation.

In traditional Ligurian homes, potatoes and green beans are not served on the side and they are not a garnish. They are cooked together with the pasta and become part of the dish itself.

This combination was created as a practical and delicious way to make a simple pasta dish more complete using ingredients available in the region.

Ingredients (4 servings)

For the Pesto alla Genovese:

2 cups fresh Genovese basil leaves
2 garlic cloves
⅓ cup pine nuts
½ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
¼ cup Pecorino Fiore Sardo, finely grated
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt, to taste

For the Pasta:

1 pound fresh trofie pasta
2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
8 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into smaller pieces
Salt for pasta water

Preparation

Cook the Vegetables and Pasta Together

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Add the potatoes first because they require more cooking time.
After a few minutes, add the green beans.
Add the trofie and cook everything together until the pasta is ready.
Reserve some pasta cooking water.
Drain the pasta, potatoes, and green beans together.

Finish the Dish

Place the pesto in a large bowl.
Add a little pasta cooking water to loosen the sauce.
Add the hot trofie, potatoes, and green beans.
Mix gently until everything is coated with the pesto.

The final dish should contain:

The twisted texture of trofie
The sweetness and creaminess of potatoes
The freshness of green beans
The aromatic flavor of authentic Pesto alla Genovese

Chef Gianluca's Tip

The most authentic way to experience pesto is not by adding more ingredients, but by respecting the balance of the original recipe.

The traditional Ligurian version with potatoes and green beans represents the history of home cooking in Liguria: simple ingredients, local products, and a perfect harmony between pasta and sauce.

The version without vegetables is delicious and widely served today, but Trofie al Pesto con Patate e Fagiolini is the original expression of Ligurian tradition.