The Trattoria in St. James is a compact, chef driven Italian restaurant with a serious pasta program, seasonal cooking and enough discipline to earn 3.5 out of 5.

Restaurant Joanina is a solid Long Island Italian restaurant with genuine Italian elements, good value, a strong wine program, and a menu that also carries a significant New York Italian American influence. Final rating: 3.0 out of 5.

Osteria Umbra is one of Long Island’s stronger genuinely Italian restaurant candidates, with credible regional identity, serious pasta and a strong wine program. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.