Lasagne Rivisitate al Radicchio e Taleggio (Italian Radicchio and Taleggio Lasagne) Radicchio and Taleggio is an argument, not a marriage. One is bitter, tannic and faintly metallic; the other is fat, ammoniac at the rind and sweet in the paste. Put them together badly and the bitterness wins. Put them together with method and each stops the other going too far, which is why the north has eaten this pairing on a board long before anyone thought to bake it. This version is a c

Lasagne Rivisitate alla Zucca, Salvia e Parmigiano (Italian Pumpkin Sage and Parmigiano Lasagne) This is a closed lasagne, baked in one tray and cut into squares, organised around one awkward fact: raw pumpkin is roughly ninety percent water. Everything that decides whether the dish is excellent or merely pleasant happens in the oven, before a sheet of pasta is laid down, while that water leaves the flesh and the sugars behind it caramelise. The revisit is proportion rather t

Lasagne Rivisitate ai Funghi Porcini (Italian Porcini Mushroom Lasagne) Porcini are the one mushroom that can carry a baked pasta on their own, and this lasagne is built to prove it. There is no ragu underneath, no tomato anywhere, no second vegetable competing for attention. What holds the sheets together is a besciamella infused with the soaking water of dried porcini, and what fills them is a dry, deeply browned duxelles of fresh caps and stems. The revisit is in the archi