Linguine alle Vongole Veraci, Crema di Carciofi e Bottarga di Cabras (Italian Linguine with Clams, Artichoke Cream and Bottarga di Cabras) Linguine alle vongole is the pasta Italians argue about most, and almost every argument is about water. Too much and the sauce is soup, too little and the clams give nothing. Here the clams are opened in batches, their liquor is filtered clean of sand, and that liquor becomes the only salt the sauce needs. Two Sardinian ideas sit underneat

Linguine con Aragosta Blu, Pomodorini del Piennolo, Dragoncello e Olio al Basilico Blue lobster is the most expensive thing most Italian kitchens ever put into a pasta, and the fastest way to waste it is to treat it as a garnish. Here the shells are worked first, roasted and simmered into a concentrated fumet that becomes the sauce, and the meat goes in at the very end, barely cooked, so it reaches the table still faintly translucent at the centre. Around it sit three Campani