This classic Neapolitan ham and mushroom pizza relies on moisture control. Mushrooms, mozzarella and cooked ham can all release water, so the topping must be prepared carefully to protect the soft but properly cooked center.

Neapolitan Diavola Pizza with Tipo 00 dough, Italian spicy salami, three oven methods, wine and Italian beer pairings.

Sfincione Palermitano (Italian Palermo Style Sfincione) Sfincione is the bread pizza of Palermo: a tall, soft slab of dough under a wet, sweet topping of slow cooked onion, tomato and anchovy, finished with caciocavallo and a blanket of toasted breadcrumbs. It is sold warm from bakeries and street vans, eaten by hand, and judged on two things: how airy the crumb is and how dry the top stays. Yield: 8 squares. Active time: 50 minutes. Rising: about 3 hours. Bake: 25 minutes. T