A refined Sardinian stuzzichino of crisp pane carasau, red prawn tartare, bottarga, citrus gel and fennel.

Cozze Ripiene alla Spezzina (Stuffed Mussels from La Spezia, Liguria) Cozze ripiene alla spezzina are the mussels of the Gulf of La Spezia, opened raw, filled with a soft mixture of bread, egg, Parmigiano and marjoram, tied shut and simmered in a light tomato sauce. They taste of the sea first and of the stuffing second. Each mussel reaches the table as a small tender parcel that holds together until the fork opens it, sitting in a glossy sauce that asks for bread. Yield: 4 a

Fregola con Pomodori Confit, Gambero Rosso e Moscardini (Italian Fregola with Red Prawn and Baby Octopus) Three things in this bowl want three different amounts of heat and none of them agrees with the others. The tomatoes need two hours at a temperature barely worth calling cooking. The moscardini need a real wet braise before they stop being rubber. The red prawn wants forty seconds, or nothing. The fregola sits underneath and holds the three together. Make the clocks conve