Traditional Piedmontese vitello tonnato with gently poached veal and a silken tuna, anchovy, caper and egg-yolk sauce—without mayonnaise.

Tartare di Tonno (Italian Tuna Tartare) Tartare di Tonno is what a good Italian kitchen does when the fish is so fresh that cooking it would be a waste. There is no heat in this recipe and almost no technique in the theatrical sense. There is a piece of tuna, a knife, a cold bowl and a handful of seasonings measured with restraint. Everything that makes the dish good happens before the plate leaves the pass: how the fish was handled, how cold it stayed, how it was cut and how