Lake Como missoltini, sun-dried and pressed shad, grilled and dressed with vinegar, oil and parsley, served on soft polenta.

Burrida Moderna di Gattuccio, Crema di Noci e Cipolla Rossa in Agrodolce (Modern Italian Sardinian Burrida) Burrida is the sharpest thing the Cagliari waterfront does with fish. Poached gattuccio, the small catshark English speakers call dogfish, meets a walnut and vinegar cream that the old cooks bound with the fish's own liver. This version keeps every flavour and rebuilds the plate: cool walnut cream underneath, warm fish on top, pickled red onion petals, a vinegar reducti

Burrida a Sa Casteddaia (Italian Cagliari Style Dogfish) Burrida a sa casteddaia is the cold dish Cagliari puts at the front of a serious meal, and it is one of the few Italian preparations in which the sauce matters more than the fish. Pieces of gattuccio, the small catshark English speakers call dogfish, are poached, cooled and then buried in a thick paste of pounded walnuts, garlic, vinegar and the livers of the fish itself. Nothing is served hot. Nothing is served the day