Hazelnut is one of the defining flavors of Piedmontese pastry, particularly across the Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato. In budino, roasted hazelnut paste brings aroma, natural fat, and structure to a cooked dairy custard.

Sorbetto al Pompelmo Rosa (Italian Pink Grapefruit Sorbet) Pink grapefruit is the one citrus that arrives at the sorbet machine carrying a problem, and the problem is not acidity. It is bitterness, and bitterness does not behave the way sharpness does. Handled badly the sorbet finishes hard and medicinal; handled properly it finishes long, faintly resinous and deeply refreshing, which is exactly why it belongs at the end of a heavy meal rather than at the beginning. Yield: 6

Crema al Mascarpone (Classic Italian Mascarpone Cream) Crema al mascarpone is three ingredients and one risk. Yolks, sugar and mascarpone become a dense cold cream that stands on a spoon, and the only thing between you and it is the temptation to keep mixing. Work mascarpone hard enough and it stops being a cream at all: it turns into butter, in the bowl, and nothing brings it back. This is the plain Lombard version, no whipped cream and no thickener, served in a glass with s