Cevapcici Triestini (Italian Trieste Grilled Meat Rolls) Cevapcici Triestini are small skinless rolls of ground beef and pork, salted, rested and grilled hard until the outside is dark and the inside stays wet. In Trieste they are tucked into warm flatbread with raw chopped onion and ajvar, and eaten fast, standing up. There is no egg and no breadcrumb in the mixture. What holds it together is cold, and the recipe is mostly about keeping it that way. Yield: 6 servings, about

Trieste-style goulash built on beef, a generous quantity of onions, paprika, and patient braising until the onions become the sauce and the meat is spoon-tender.

Friuli Venezia Giulia is the Italian region where a map becomes an explanation. Austria lies beyond the northern mountains, Slovenia begins at the eastern edge, the Adriatic opens to the south, and Veneto meets the western plain.