The great Roman offal pasta: rigatoni in a slow tomato sauce with rings of milk-fed veal pajata and Pecorino Romano.

Pasta alla Gricia (Italian Roman Pasta with Guanciale and Pecorino) Gricia is the Roman pasta with nothing to hide behind. No tomato to cover a clumsy emulsion, no egg to soften a hard cheese, no garlic to supply a flavour the pork should be giving. Four things go in the pan: guanciale, Pecorino Romano, black pepper and the water the pasta cooked in. Everything the dish tastes of comes out of how those four are handled. What separates a good plate from a poor one is temperatu

Bucatini all'Amatriciana is a Lazio classic of guanciale, tomato, Pecorino Romano, and peperoncino. Slow rendering, concentrated tomato, and careful off-heat finishing produce a glossy sauce without onion, garlic, or cream.