Cinghiale in Umido alla Toscana (Tuscan Wild Boar in Umido) Cinghiale in umido is what Tuscan hunting families cook the week after the drive, and it contains one instruction that sounds like sabotage. After the meat has spent a night in red wine, you put it in cold water, bring it to the boil, skim the grey foam that rises, and then throw that water down the sink. Liquid that smells of wine and juniper and meat, gone, on purpose. Every instinct a cook has says the opposite. W

A slow cooked wild boar ragù with red wine, aromatics, herbs and deep Tuscan style richness.

Pappardelle with Wild Boar, Cannonau and Dark Chocolate (Pappardelle al Cinghiale, Cannonau e Cioccolato Fondente) This is the Sardinian reading of wild boar ragu, and it is a different animal from the Tuscan one in every sense. The boar is the island subspecies, smaller and leaner than its mainland cousin. The wine is Cannonau, not Chianti. And the finishing note is a small piece of bitter chocolate stirred in off the heat, a Spanish inheritance rather than an Italian invent