Triglia di Scoglio con Zafferano, Porri e Bottarga (Italian Crispy Red Mullet with Saffron, Braised Leeks and Bottarga) This dish has one ambition and everything else serves it: the skin of the red mullet has to shatter. Triglia di scoglio carries a thin, brilliantly coloured skin that crisps better than almost any Mediterranean fish, and it is also the first thing a cook ruins, usually by letting a damp fillet reach the pan. Under that skin sits a very delicate fish. The fle