A bright vegan sauce of mixed woodland berries: a smooth strained coulis with whole fresh berries, lemon and a touch of mint.

Sorbetto al Lampone (Italian Raspberry Sorbet) Sorbetto al lampone is the most fragile of the Italian fruit sorbets and the most rewarding. Raspberries give up almost nothing to heat, so this one is built entirely cold, and what reaches the glass is the flavour of the raw fruit with nothing standing between it and the spoon. There is no cream here, no egg and no stabilizer bought in a packet. The raspberry supplies its own, and the whole method exists to keep that intact. Yie

Sorbetto ai Frutti di Bosco (Italian Mixed Berry Sorbet) Frutti di bosco is not one fruit but a basket, and a sorbet made from it tastes of whatever the wood gave up that week. Blackberry brings depth, raspberry brings perfume, blueberry brings colour and weight, redcurrant brings the sharp edge that keeps the other three honest. What follows is a mountain dessert built on control rather than improvisation: a short cooked syrup, a very brief blend, two passes through fine mes