Polenta con Funghi e Castelmagno (Italian Polenta with Wild Mushrooms and Castelmagno)

Polenta con Funghi e Castelmagno (Italian Polenta with Wild Mushrooms and Castelmagno)

Traditional Piedmontese Polenta with Porcini, Wild Mushrooms and Castelmagno DOP

By Chef Gianluca Deiana

Polenta con Funghi e Castelmagno is a dish that explains Piemonte without needing many words.

Corn, mountain cheese, wild mushrooms, butter, herbs, and patience create something profoundly satisfying. The dish is rustic in origin, but when every component is treated correctly it becomes elegant enough for a serious restaurant menu.

The protagonist alongside the mushrooms is Castelmagno DOP, one of Piemonte’s most distinctive cheeses. Produced in the province of Cuneo, Castelmagno develops a complex character that can move from milky and moderately delicate when younger toward increasingly intense, savory, earthy, and sometimes naturally blue veined characteristics as it matures.

Combined with creamy polenta and porcini mushrooms, it creates an extraordinary vegetarian dish with enough richness and umami to stand beside an important Piedmontese red wine.

Recipe Information

Cuisine: Italian, Piedmontese

Region: Piemonte

Course: Primo or Main Course

Servings: 4

Preparation Time: 25 minutes

Cooking Time: approximately 50 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Calories: approximately 620 kcal per serving

Ingredients

For the Polenta

250 g stone ground Italian polenta

1.25 liters water

10 g fine sea salt

40 g unsalted butter

50 g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated

Freshly ground black pepper

For the Wild Mushrooms

300 g fresh porcini mushrooms

200 g mixed wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, or cremini

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

30 g unsalted butter

1 garlic clove, lightly crushed

2 sprigs fresh thyme

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

60 ml dry white wine

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley

For the Castelmagno Fonduta

180 g Castelmagno DOP

150 ml whole milk

80 ml heavy cream

15 g unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

For Finishing

50 g Castelmagno DOP, broken into small irregular pieces

Extra virgin olive oil

Fresh thyme leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

Preparing the Mushrooms

Mushrooms contain a tremendous amount of water, and controlling that moisture is fundamental.

Clean the porcini carefully with a small brush or slightly damp cloth.

Avoid soaking them in water.

Trim the base of the stems and remove any damaged portions.

Cut the porcini into substantial slices approximately ¼ inch, 6 mm thick.

Clean the remaining mushrooms and cut larger specimens into pieces while leaving smaller ones whole.

Keeping different sizes and shapes creates a more natural final presentation.

Cooking the Polenta

Bring the water to a boil in a heavy saucepan.

Add the salt.

Slowly rain the polenta into the water while whisking continuously.

This prevents lumps from forming.

Once all the polenta has been incorporated, reduce the heat to low.

Cook according to the variety you are using. Traditional stone ground polenta generally requires approximately 40 to 50 minutes.

Stir frequently with a wooden spoon.

As the polenta cooks, the cornmeal hydrates and gradually develops a creamy texture and deeper corn flavor.

If it becomes excessively thick before it is completely cooked, add a small amount of hot water.

Never allow the bottom to scorch.

Finishing the Polenta

When the grains are completely tender, remove the saucepan from the heat.

Add the butter.

Add the Parmigiano Reggiano.

Season with freshly ground black pepper.

Stir vigorously until completely incorporated.

The final polenta should be soft, flowing, and creamy.

It should slowly spread when spooned onto a plate.

If it stands like a solid block, it is too thick.

Add a little hot water if necessary to restore the correct consistency.

Cover and keep warm.

Cooking the Porcini and Wild Mushrooms

Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat.

Add the extra virgin olive oil.

Add the mushrooms in a single layer.

Do not overcrowd the pan.

If necessary, cook them in two batches.

Allow the mushrooms to develop color before moving them excessively.

After approximately 2 minutes, toss them.

Continue cooking until the mushrooms become deeply golden.

Add the butter, crushed garlic, and thyme.

Allow the butter to foam around the mushrooms.

Tilt the pan slightly and spoon the aromatic butter repeatedly over the mushrooms.

Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Deglazing

Increase the heat slightly.

Add the white wine.

Allow it to reduce almost completely.

The wine should provide acidity and lift without leaving liquid in the bottom of the pan.

Remove the garlic and thyme sprigs.

Add the chopped parsley.

Taste and adjust the seasoning.

The mushrooms should remain juicy inside while developing genuine caramelization on their exterior.

Keep warm.

Preparing the Castelmagno Fonduta

Crumble the Castelmagno into small pieces.

Place the milk and cream in a small saucepan.

Heat gently.

Do not boil.

Add the Castelmagno gradually while stirring continuously.

Keep the temperature low.

Allow the cheese to melt slowly into the dairy.

Add the butter.

Continue stirring until the sauce becomes smooth and lightly creamy.

Finish with freshly ground black pepper.

Do not add salt until you have tasted the fonduta.

Castelmagno can already provide substantial salinity.

Controlling the Fonduta

This sauce should not resemble a heavy American style cheese sauce.

It should remain fluid enough to move naturally around the polenta.

If it becomes too thick, add a tablespoon of warm milk.

If necessary, pass it through a fine sieve for an exceptionally smooth restaurant presentation.

Keep the fonduta warm but never allow it to boil.

Excessive heat can cause the cheese proteins and fat to separate.

Bringing the Dish Together

Check the polenta immediately before plating.

If it has thickened while standing, add a small amount of hot water and stir vigorously.

Taste once more for seasoning.

Check the mushrooms.

They should still be hot and glossy.

Warm the Castelmagno fonduta gently if necessary.

All three components should arrive at the plate hot.

Plating

Use a warm, wide shallow bowl.

Spoon a generous portion of creamy polenta into the center.

Allow it to spread naturally.

Arrange the sautéed porcini and wild mushrooms over the polenta.

Do not completely cover it.

You should still see the beautiful golden corn underneath.

Spoon the warm Castelmagno fonduta around and partially over the mushrooms.

Finish with several small irregular pieces of Castelmagno.

Add a few fresh thyme leaves.

Finish with freshly ground black pepper and a few drops of excellent extra virgin olive oil.

Keep the presentation natural.

This dish should look luxurious without losing its connection to the mountains of Piemonte.

Chef Gianluca's Technique Notes

Use traditional polenta when possible. Instant polenta saves time, but long cooked stone ground cornmeal develops significantly more flavor and texture.

Keep the polenta soft. Polenta continues thickening after cooking, so finish it slightly looser than you think necessary.

Never overcrowd mushrooms. Too many mushrooms in one pan release moisture faster than it can evaporate, causing them to steam instead of caramelize.

Salt mushrooms after they begin browning. Adding salt immediately encourages moisture release.

Use several mushroom varieties. Porcini provide depth while other mushrooms introduce different textures and aromas.

Do not boil Castelmagno fonduta. Gentle heat preserves the emulsion.

Do not bury the dish in cheese. Castelmagno is powerful. It should connect the mushrooms and polenta rather than overwhelm them.

Using Dried Porcini

When fresh porcini are unavailable, dried porcini can add extraordinary depth.

Use approximately 30 g dried porcini.

Cover them with warm water and allow them to rehydrate for approximately 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove the mushrooms carefully.

Strain the soaking liquid through a very fine sieve or coffee filter to remove any sand.

Add a small quantity of this porcini liquid to the mushrooms during cooking.

You can also replace part of the water used for the polenta with strained porcini liquid.

Use restraint.

The objective is deeper mushroom flavor, not brown mushroom flavored polenta.

Optional White Truffle Variation

During white truffle season, this dish can become extraordinary with Tartufo Bianco d'Alba.

If using genuine white truffle, simplify the preparation slightly.

Reduce the quantity of Castelmagno.

Avoid excessive garlic.

Plate the polenta, mushrooms, and restrained fonduta first.

Then shave the white truffle directly over the hot dish at the table.

Never cook the truffle.

Wine Pairing

Barolo DOCG

Barolo is an exceptional pairing.

This dish contains several elements that work naturally with Nebbiolo.

The mushrooms provide earthiness and umami.

Castelmagno contributes fat, salt, and intensity.

Polenta creates richness and softness.

Together they provide enough structure to handle Barolo's acidity and tannins without requiring meat.

A mature Barolo can be particularly impressive because its aromas of dried flowers, forest floor, herbs, spice, leather, and earth echo the mushroom character beautifully.

Barbaresco DOCG

Barbaresco is equally compelling when the dish is prepared with a lighter hand.

Use slightly less Castelmagno and allow the porcini to become the principal flavor.

The greater aromatic delicacy of the combination can work beautifully with an elegant Barbaresco.

Chef Gianluca's Recommendation

The secret to this dish is separation before integration.

The polenta must taste deeply of corn.

The mushrooms must taste roasted, earthy, and concentrated.

The Castelmagno must retain its unmistakable character.

Only at the final moment should these components meet.

Do not cook everything together until it becomes an indistinguishable mixture.

Prepare each element correctly, bring them together on a warm plate, and allow the diner to experience different proportions of mushroom, polenta, cheese, and wine with every bite.

That is what transforms Polenta con Funghi e Castelmagno from mountain comfort food into a serious expression of Piedmontese cuisine.

Chef Gianluca Deiana

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