Ghemme

Ghemme

By Master Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis

1. History

Ghemme is one of Piedmont’s lesser-known yet highly respected DOCG wines, originating from the hills around the town of Ghemme in the northern part of the region. Its production dates back centuries, and the wine has long been cherished for its refined structure and complexity. Made primarily from Nebbiolo (known locally as Spanna), often with small additions of Vespolina or Uva Rara, Ghemme benefits from the unique microclimate created by the nearby Alps and the region’s sandy, clay-rich soils. These conditions yield a Nebbiolo-based wine that is both powerful and elegant, with a remarkable capacity to age. While it shares similarities with Barolo and Barbaresco, Ghemme is often noted for its finesse, bright acidity, and earthy, herbal undertones.

2. Pairing

Ghemme’s vibrant acidity, structured tannins, and complex flavors make it an excellent companion to a range of traditional northern Italian dishes.

• Agnolotti del Plin with Veal Jus: The wine’s earthy, floral notes and firm structure complement the savory filling and rich sauce of these delicate Piedmontese pasta pockets.

• Wild Mushroom Risotto: Ghemme’s umami undertones and bright cherry flavors enhance the creamy, earthy richness of a porcini-based risotto.

• Roast Game Birds (Quail or Pheasant): Its herbal and red fruit profile pairs beautifully with the lean, gamey flavors of roasted birds, especially when seasoned with rosemary or thyme.

• Aged Taleggio or Gorgonzola: These cheeses’ intense, creamy character contrasts perfectly with Ghemme’s bright acidity and firm tannins, creating a balanced and sophisticated pairing.

• Braised Lamb or Ossobuco: The wine’s depth and acidity cut through the richness of slow-cooked lamb shanks or veal ossobuco, while its subtle spice enhances the dish’s aromatic herbs.

3. The Top Wineries

• Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo: A renowned producer that focuses on crafting elegant, age-worthy Ghemme wines that express the region’s unique terroir.

• Torraccia del Piantavigna: Known for their meticulous vineyard practices and careful winemaking, this winery produces Ghemme with refined complexity and balance.

• Mazzoni: A smaller estate dedicated to traditional methods, creating authentic Ghemme wines that highlight the purity and character of Nebbiolo from the region.

4. The Notes of Master Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis

Ghemme is a wine that holds a special place in my heart for its understated elegance and ability to pair with both rustic and refined dishes. It offers all the complexity and nuance of Nebbiolo while maintaining a unique identity—vibrant, herbal, and earthy, with a freshness that makes it incredibly versatile. I admire how Ghemme reflects its Alpine-influenced terroir, showing off the natural beauty of northern Piedmont’s rolling hills. For me, opening a bottle of Ghemme is like discovering a hidden gem, a wine that quietly yet confidently takes its place among Italy’s finest.

Wine Pairing

Choose an Italian wine with enough acidity to refresh the palate and enough body to match the richness of the dish. Delicate recipes generally benefit from lighter, fresher wines, while roasted, braised, aged-cheese, or deeply savory preparations can support more structured selections. Serve the wine at the correct temperature and avoid pairings that overpower the principal ingredient.

Chef Gianluca’s Recommendation

For the best result, prioritize ingredient quality and execute the basic technique cleanly before adding decorative touches. The finished recipe should taste balanced first; presentation comes second. Make the final adjustment for salt, acidity, sweetness, or texture immediately before service, then serve without unnecessary delay.

Chef Gianluca Deiana