Tagliatelle di Castagne al Ragù di Cinghiale (Italian Chestnut Tagliatelle with Wild Boar Ragù)

Tagliatelle di Castagne al Ragù di Cinghiale (Italian Chestnut Tagliatelle with Wild Boar Ragù)

Serves 4. Preparation 50 minutes plus marinating. Cooking 2 hours 45 minutes. Difficulty Advanced.

Chestnut flour and wild boar belong naturally to the cooking traditions of the Italian Apennines and other wooded areas where chestnuts were once a staple rather than a luxury ingredient. In this dish, chestnut flour gives fresh tagliatelle a restrained sweetness and earthy aroma, while a slowly braised wild boar ragù provides savory depth, acidity and structure.

Ingredients

For the pasta: 1 3/4 cups (220 g) Italian 00 flour; 3/4 cup (90 g) chestnut flour; 3 large eggs; 1 large egg yolk; 1 tsp (5 ml) extra virgin olive oil; a pinch of fine sea salt; 00 flour or semolina for dusting. For the marinade: 1 1/2 lb (680 g) wild boar shoulder or leg; 1 cup (240 ml) dry red wine; 1 small carrot; 1 celery stalk; 1/2 small onion; 1 garlic clove; 1 rosemary sprig; 2 thyme sprigs; 2 juniper berries; 1 bay leaf. For the ragù: 2 tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil; 1 small onion; 1 small carrot; 1 celery stalk; 1 garlic clove; 2 tbsp (30 g) tomato paste; 1 cup (240 ml) dry red wine; 1 cup (240 ml) crushed San Marzano tomatoes; 1 1/2 to 2 cups (360 to 480 ml) light beef or game stock; rosemary; bay leaf; juniper; kosher salt and black pepper. To finish: 1/2 cup (50 g) Parmigiano Reggiano; 1 tbsp (14 g) cold unsalted butter; pasta cooking water; fresh parsley; extra virgin olive oil.

Preparation

Place the wild boar in a nonreactive container with the wine, roughly chopped carrot, celery and onion, garlic, rosemary, thyme, juniper and bay leaf. Cover and refrigerate for about 8 hours. Remove the meat, pat it completely dry and discard the marinade vegetables and aromatics.

Combine the 00 flour and chestnut flour on a clean work surface. Make a well, add the eggs, yolk, olive oil and salt, then gradually incorporate the flour. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and pliable. Because chestnut flour contains no gluten, the dough will be slightly more delicate than standard egg pasta. Wrap tightly and rest for 30 to 45 minutes.

Cut the marinated wild boar into small pieces with a knife. Heat a heavy Dutch oven over medium high heat and brown the meat in small batches in the olive oil. Do not crowd the pot. Transfer the browned meat to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add finely diced onion, carrot and celery and cook slowly for about 8 minutes until tender and lightly caramelized. Add garlic and cook briefly. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for about 2 minutes until it darkens slightly.

Return the wild boar to the pot. Add the red wine and scrape the bottom thoroughly. Reduce the wine by about two thirds. Add the tomatoes, 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) stock and the aromatics. Bring to a very gentle simmer and cook partially covered for about 2 hours. Add more stock only as needed. The meat should become tender while the sauce remains concentrated.

Divide the pasta dough into four pieces and keep unused portions covered. Pass each piece through a pasta machine, gradually reducing the thickness. Do not roll chestnut dough excessively thin. Cut into ribbons about 1/4 inch (6 mm) wide and arrange loosely on a floured tray.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the fresh tagliatelle for about 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer directly into a wide pan containing enough ragù to coat the pasta. Add a small amount of pasta water and finish cooking for about 1 minute.

Professional Technique

Remove the pan from the heat and add cold butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. Toss gently until the sauce becomes glossy and clings to every ribbon. The finished pan should not contain a puddle of watery sauce.

Keep chestnut flour at approximately 25 to 30 percent of the total flour. At that level the pasta has a clear chestnut identity while the wheat flour still provides enough gluten structure for rolling and cooking. Higher percentages can make the pasta brittle and excessively sweet.

Chef Tips

Knife cutting the wild boar gives the ragù a more refined texture than leaving large stew pieces. Brown the meat in several batches to develop deep flavor. Keep the braise barely simmering. The tomato should support the meat and wine rather than dominate the sauce.

Common Mistakes

Do not use chestnut flour alone for the pasta. Do not skip drying the marinated meat before browning. Do not overcrowd the pot. Do not boil the ragù aggressively. Do not overcook the fresh tagliatelle, and do not finish the dish with excessive grated cheese that hides the wild boar and chestnut flavors.

Plating

Use a warm wide ceramic bowl. Twirl the tagliatelle into a loose nest in the center and spoon a small amount of additional ragù over the pasta. Finish with finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano, a few small parsley leaves, black pepper and a restrained drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Wine Pairing

Chianti Classico Riserva is a natural partner because its acidity, savory character and firm tannins work with wild boar while remaining balanced against the natural sweetness of chestnut pasta. A mature Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is an excellent alternative when a deeper and more powerful pairing is desired.

Storage and Reheating

The ragù can be refrigerated for up to 3 days and often improves after resting overnight. It can also be frozen for up to 2 months. Fresh tagliatelle should be cooked close to service. Reheat the ragù slowly with a small amount of stock if necessary, then cook and finish the pasta fresh.

Nutrition

Approximate nutrition per serving: 760 calories, 48 g protein, 78 g carbohydrates, 27 g fat, 6 g fiber and 690 mg sodium. Values vary according to the wild boar cut, sauce reduction and amount of cheese used.