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Olive Ripiene di Pollo: Italian Stuffed Cerignola Olives by Chef Marco Porceddu

  • Oct 26, 2019
  • 11 min read

Updated: 2 days ago

Olive Ripiene di Pollo: Italian Stuffed Cerignola Olives by Chef Marco Porceddu
Olive Ripiene di Pollo: Italian Stuffed Cerignola Olives by Chef Marco Porceddu

Olive Ripiene di Pollo: Italian Stuffed Cerignola Olives by Chef Marco Porceddu


Story of the Dish

Olive ripiene di pollo turn large Cerignola olives into a warm Italian aperitivo with a crisp shell and savory center. Chef Marco Porceddu prepares a filling of chicken, carrot, celery, onion, and Parmigiano Reggiano, shapes it into the space left by the pit, then coats each olive with flour, egg, and semolina before frying.

The recipe depends on contrast. Cerignola olives are broad, firm, and fruity, with enough flesh to surround the filling. Chicken and vegetables create a tender center, aged cheese supplies savoriness, and semolina forms a golden exterior. The olives should remain recognizable rather than disappearing beneath a thick coat.

This recipe serves four as an appetizer and makes about 20 stuffed olives. Allow about one hour and fifteen minutes, including cooking and cooling the filling. The chicken must be completely cooked before processing, and the assembled olives are fried only to heat the center and crisp the coating.

Servings and Timing

Servings: 4. Prep Time: about 25 minutes. Cook Time varies with the cut and technique described above. Total Time: follow the doneness and resting cues in the method rather than the clock alone.

Ingredients for the Filling

1 large boneless skinless chicken breast, about 300 grams

One quarter cup finely diced carrot

One quarter cup finely diced celery

One quarter cup finely diced white onion

One half cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons chicken broth, only if needed

Ingredients for the Olives and Coating

20 large whole Cerignola olives

One half cup Italian type 00 flour or all purpose flour

3 large eggs

1 cup fine durum wheat semolina

Fine sea salt

1 liter light olive oil or another neutral frying oil

Using the Remaining Ingredients

Extra chicken filling can become small patties. Chill, shape, coat, and cook until hot, or add it to a tomato sauce for pasta. Do not return filling that has contacted raw egg to the clean storage container.

Broken olives can be chopped into a salad with orange, fennel, and parsley. Semolina left in the breading bowl and exposed to egg or food must be discarded. Never return used breading ingredients to their original packages.

Makes About 20 Stuffed Olives

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Cooling time: 15 minutes

Difficulty: Moderate

Equipment

Small sharp paring knife

Heavy skillet

Food processor

Three shallow bowls

Deep heavy pot

Frying thermometer

Wire rack

Choosing Cerignola Olives

Cerignola olives come from Puglia and are known for their exceptional size and firm flesh. Green olives offer a bright, buttery flavor and hold their shape well. Choose whole olives rather than previously pitted ones because the spiral cutting method preserves a broad piece of flesh around the stuffing.

Taste one before beginning. Brines vary widely in salt and acidity. If the olives are aggressively salty, rinse them and soak them in cold water for 15 to 30 minutes, then drain and dry. Avoid very soft fruit, which can tear during pitting.

Count a few extra olives beyond the desired yield. A first attempt at spiral pitting may split one or two, and irregular specimens can be reserved for another dish. Keep the best, most evenly shaped olives for stuffing.

Cooking the Chicken Filling

Cut the chicken into pieces about 2 centimeters wide. Keep raw chicken separate from the vegetables and wash the board, knife, hands, and surrounding surfaces after cutting it. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat.

Add the carrot, celery, and onion with a small pinch of salt. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring, until the vegetables soften without strong browning. Add the chicken and black pepper. Continue cooking, turning the pieces so all sides contact the pan.

Cook until the thickest piece reaches 165 degrees Fahrenheit. This usually takes 7 to 10 minutes according to size. Color alone is not a dependable test. Transfer the mixture to a clean plate and let it cool for 15 minutes. Do not put hot food directly into a closed processor bowl.

Processing the Filling

Place the cooled chicken and vegetables in a food processor. Add Parmigiano Reggiano and pulse several times. Stop and scrape the bowl, then pulse until the mixture is finely chopped and holds together when pressed.

Do not run the machine continuously until the chicken becomes paste. Small texture makes the filling more appealing. If the mixture crumbles, add chicken broth one teaspoon at a time. If it is soft, chill it for 15 minutes rather than adding excessive cheese.

Taste a small amount. The chicken is fully cooked, so seasoning can be adjusted safely. Remember that olives are salty and the coating will receive a final pinch of salt. The filling should taste savory but restrained.

Spiral Pitting the Olives

Dry the olives thoroughly. Hold one on a stable board and place the tip of a small sharp knife near one end. Cut around the pit in a continuous spiral, turning the olive beneath the blade. The goal is one long curved strip of flesh, similar to peeling an apple.

Continue until the pit can be lifted away and the olive opens into a spiral. Work slowly and keep fingertips behind the blade. If an olive splits into two large pieces, it can still be wrapped around the filling, but an intact spiral creates the neatest result.

A previously pitted Cerignola olive can be filled through its opening when spiral cutting is uncomfortable. The presentation will be simpler and the cavity smaller, but safety and control are more important than a decorative shape.

Stuffing and Shaping

Take about 2 teaspoons of filling and roll it into an oval. Wrap the olive spiral around it, following the original curve. Press gently so the flesh touches the filling without cracking. Shape the ends into a compact olive form.

Repeat with the remaining olives and arrange them on a tray. If the filling becomes warm or sticky, refrigerate both hands and tray briefly. Consistent size helps the olives fry evenly and creates a balanced ratio of fruit to chicken.

Setting Up the Coating

Place flour in the first shallow bowl. Beat the eggs in the second. Put semolina in the third. This separate sequence keeps the coating clean and even. Use one hand for flour and semolina and the other for egg whenever possible.

Roll each stuffed olive lightly in flour and shake off excess. Coat it in egg, allow surplus to drip away, then roll it in semolina. Press gently to cover seams and exposed filling. The layer should be complete but thin.

Set coated olives on a clean tray and refrigerate for 15 minutes. This short rest firms the filling and helps the coating adhere. Do not leave raw egg coated food at room temperature for an extended period.

Heating the Oil Safely

Pour frying oil into a deep heavy pot, filling it no more than halfway. Heat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Attach the thermometer where its tip does not touch the bottom. Turn the pot handle inward and keep a fitted metal lid nearby.

The olives must be dry beneath the coating because water causes hot oil to spit. Keep children and pets away and never leave the pot unattended. If the oil ignites, turn off the heat and cover the pot. Never use water.

Frying the Stuffed Olives

Lower 4 or 5 olives into the oil with a metal spider. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, turning, until evenly golden. The filling is already cooked, so prolonged frying is unnecessary. Maintain the oil between 340 and 355 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lift the olives onto a wire rack set over a tray. Season very lightly while hot. Allow the oil to return to temperature before adding the next batch. Crowding lowers heat and produces a greasy coating.

Serving

Let the olives rest for 3 to 5 minutes before serving because the center will be extremely hot. Arrange them on a warm platter with small napkins or picks. A squeeze of lemon is optional, but add it only at the table because moisture softens the crust.

Serve four or five olives per person as an aperitivo. Bitter leaves, pickled vegetables, or a simple tomato salad provide refreshing contrast. Avoid a heavy sauce that hides the character of the Cerignola olive.

Relationship to Olive Ascolane

Stuffed fried olives also have a celebrated tradition in Ascoli Piceno in the Marche. Authentic olive all’Ascolana follows its own regional method and typically uses Ascolana olives with a seasoned mixture of several meats. Chef Marco Porceddu’s chicken filled Cerignola version is a distinct creative preparation and should be enjoyed under its own name.

Mortadella can enrich this filling, but adding it alone does not transform the dish into the Marche classic. If using it as a variation, add a modest finely chopped quantity and reduce salt, since both mortadella and Parmigiano Reggiano are seasoned.

Chef’s Perspective

Semolina versus Breadcrumbs

Fine semolina gives the coating a firm, sandy crispness and reinforces the durum wheat character found throughout southern Italian cooking. Breadcrumbs produce a lighter, more familiar crust. Chef Marco’s version uses semolina, which suits the broad, juicy flesh of Cerignola olives and keeps the exterior clearly defined.

Use fine semolina rather than coarse grains. Coarse semolina can leave hard points and may fall away during frying. If the product feels rough between the fingers, pulse it briefly in a clean processor or replace half with fine breadcrumbs. Do not use cooked semolina or instant polenta.

Testing One Olive

Fry one test olive before committing the full batch. Let it rest for several minutes, then cut it open. Confirm that the coating is crisp, the olive remains distinct, the filling is hot, and the seasoning is balanced. This test reveals issues that cannot be seen from the outside.

If the filling separates from the olive, make the remaining portions slightly smaller and press the spiral more firmly. If the crust is too thick, remove more flour and egg during the breading sequence. If the olive tastes excessively salty, serve the batch with unseasoned bitter greens and omit final salt.

A Baked Variation

Frying creates the crispest result, but the olives can be baked for a different texture. After coating, place them on a rack over a sheet pan and mist or brush lightly with olive oil. Bake at 425 degrees Fahrenheit, turning once, until golden and hot throughout, usually 15 to 20 minutes.

Baked semolina remains more granular and less evenly colored than fried semolina. Replacing half with fine breadcrumbs improves the baked variation. This method should be presented as an alternative, not as an exact duplicate of the fried original.

Scaling for a Party

For 40 olives, double the ingredients but cook chicken in two batches so it browns and reaches a safe temperature evenly. Process each batch separately, then combine and check seasoning. Pitting and stuffing can be completed with another person at a clean table.

Fry in small batches regardless of the total quantity. Hold finished olives uncovered on racks in a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven for no more than 15 minutes. Covering traps steam, while prolonged holding dries the chicken filling.

Place a small sign on the serving platter identifying chicken, dairy, egg, wheat, and olive. Guests often assume stuffed olives contain mixed meat, so clear identification is useful at a gathering.

A Complete Aperitivo

Build the aperitivo around contrast. Offer warm stuffed olives, raw fennel, roasted peppers, and a small dish of plain nuts. Keep additional salty foods limited because Cerignola olives and cheese already provide intensity.

Bring the olives out in two waves rather than piling every piece on one platter. The second batch remains hot and crisp, and guests can appreciate the work in each bite. A small warm plate is better than a large tray that cools before it is finished.

Knife Safety during Pitting

Spiral cutting is the most demanding stage. Use a sharp knife because a dull blade requires dangerous pressure. Work on the board rather than holding the olive high in the air. Turn the fruit with the noncutting hand and direct the blade away from fingertips.

Anyone uncomfortable with the movement should choose large commercially pitted olives. A slightly less dramatic shape is a sensible exchange for control. The flavor, filling, breading, and frying remain the same.

Temperature after Frying

Because the chicken is cooked before stuffing, frying is not responsible for making raw meat safe. Its job is reheating and crisping. Still, a stuffed olive taken from a very cold refrigerator can remain cool inside if the exterior colors too quickly. The test olive should be steaming at the center.

If necessary, let the tray stand for 5 minutes while oil heats, but do not leave it out longer than needed. Another solution is to fry at 340 degrees Fahrenheit for a slightly longer time. This gives heat time to travel inward while protecting the crust from excessive color.

Serve after a brief rest and warn guests that the center is hot. Small fried foods can trap heat much longer than their exterior suggests.

Serving from the Oven

When several batches are needed, place a rack over a sheet pan in a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven. Transfer fried olives to the rack after their initial rest. Keep them uncovered and hold them no longer than 15 minutes. Longer warming dries chicken and darkens the semolina.

Do not mix newly fried olives with older ones in a deep bowl. Steam and weight soften the first batch. Serve in shallow layers and replenish the platter as guests eat.

Place one olive on each small plate before circulating a full platter when the center is especially hot. This encourages a short cooling interval and helps guests understand that the food has just left the fryer.

Chef Marco Porceddu builds these stuffed olives as compact, complete bites. Every stage supports the next: vegetables soften before chicken cooks, filling cools before processing, olives are shaped before breading, and the coating rests before frying.

The finished olive should announce Puglia through Cerignola fruit while expressing the chef’s own filling. Serve it warm, crisp, and simple, with enough time after frying for guests to enjoy the center safely.


Recipe Information

Servings: 4. Prep Time: about 25 minutes. Cook Time varies with the cut and technique described above. Total Time: follow the doneness and resting cues in the method rather than the clock alone.

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Difficulty: Moderate


Professional Technique

Bring the meat to an appropriate working temperature, dry the surface before searing, and respect the resting period after cooking. Use a thermometer when the cut benefits from precise doneness. Braised preparations should simmer gently rather than boil, while quick-cooking cuts should be removed from heat before carryover cooking pushes them past the target.


Mistakes to Avoid

A loose filling escapes during frying. Process only until cohesive, add liquid sparingly, and chill before shaping. An olive that is too soft cannot support the center, so select firm fruit.

A heavy coating comes from leaving too much flour or egg on the surface. Shake and drain at each stage. If semolina falls away, the olive may be wet or the coated pieces may not have rested.

Greasy olives indicate cool oil or an overcrowded pot. Dark coating with a cool center indicates excessive heat. A thermometer and small batches solve both problems.


Chef Gianluca’s Recommendation

For the best result, prioritize ingredient quality and execute the basic technique cleanly before adding decorative touches. The finished recipe should taste balanced first; presentation comes second. Make the final adjustment for salt, acidity, sweetness, or texture immediately before service, then serve without unnecessary delay.


Wine Pairing

Montepulciano offers savory fruit that works with chicken, olive, and cheese. Sparkling Lambrusco refreshes the palate between fried bites. Franciacorta provides crisp acidity and fine bubbles for a more formal aperitivo. Serve sparkling wine well chilled but allow red wine to remain slightly cool.


Nutrition per Serving

Approximate nutrition per serving: 560 calories, 1.48 oz protein, 0.85 oz carbohydrates, 1.09 oz fat, 0.35 oz saturated fat, 0.14 oz fiber, 0.21 oz sugars, 760 mg sodium, and 135 mg cholesterol. Values vary with the cut of meat and serving size.

Preparing Ahead and Storage

The cooked filling can be prepared one day ahead, cooled promptly, covered, and refrigerated. Stuffed unbreaded olives can be assembled several hours ahead. Bread them shortly before cooking and keep them refrigerated.

Refrigerate leftovers within two hours and enjoy them within two days. Reheat on a rack in a 375 degree Fahrenheit oven until the center is hot. A microwave softens the crust. Do not refry cooled olives, since the coating may become overly dark before the center warms.


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