Fesillsüppu di Issime (Italian Walser Bean and Rice Soup)

2 days ago
3 min read

Updated: 8 hours ago

Fesillsüppu di Issime (Italian Walser Bean and Rice Soup)

Story of the Dish

Fesillsüppu di Issime belongs to the practical food tradition of the Walser communities of the upper Lys Valley in Valle d’Aosta. Rice, borlotti beans, broth and mountain cheese create a nourishing soup suited to cold weather and demanding work. Its appeal comes from the balance between starch, legumes and dairy rather than from richness for its own sake.

The soup should remain clearly recognizable as a bean and rice preparation. The beans need to stay intact, the rice should thicken the broth without turning the pot into risotto, and the cheese should soften the edges of the dish without masking the earthy flavor of the legumes. This is mountain cooking in its most direct form: economical ingredients, careful timing and a generous final texture.

For a professional result, use well cooked but intact borlotti beans, keep the broth hot while the rice cooks, and add the toma or Fontina only at the end. The finished soup should be spoonable, creamy from natural starch and dairy, but never gluey.

Ingredients

Serves 4

1 1/2 cups cooked borlotti beans (255 g)
3/4 cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice (150 g)
6 cups light beef or vegetable broth (1.4 L)
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp unsalted butter (15 g)
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (15 ml)
5 oz toma or Fontina style mountain cheese, diced (140 g)
Fine sea salt, as needed
Freshly ground black pepper
1 small bay leaf, optional

Preparation

Heat the butter and olive oil in a heavy pot over medium low heat.
Add the onion and cook slowly until soft and translucent without browning.
Add the cooked borlotti beans and stir for 1 minute so they absorb the aromatic base.
Pour in the hot broth and add the bay leaf if using. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Add the rice and cook uncovered at a steady but gentle simmer, stirring from time to time.
When the rice is almost tender, check the consistency. Add a little more hot broth if the soup is becoming too thick.
Remove the bay leaf. Add the diced toma or Fontina and stir gently until the cheese begins to melt into the broth.
Taste before adding salt, finish with black pepper and serve immediately while the soup is creamy and fluid.

Professional Technique

The most important control is the rice. It must release enough starch to give the broth body but should not be stirred continuously like risotto. Gentle movement is enough. Add the cheese only after the rice is cooked so dairy does not scorch on the bottom of the pot.

If using canned beans, rinse them well and add them later so they do not break down. If using dried beans, cook them separately until tender before beginning the soup. The final seasoning should be adjusted only after the cheese is incorporated because mountain cheeses contribute significant salt.

Chef Tips

Use a flavorful but not overly salty broth.
Keep a small pan of hot broth nearby to adjust consistency at the end.
Do not overcook the beans; they should remain visible and intact.
Cut the cheese into small cubes so it melts evenly without clumping.
Serve immediately because the rice continues absorbing liquid as the soup stands.

Common Mistakes

Cooking the rice until it becomes mushy.
Using too little liquid and turning the soup into a dense risotto.
Adding cheese too early and allowing it to stick or split.
Oversalting before the cheese is added.
Holding the finished soup too long before service.

Wine Pairing

Fresh Alpine whites are the most natural partners for Fesillsüppu. Valle d’Aosta Petite Arvine DOC brings acidity and minerality, Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle DOC keeps the pairing light and mountain driven, while a delicate Valle d’Aosta Pinot Gris DOC works well when the cheese component is more pronounced. Serve the whites chilled, around 46 to 50°F (8 to 10°C).

Storage & Reheating

Cool leftovers quickly and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 days. The rice will continue absorbing broth, so the soup will become noticeably thicker in storage.

Reheat gently in a saucepan with additional hot broth or water, stirring only enough to loosen the texture. Avoid hard boiling, which can break the beans and make the cheese greasy.