Gnocchi di Susine (Italian Friulian Plum Gnocchi)

Traditional Italian Friulian Plum Gnocchi

Story of the Dish

Gnocchi di Susine, known around Trieste and parts of Friuli Venezia Giulia as gnocchi de susini, show the Central European side of Northeastern Italian cooking. The dish brings together the potato dumpling tradition of Italy with the fruit filled dumplings found across the former Austro Hungarian world. Their character is intentionally balanced between sweet and savory: tender potato dough surrounds a whole prune plum, while browned butter and toasted breadcrumbs provide richness and texture. The plum should soften enough to become jammy while retaining enough acidity to keep the dumpling from becoming dessert-like. In Friulian homes they can appear as a substantial first course or as a sweet leaning main preparation depending on family tradition.

Recipe Information

Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia. Difficulty: Intermediate. Servings: 4. Yield: about 12 gnocchi. Prep Time: 45 minutes. Cook Time: 35 minutes. Total Time: about 1 hour 20 minutes.

Ingredients

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

12 small firm Italian prune plums

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 cup fine dry breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons granulated sugar, for the breadcrumb finish

Pinch of cinnamon, optional for finishing

Preparation

1. Cook the potatoes whole in salted water until tender. Drain, peel while still warm and pass through a potato ricer onto a wide tray. Allow steam to escape for several minutes. 2. Add egg and salt, then work in only enough flour to create a soft dough that can be handled without sticking excessively. Do not knead like bread. 3. Cut each plum along one side and remove the pit without separating the fruit into two halves. Mix sugar and cinnamon and place a small amount inside every plum. 4. Divide the dough into 12 portions. Flatten one portion in your palm, place a filled plum in the center and close the dough completely around it. Roll gently to seal. 5. Bring a wide pot of salted water to a gentle boil. Lower the gnocchi in carefully and avoid crowding. Once they rise, continue cooking 3 to 4 minutes so the plum heats through. 6. Meanwhile melt the butter in a wide skillet. Add breadcrumbs and toast slowly until golden and fragrant. Stir in the remaining sugar and optional cinnamon. 7. Lift the cooked gnocchi with a slotted spoon directly into the breadcrumb pan. Add a spoonful of cooking water and roll gently until evenly coated. Serve hot.

Professional Technique

The potato is the main structural variable. Dry, floury potatoes require less added flour and produce a more tender dumpling. After ricing, allow excess steam to escape so moisture does not force you to add unnecessary flour. Handle the dough only until it comes together. The wrapping layer should be thin and uniform so the fruit heats through at the same time the dough cooks. Keep the poaching water at a steady but gentle boil; violent boiling can split the dumplings and wash away starch. The buttered breadcrumb coating should be toasted separately and remain loose rather than becoming greasy clumps.

Chef Tips

Choose small firm prune plums rather than large watery plums. Taste one plum before filling to judge acidity and sugar level. Use the minimum flour needed for handling. Chill shaped gnocchi for 10 to 15 minutes if the kitchen is very warm. Toast breadcrumbs slowly in butter so they become nutty rather than scorched.

Mistakes to Avoid

Do not use wet potatoes or mash them in a food processor. Do not knead the dough extensively. Do not overfill the center with sugar, which can liquefy and leak. Do not make the dough shell thick to compensate for poor sealing. Avoid hard boiling, which can break the dumplings. Do not drown the finished gnocchi in butter; the coating should be aromatic and crisp, not oily.

Wine Pairing

Friulano DOC: subtle almond notes and gentle freshness echo the breadcrumbs and potato. Malvasia Istriana: floral aromatics suit the plum without becoming too sweet. Ribolla Gialla: bright acidity keeps the butter finish lively. Picolit DOCG, served in a small pour: works when the dish is presented on the sweeter side. Ramandolo DOCG: a regional sweet wine with enough acidity to balance ripe plum.

Nutrition per Serving

Calories: approximately 520 kcal

Protein: 10 g

Carbohydrates: 78 g

Fat: 19 g

Saturated Fat: 11 g

Fiber: 7 g

Sugars: 18 g

Sodium: 420 mg

Cholesterol: 75 mg

Storage and Reheating

Shaped uncooked gnocchi can be refrigerated on a floured tray for several hours. For longer storage, freeze them individually, then transfer to a freezer bag and cook from frozen without thawing. Cooked leftovers are best within 1 day. Reheat gently in a skillet with a little butter and a spoonful of water, turning carefully so the dumplings warm through without tearing.

Regional Context and Dough Balance

Friuli Venezia Giulia has always been a culinary borderland, and gnocchi di susine are a perfect example of that identity. Potato dough, breadcrumbs and butter speak clearly to Italian home cooking, while the enclosed plum and cinnamon sugar show the influence of neighboring Central European kitchens. The dish works because no single element becomes dominant. The dough must remain savory and restrained, the plum should provide acidity and natural sweetness, and the breadcrumb finish should be toasted enough to contribute bitterness and nuttiness. When all three are balanced, the result can be served comfortably as a first course rather than tasting like a conventional dessert.

Potato Selection, Shaping and Service

Choose potatoes of similar size so they cook evenly. Waterlogged potatoes are the most common reason cooks add too much flour, so avoid cutting them before boiling unless necessary. Rice them while warm, spread them out, and let steam escape before adding egg. When shaping, flatten the dough evenly in the palm and keep the seam thin; thick overlaps create gummy spots. If the plums are unusually large, reduce the number of dumplings and increase the dough portion slightly rather than stretching the dough until it tears. Serve immediately after coating. As the gnocchi sit, steam migrates into the breadcrumb layer and removes the contrast between the soft dumpling and toasted exterior.

Advance Preparation

For restaurant or holiday service, shape the dumplings in advance and keep them on a lightly floured tray under refrigeration for several hours. Do not stack them. The breadcrumb mixture can also be toasted ahead and reheated gently in butter before service. If freezing, freeze the shaped gnocchi separately until hard, then bag them. Cook directly from frozen, allowing a few additional minutes after they rise. This approach protects the seal around the fruit and avoids thawing moisture softening the potato dough.

Plum Ripeness and Final Balance

The plum should be ripe enough to soften during poaching but firm enough to survive shaping. Very ripe fruit can split and release juice into the dough, while underripe fruit remains hard and sour in the center. Adjust the cinnamon sugar according to the fruit rather than using sweetness mechanically. After coating, taste one complete dumpling with breadcrumb, butter and plum before adding any additional sugar. The finished dish should have a savory potato identity first, a warm fruit center second and a lightly sweet toasted finish rather than tasting like a plated dessert.

Breadcrumb Finish and Serving Temperature

The breadcrumb finish deserves the same attention as the dumpling. Use fine dry breadcrumbs rather than coarse panko so the coating adheres evenly and creates a delicate toasted layer. Melt the butter over medium low heat, add the crumbs and stir continuously until the color changes from pale beige to an even golden brown. Remove from direct heat before adding sugar so the crystals do not caramelize unevenly. The gnocchi should go from the poaching water directly into this mixture while still hot and moist. A spoonful of cooking water helps the crumbs cling without requiring additional butter. Serve on warm plates so the center stays hot enough for the plum aroma to open fully.

Seasonal Service and Final Texture

These gnocchi are at their best when prune plums are naturally flavorful and still firm enough to hold their shape. In peak season, reduce the added sugar and allow the fruit to carry more of the sweetness. Outside peak season, choose the smallest firm plums available rather than substituting very watery fruit. When the dumpling is cut, the potato shell should remain tender and intact, while the plum center should be hot and soft without becoming liquid. The breadcrumb coating should still feel dry and toasted on the tongue. That combination of soft dough, warm fruit and crisp crumbs is the final standard for the dish.

Chef Gianluca