Guancia di Cervo Brasata all’Amarone (Italian Venison Cheeks Braised in Amarone)

Italian Venison Cheeks Braised in Amarone

Story of the Dish

Slow Braised Venison Cheeks with Amarone, Juniper, Roasted Celery Root, Glazed Baby Carrots and Natural Braising Jus

By Chef Gianluca Deiana

Guancia di Cervo Brasata all’Amarone is a dish built for slow cooking.

Venison cheek is completely different from loin or tenderloin. It is a hardworking muscle rich in connective tissue and collagen. Cook it quickly and it will be unforgivingly tough. Cook it slowly and correctly, and that collagen gradually transforms into gelatin, producing meat with extraordinary tenderness and a sauce with natural body.

Amarone della Valpolicella brings concentration, acidity, spice, and dried fruit character, but the objective is not to create a sweet sauce. The wine must be reduced properly and balanced with stock, vegetables, juniper, herbs, and the natural intensity of the venison.

The finished cheek should be tender enough to yield to a fork while still retaining its shape.

For this version, I serve it with roasted celery root and glazed baby carrots. No heavy starch is necessary. The vegetables provide enough sweetness and earthiness to balance the game while allowing the venison to remain the center of the plate.

Guancia di Cervo Brasata all’Amarone is built around the balance of its principal ingredients, correct temperature control, and disciplined seasoning. The preparation should preserve the identity of the main ingredient rather than bury it under unnecessary garnish or excess sauce. The method below follows professional Italian kitchen logic: organize the mise en place first, cook each component to its proper texture, and bring the elements together only when they are ready for service.

Recipe Information

Region: Italy

Servings: 4

Preparation Time: 40 minutes

Cooking Time: approximately 3½ to 4 hours

Difficulty: Advanced

Servings: 4. Prep Time: about 25 minutes. Cook Time varies with the cut and technique described above. Total Time: follow the doneness and resting cues in the method rather than the clock alone.

Ingredients

For the Venison Cheeks

4 large venison cheeks, approximately 2 to 2½ lb total

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the Marinade

2½ cups Amarone della Valpolicella

1 yellow onion, roughly chopped

1 carrot, roughly chopped

1 celery stalk, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

6 juniper berries, lightly crushed

1 rosemary sprig

4 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

6 black peppercorns

For the Braise

1 yellow onion, finely diced

1 carrot, finely diced

1 celery stalk, finely diced

2 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2½ cups concentrated game or veal stock

1 rosemary sprig

4 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

4 juniper berries, lightly crushed

For the Roasted Celery Root

1 large celery root

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 thyme sprigs

1 garlic clove

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the Glazed Baby Carrots

12 baby carrots

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

½ cup light stock

1 thyme sprig

Fine sea salt

For Finishing the Jus

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, if necessary

Freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

Preparing the Venison Cheeks

Inspect each cheek carefully.

Remove the thick exterior silver skin with a very sharp boning knife.

Do not aggressively remove the internal connective tissue.

That collagen is exactly what makes cheek such an extraordinary braising cut.

Keep the cheeks whole.

Large pieces retain moisture significantly better during several hours of cooking.

Marinating

Place the cheeks in a nonreactive container.

Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, juniper, rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns.

Pour over the Amarone.

Cover and refrigerate for approximately 8 to 12 hours.

Turn the cheeks once or twice if they are not completely submerged.

I would not marinate them much longer.

Amarone is powerful and concentrated, and the venison should remain recognizable.

Preparing for Cooking

Remove the cheeks from the marinade.

Strain the wine and reserve it.

Discard the vegetables and herbs from the marinade.

Use fresh vegetables for the actual braise.

Pat the cheeks completely dry.

Allow them to stand outside the refrigerator for approximately 20 minutes.

Season with fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Searing the Cheeks

Heat a heavy Dutch oven over medium high heat.

Add the extra virgin olive oil.

Place the cheeks into the pan without overcrowding.

Brown deeply on both sides.

Do not turn them repeatedly.

Allow proper caramelization to develop.

Depending on their size, this should require approximately 7 to 9 minutes total.

During the final minute, add the butter.

Baste the cheeks briefly with the foaming butter.

Remove and reserve.

Building the Soffritto

Reduce the heat to medium.

Add the fresh onion, carrot, and celery.

Cook slowly for approximately 8 minutes.

The vegetables should soften and develop light caramelization.

Add the garlic.

Cook for another minute.

Add the tomato paste.

Cook it directly against the bottom of the casserole for approximately 2 minutes.

The tomato paste should darken slightly.

This builds savory depth without making the finished sauce taste strongly of tomato.

Reducing the Amarone

Add approximately one third of the reserved wine.

Scrape every caramelized deposit from the bottom of the casserole.

Reduce substantially.

Add another third.

Reduce again.

Finally add the remaining wine.

Continue reducing until approximately half of the total wine volume remains.

This step cannot be rushed.

If the wine is not reduced properly, the final sauce can taste alcoholic and excessively fruity.

The reduction should smell concentrated, dark, and savory.

Building the Braise

Return the cheeks to the casserole.

Add enough hot game or veal stock to bring the liquid approximately two thirds of the way up the meat.

Add the rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, and juniper.

Bring the liquid just to a gentle simmer.

Cover tightly.

Transfer to the oven.

Slow Braising

Cook at 300°F for approximately 3 to 3½ hours.

Turn the cheeks every hour.

Check the liquid level.

Add a small amount of hot stock if necessary.

The braising liquid should never boil aggressively.

You want an extremely gentle movement.

Hard boiling tightens the proteins unnecessarily and can break the meat apart before the connective tissue has properly softened.

Determining Doneness

The clock provides guidance.

The meat determines when the dish is ready.

Insert a thin metal skewer into the center of a cheek.

There should be almost no resistance.

The cheek should feel exceptionally tender but should not collapse when lifted from the sauce.

If resistance remains, continue cooking for another 20 to 30 minutes.

Some larger or older venison cheeks may require close to 4 hours.

Resting in the Braising Liquid

Remove the casserole from the oven.

Allow the cheeks to rest in the liquid for approximately 20 minutes.

This is particularly useful with braised meats.

The temperature decreases gently while the meat remains surrounded by its flavorful cooking liquid.

Carefully remove the cheeks.

Keep warm.

Preparing the Natural Amarone Jus

Strain the entire braising liquid through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan.

Press the vegetables lightly to extract their liquid.

Do not force them through the sieve.

Allow the sauce to settle.

Remove excessive surface fat.

Bring to a gentle simmer.

Reduce until the sauce becomes dark, glossy, and concentrated enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon.

Depending on the amount of liquid remaining after braising, this can require 15 to 25 minutes.

Balancing the Amarone

Taste carefully.

Amarone can bring noticeable dried fruit character and substantial concentration.

The finished sauce should remain savory.

If it feels slightly too rich or sweet, add approximately 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar.

Add it gradually.

You should not taste vinegar.

It should simply restore tension and freshness to the sauce.

Remove from the heat.

Whisk in the cold butter.

Adjust the salt only now.

Reduction concentrates seasoning considerably.

Finish with freshly ground black pepper.

Roasted Celery Root

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Peel the celery root thoroughly.

Cut it into substantial irregular pieces approximately 1½ inches across.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil.

Blanch the celery root for approximately 4 minutes.

Drain completely.

Allow the steam to evaporate.

Toss with extra virgin olive oil, salt, black pepper, thyme, and the lightly crushed garlic.

Roast for approximately 25 to 30 minutes.

Turn occasionally.

During the final 5 minutes, add the butter and toss.

The exterior should become deeply golden while the interior remains creamy.

Glazed Baby Carrots

Place the baby carrots in a sauté pan.

Add the stock, butter, thyme, and a small pinch of salt.

Bring to a gentle simmer.

Cover partially.

Cook until the carrots are nearly tender.

Remove the lid.

Increase the heat slightly.

Allow the remaining liquid to reduce around the carrots.

Continuously roll them through the reducing butter and stock.

The finished carrots should be glossy and naturally sweet without added sugar.

Final Glazing of the Venison

Place the cheeks in a clean sauté pan.

Add several spoonfuls of the finished Amarone jus.

Warm gently.

Continuously spoon the sauce over the meat.

As the sauce reduces slightly, it will form a beautiful dark glaze around the cheeks.

This should require only approximately 3 to 4 minutes.

Do not aggressively boil the meat.

It is already perfectly cooked.

Professional Technique

Cheek is a braising cut. Do not attempt to cook it like loin.

Remove exterior silver skin but preserve internal collagen.

Keep the cheeks whole. They retain moisture and presentation better.

Dry the meat before searing. Wet meat steams.

Use fresh vegetables for the braise. Discard the exhausted marinade vegetables.

Reduce the Amarone before adding stock. This is essential.

Use juniper carefully. Game and juniper belong together, but excessive juniper becomes medicinal.

Braise gently. The liquid should barely move.

Test tenderness with a skewer. Do not rely entirely on time.

Strain the sauce. A refined jus should be clean and glossy.

Balance sweetness with acidity. Amarone should never turn the dish into dessert.

Finish with cold butter. No flour or cornstarch is necessary.

Control heat and moisture deliberately. Prepare all components before the final cooking stage, season progressively instead of all at once, and judge doneness by texture and appearance as well as by time. Keep the principal ingredient clearly identifiable and finish the dish only when every component is ready to be served together.

Chef Tips

Taste throughout the preparation, keep finishing ingredients measured and restrained, and use the freshest version of the principal ingredient available. Warm serving plates for hot dishes and chill serving vessels for cold desserts or salads when appropriate. Final seasoning should sharpen the dish, not dominate it.

Mistakes to Avoid

Do not rush the main cooking stage, overcrowd pans, or compensate for weak flavor with excess salt, sugar, cheese, or garnish. Avoid overcooking delicate ingredients and do not let a finished sauce sit over aggressive heat. Follow the texture cues in the method because ingredient size and equipment can change exact timing.

Serving and Presentation

Use a large warm plate.

Place one glazed venison cheek slightly off center.

Arrange three or four pieces of roasted celery root alongside.

Add several glazed baby carrots.

Spoon the Amarone jus around and partially over the cheek.

Leave part of the glazed surface exposed.

Finish with several fresh thyme leaves and freshly ground black pepper.

The plate should be clean and architectural rather than crowded.

The dark cheek, golden celery root, orange carrots, and glossy sauce provide enough visual contrast.

Servings and Timing

Servings: 4. Prep Time: about 25 minutes. Cook Time varies with the cut and technique described above. Total Time: follow the doneness and resting cues in the method rather than the clock alone.

Wine Pairing

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG

Because Amarone is used in the braise, it creates a natural connection between the glass and the plate.

Choose an Amarone with sufficient acidity and savory character rather than simply the richest or highest alcohol example available.

The wine's dark fruit, dried cherry, spice, tobacco, and balsamic character work naturally with slow cooked game.

Taurasi DOCG

A mature Taurasi is outstanding here.

Aglianico provides acidity and powerful structure while its dark fruit, leather, smoke, earth, and spice complement the intensity of venison cheek.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Brunello provides a more linear alternative.

Its acidity is particularly useful against the gelatinous richness of the cheek and the concentrated jus.

Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG

A mature Sagrantino has enough tannin and concentration to handle a serious game braise.

Bottle age is important because a very young example can overwhelm the dish.

Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC

For a lighter pairing from the same territory as Amarone, a serious Ripasso Superiore can work beautifully while keeping the overall experience less powerful.

Nutrition per Serving

Protein: 1.59 oz

Carbohydrates: 0.85 oz

Fat: 1.34 oz

Saturated Fat: 0.49 oz

Fiber: 0.14 oz

Sugars: 0.21 oz

Sodium: 760 mg

Cholesterol: 155 mg

Approximate nutrition per serving: 560 calories, 1.48 oz protein, 0.85 oz carbohydrates, 1.09 oz fat, 0.35 oz saturated fat, 0.14 oz fiber, 0.21 oz sugars, 760 mg sodium, and 135 mg cholesterol. Values vary with the cut of meat and serving size.

Storage and Reheating

This is actually a dish I prefer preparing one day ahead.

Cool the cheeks in some of their braising liquid.

Refrigerate overnight.

Store the strained sauce separately.

The next day, remove the solidified fat from the sauce.

Reduce the jus to the desired consistency.

Warm the cheeks slowly in a portion of the sauce.

Glaze them immediately before serving.

The flavors become even more integrated after resting overnight.

Cool cooked meat promptly and refrigerate in a covered container for up to 3 days. Reheat gently with its sauce or cooking juices until hot throughout; avoid repeated reheating, which dries the meat.

Chef Gianluca