Pepolino is a convincing Tuscan restaurant in Tribeca with strong handmade pasta, regional identity, good hospitality, and a serious traditional foundation. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.

Lilia is a very good contemporary Italian restaurant in Williamsburg with serious handmade pasta, wood-fired seafood, thoughtful vegetables, excellent wine, and a clear Italian foundation. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.

Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria is one of downtown New York’s more convincing expressions of Italian food culture, built around bread, salumi, pasta, wine, and a real market philosophy. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.