Naples is one of the easiest Italian cities to misunderstand. It can be loud, theatrical, elegant, chaotic, scholarly, poor, wealthy, sacred and irreverent within the same afternoon. For generations it has been flattened into stereotypes: pizza and Vesuvius on one side, crime and disorder on the other. Neither image is sufficient. To understand Naples, one must look at history, geography, social inequality, organized crime, cultural resilience and the everyday life of a metro