Pappardelle with Wild Boar, Cannonau and Dark Chocolate (Pappardelle al Cinghiale, Cannonau e Cioccolato Fondente) This is the Sardinian reading of wild boar ragu, and it is a different animal from the Tuscan one in every sense. The boar is the island subspecies, smaller and leaner than its mainland cousin. The wine is Cannonau, not Chianti. And the finishing note is a small piece of bitter chocolate stirred in off the heat, a Spanish inheritance rather than an Italian invent

wide ribbons of pasta finished with a rich slow-cooked beef ragù, red wine, tomato and Parmigiano

Pappardelle Fresche con Rana Pescatrice, Porcini, Vermentino e Timo Mare e monti, sea and mountain, is one of the few Italian pairings that sounds like a slogan and is not. Along the Tyrrhenian coast the porcini season in the hills behind the shore opens in September, exactly when monkfish comes back into its own, and cooks who lived between the two simply used both. Monkfish, rana pescatrice on an Italian slab, is the only white fish that behaves properly here. It has dense