Sandro’s is a convincing Upper East Side Italian restaurant with a strong Roman foundation, serious pasta, good wine and unusually personal hospitality. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.

Lupa Osteria Romana still has a clear Roman identity, a respectable pasta program and a strong Italian wine list, but its current execution and competitive distinction support a final rating of 3.0 out of 5.

Babbo remains an important New York Italian restaurant with a strong pasta program, serious wine list and distinctive atmosphere, but current inconsistency keeps it at 3.5 stars.