Da Umberto remains a credible classic Italian restaurant with strong service, good pasta, and a serious wine program, but uneven execution and weaker value keep it at three stars. Final rating: 3.0 out of 5.

Uva is a good Upper East Side Italian wine restaurant with a strong room, good pasta, and a serious wine program, but its culinary identity is too broad to rank among New York’s strongest Italian restaurants. Final rating: 3.0 out of 5.

Locanda Verde is a serious contemporary Italian restaurant in Tribeca with strong pasta, credible Italian ingredients, a polished room, and a serious wine program. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.