Cuore di Vitello al Cannonau con Patate Arrosto e Bietola (Italian Sardinian Braised Veal Heart with Cannonau, Roasted Potatoes and Swiss Chard)

Cuore di Vitello al Cannonau con Patate Arrosto e Bietola (Italian Sardinian Braised Veal Heart with Cannonau, Roasted Potatoes and Swiss Chard)

Sardinian cuisine has always been deeply connected to pastoral life, livestock, wine, wild herbs, and the principle of using the animal with respect and intelligence. Cuore di Vitello al Cannonau belongs naturally to this tradition.

Veal heart is very different from liver. Although classified among the frattaglie, heart is fundamentally a powerful, extremely lean muscle. It has a deep but surprisingly clean flavor, without the pronounced mineral character associated with liver. Its challenge is texture: cooked incorrectly, heart can become firm and rubbery; handled patiently, it becomes beautifully tender while retaining enough structure to slice elegantly.

In this Sardinian-inspired preparation, the cleaned veal heart is deeply seared and slowly braised with Cannonau di Sardegna, a traditional soffritto, tomato paste, rosemary, sage, juniper, and stock. The braising liquid is then strained and reduced into a dark, glossy Cannonau jus.

Crisp rosemary-roasted potatoes provide an earthy counterpoint, while sautéed Swiss chard (bietola) introduces the slight bitterness and freshness necessary to balance the richness of the meat and wine.

The result is rustic Sardinian cooking interpreted with professional technique: tender slices of veal heart, concentrated Cannonau jus, crisp potatoes, and silky bietola.

Servings: 4

Prep Time: 40 minutes

Marinating Time: 4–12 hours

Cook Time: 2 hours 45 minutes

Resting Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: Approximately 3 hours 40 minutes, plus marinating

History and Sardinian Inspiration

To understand a dish built around heart, it is necessary to understand something fundamental about traditional Sardinian cooking: historically, an animal was far too valuable to waste.

For generations, the island's rural economy depended heavily on agriculture and pastoralism. Sheep and goats naturally became central to Sardinian food culture, but cattle, pigs, and other livestock also contributed to the diet of farming communities.

The prized cuts were only one part of the animal.

Heart, liver, kidneys, intestines, lungs, and other frattaglie belonged to a practical culinary culture in which skill determined whether a humble ingredient became ordinary or exceptional.

Heart is particularly interesting.

Anatomically, it is an organ, but from a cook's perspective it behaves much more like an intensely exercised muscle.

There is almost no intramuscular fat.

That means there is little protection against poor cooking.

It can be cooked very quickly and served relatively pink, or it can be cooked slowly enough for its connective tissues to soften.

The uncomfortable middle ground—too long for rare cooking but too short for proper braising—is what often produces tough heart.

For this preparation, the slow method is preferable.

And the natural Sardinian companion is Cannonau.

Cannonau is one of the wines most strongly associated with Sardinia. Its ripe fruit, warmth, Mediterranean character, spice, and savory qualities make it particularly compatible with deeply flavored meats.

During a long braise, however, the wine changes completely.

Alcohol evaporates.

Fruit becomes concentrated.

Acidity integrates with meat juices.

The tannic structure softens as the wine combines with stock, soffritto, tomato, and the natural gelatin released during cooking.

Rosemary, sage, and juniper connect the sauce with the aromatic landscape traditionally associated with the Mediterranean interior.

The potatoes and bietola complete the dish without distracting from it.

This is important.

A preparation like this does not require elaborate garnishes or numerous modern components.

Its sophistication comes from correct trimming, deep browning, controlled braising, careful reduction, and balance on the plate.

Ingredients

For the Veal Heart

1 whole veal heart, approximately 2 1/2 lb before trimming

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

For the Cannonau Marinade

1 1/2 cups Cannonau di Sardegna

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

1 rosemary sprig

4 fresh sage leaves

2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

4 black peppercorns

For the Sardinian Soffritto

1 medium yellow onion, finely diced

1 medium carrot, finely diced

1 large celery stalk, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

For the Cannonau Braise

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups Cannonau di Sardegna

2 to 2 1/2 cups unsalted veal or beef stock

1 small rosemary sprig

5 fresh sage leaves

2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

2 juniper berries, lightly crushed

For Finishing the Cannonau Jus

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, only if necessary

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the Rosemary Roasted Potatoes

1 1/2 lb Yukon Gold potatoes

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Swiss Chard

1 large bunch Swiss chard, approximately 1 lb

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 small pinch crushed red pepper

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted stock or water

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Preparation

Step 1 — Clean the Veal Heart Properly

This is the first essential technique.

Place the heart on a large cutting board.

Examine its natural structure before beginning to cut.

Remove the thick exterior fat concentrated around the upper portion of the heart.

Follow the natural chambers with a sharp boning knife and open them carefully.

Remove the valves, large blood vessels, thick connective tissue, and any tough white membranes.

Inspect the interior chambers and remove any coagulated blood.

The objective is to preserve the clean, dark-red muscle while eliminating structures that will remain unpleasantly chewy even after braising.

If necessary, rinse the heart very briefly under cold running water.

Immediately pat completely dry.

A heart weighing approximately 2 1/2 lb may yield around 1 3/4 to 2 lb of cleaned meat.

Do not be concerned about the loss.

Proper trimming is essential to the final texture.

Step 2 — Marinate in Cannonau

Place the cleaned heart in a nonreactive container.

Add the Cannonau, olive oil, garlic, rosemary, sage, thyme, bay leaf, and black peppercorns.

Turn the heart several times.

Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably 8–12 hours.

Turn once or twice during marinating if possible.

The purpose is not to make the heart taste overwhelmingly of wine.

The marinade contributes aromatic depth while beginning to season the exterior of the meat.

Do not marinate for several days.

Overexposure to acidic wine can begin negatively affecting the exterior texture.

Step 3 — Prepare the Heart for Braising

Remove the heart from the marinade approximately 30 minutes before cooking.

Discard the marinade and aromatics.

Do not use the raw marinade for the finished sauce.

Pat the heart extremely dry with paper towels.

Season evenly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Step 4 — Sear the Heart

Place a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Add 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil.

When the oil is shimmering, add the heart.

Allow the first surface to remain in contact with the pot until a deep brown crust develops.

Turn and repeat on every exposed surface.

Depending on the shape of the cleaned heart, this should require approximately 8–10 minutes total.

During the final minute, add 1 tablespoon butter.

Allow it to foam.

Tilt the pot slightly and baste the heart with the butter.

Transfer the heart to a plate.

Do not clean the pot.

The dark caramelized material attached to the bottom is the fond, and it contains an enormous amount of flavor.

Step 5 — Build the Soffritto

Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil.

Add the onion, carrot, and celery.

Season with a very small pinch of salt.

Cook approximately 10–12 minutes, stirring regularly.

The vegetables should gradually become tender and lightly golden.

Do not aggressively brown them.

This slow cooking extracts their sweetness and creates the aromatic foundation of the Cannonau sauce.

Add the garlic.

Cook another 60 seconds.

Step 6 — Caramelize the Tomato Paste

Add the tomato paste directly to the soffritto.

Cook approximately 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly.

The tomato paste should change from bright red to a deeper brick-red color.

This develops sweetness and removes the raw flavor of concentrated tomato.

Keep the quantity controlled.

The final dish should never taste primarily of tomato.

Step 7 — Deglaze with Cannonau

Increase the heat to medium-high.

Pour in 2 cups Cannonau di Sardegna.

Immediately scrape the bottom of the Dutch oven with a wooden spoon.

Release every piece of caramelized fond.

Bring the wine to a lively simmer.

Reduce approximately 10–15 minutes, until the volume has decreased by roughly half.

This stage should not be skipped.

At first, the aroma will be dominated by alcohol.

As the reduction progresses, the harsh alcohol aroma disappears and the Cannonau becomes deeper, darker, and more concentrated.

Only then should you proceed.

Step 8 — Build the Braising Liquid

Return the browned heart to the Dutch oven.

Add enough hot veal or beef stock to reach approximately two-thirds of the way up the meat.

Do not completely submerge the heart.

Add the rosemary, sage, thyme, bay leaf, and crushed juniper berries.

Bring the liquid just to a gentle simmer.

Cover the Dutch oven.

Transfer immediately to the 325°F oven.

Step 9 — Braise Slowly

Cook approximately 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

Turn the heart approximately every 40 minutes.

Each time you turn it, spoon some of the braising liquid over the exposed surface.

Check the liquid level.

If necessary, add a small amount of hot stock, approximately 1/2 cup at a time.

Never allow the pot to dry.

At the same time, do not drown the meat.

Braising depends on a combination of moist heat, steam, and concentrated cooking liquid.

After approximately 1 hour 45 minutes, begin testing the heart.

Insert a thin knife into the thickest section.

When properly braised, the knife should enter with little resistance.

However, the heart should still retain enough structure to produce clean slices.

We are not attempting to create shredded meat.

Preparing the Rosemary Potatoes

Step 10 — Parboil the Potatoes

While the heart braises, cut the Yukon Gold potatoes into approximately 1 1/2-inch pieces.

Place them in a saucepan.

Cover with cold water.

Season generously with salt.

Bring gradually to a boil.

Cook approximately 8–10 minutes.

The edges should become tender while the center remains slightly firm.

Drain thoroughly.

Allow the potatoes to steam-dry for approximately 5 minutes.

Step 11 — Roughen the Potatoes

Shake the drained potatoes gently in the colander.

You want to slightly roughen their exterior without breaking them apart.

This exposes starch on the surface.

That starch is one of the secrets to an exceptionally crisp roasted potato.

Transfer to a bowl.

Add olive oil, garlic, rosemary, kosher salt, and black pepper.

Toss gently.

Step 12 — Roast Until Crisp

Increase a separate oven, or the oven after the heart is finished, to 425°F.

Arrange the potatoes in a single layer on a roasting pan.

Leave space between them.

Roast approximately 35–40 minutes, turning once.

They should become deeply golden and crisp outside while remaining soft and creamy inside.

Keep warm.

Preparing the Bietola

Step 13 — Prepare the Swiss Chard

Wash the Swiss chard thoroughly.

Separate the thick stems from the leaves.

Slice the stems approximately 1/4 inch thick.

Roughly chop the leaves.

Keep them separate.

The stems require additional cooking time.

Step 14 — Sauté the Chard

Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

Add the sliced garlic.

Cook approximately 30 seconds without allowing it to brown.

Add the chard stems.

Season lightly with salt.

Cook approximately 3 minutes.

Add the leaves and crushed red pepper.

Add 2 tablespoons stock or water.

Cover for approximately 2 minutes.

Remove the lid.

Continue cooking another 3–4 minutes, until the leaves are tender and excess moisture has evaporated.

Finish with 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice.

Taste and adjust seasoning.

The lemon should not dominate.

Its purpose is simply to brighten the vegetable and balance the richness of the braised heart.

Finishing the Heart and Cannonau Jus

Step 15 — Rest the Heart

When the heart reaches the correct tenderness, carefully remove it from the braising liquid.

Place it on a warm plate.

Cover loosely with aluminum foil.

Allow it to rest approximately 15 minutes.

This gives the meat time to stabilize before slicing.

Step 16 — Strain the Braising Liquid

Remove the large herb stems and bay leaf.

Pass the entire braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan.

Press the vegetables gently with the back of a spoon to extract their liquid.

Do not force the vegetables through the strainer.

The objective is a smooth, refined Cannonau jus rather than a vegetable puree.

Step 17 — Reduce the Cannonau Jus

Place the saucepan over medium heat.

Bring to a gentle simmer.

Reduce approximately 10–20 minutes, depending on the amount of liquid remaining.

Watch the consistency rather than the clock.

The sauce is ready when it lightly coats the back of a spoon.

Taste carefully.

You should recognize:

the dark fruit of Cannonau

the savory intensity of veal

the sweetness of soffritto

subtle tomato

rosemary and sage

a restrained hint of juniper

and enough acidity to prevent the sauce from becoming heavy.

If necessary, add up to 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar.

Do not add it automatically.

Step 18 — Mount the Sauce with Butter

Remove the saucepan from the heat.

Add 1 tablespoon cold butter.

Whisk or swirl continuously.

The butter should emulsify into the sauce, producing a glossy finish and slightly softer mouthfeel.

Do not aggressively boil the sauce after adding the butter.

Keep warm.

Step 19 — Slice the Veal Heart

Place the rested heart on a clean cutting board.

Identify the direction of the muscle fibers.

Slice across the grain approximately 1/4 inch thick.

This detail is critical.

Heart contains long, powerful muscle fibers.

Cutting across them shortens those fibers dramatically and produces a more tender eating experience.

Step 20 — Glaze the Slices

Place the sliced heart in a shallow skillet.

Add enough Cannonau jus to lightly coat the bottom of the pan.

Warm gently over low heat for approximately 1–2 minutes.

Turn the slices carefully so they become glazed.

Do not boil.

Do not cook them again.

The purpose is simply to return the heart to serving temperature and coat it with the finished sauce.

Chef Tips

Clean the Heart Meticulously

This is perhaps the most important preparation step.

The actual muscle can become beautifully tender.

Large vessels, valves, and tough membranes will remain unpleasant if they are not removed.

Use Cannonau You Would Drink

The wine is being concentrated.

A poor wine does not magically improve when reduced.

Develop a Serious Sear

The dark crust on the heart and the fond left behind in the pot provide essential roasted complexity to the final sauce.

Reduce the Wine Before Adding Stock

If you immediately dilute the Cannonau with stock, the sauce can retain an unpleasant raw-wine character.

Keep the Braise Gentle

The liquid should barely simmer.

Aggressive boiling tightens the muscle fibers.

Control the Juniper

Juniper and Cannonau work beautifully together, but too much juniper will dominate the entire dish.

Two lightly crushed berries are sufficient.

Slice Against the Grain

With heart, this isn't simply a suggestion.

It materially changes tenderness.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Confusing Heart with Liver

They require completely different cooking techniques.

Liver generally benefits from very rapid cooking.

Heart can be cooked quickly when prepared appropriately, but for this recipe it requires a controlled long braise.

Poor Trimming

Leaving valves, vessels, and thick connective tissue attached produces chewy sections.

Skipping the Sear

Without proper caramelization, the braising sauce lacks depth.

Boiling Instead of Braising

A violent boil can produce firm, dry muscle fibers.

Using Too Much Tomato

The principal flavors should be heart and Cannonau.

Tomato is supporting structure only.

Completely Submerging the Meat

This is a braise, not a boiled meat preparation.

Over-Reducing the Jus

Cannonau, stock, and meat juices become increasingly concentrated during reduction.

Take particular care with salt.

Slicing with the Grain

This unnecessarily increases chewiness.

Serving and Presentation

For a refined presentation, arrange four or five slices of glazed veal heart slightly overlapping and just off-center on a warm plate.

Place a compact portion of sautéed bietola beside the heart.

Add three or four crisp rosemary potatoes with enough separation that their golden surfaces remain visible.

Spoon the glossy Cannonau jus primarily around and lightly over the heart.

Do not flood the plate.

The sauce should complement the meat while allowing its caramelized surface and natural texture to remain visible.

A few drops of excellent Sardinian extra virgin olive oil can finish the bietola.

Nothing else is necessary.

No microgreens.

No edible flowers.

No random herb branches.

No vertical crisps or decorative structures.

The presentation should derive its elegance from clean composition, controlled portions, natural textures, negative space, and a perfectly reduced sauce.

Wine Pairing

Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva

The most natural pairing and my first choice.

The wine echoes the Cannonau used in the braising sauce while offering enough structure for the concentrated flavor of the heart.

Nepente di Oliena

A particularly compelling pairing. Its Cannonau character, warmth, aromatic herbs, and savory structure connect naturally with the rosemary, juniper, and braised meat.

Cannonau di Jerzu

Another excellent expression, especially for a plate emphasizing the rustic interior character of Sardinian cooking.

Carignano del Sulcis Riserva

Carignano provides dark fruit, Mediterranean herbs, acidity, and considerable structure without simply repeating the wine used in the sauce.

Monica di Sardegna Superiore

For a somewhat lighter approach, Monica can provide freshness and red-fruit character while allowing the veal heart to remain dominant.

Chef Gianluca’s Recommendation

This is a dish that I strongly recommend preparing one day ahead.

Braise the heart completely.

Instead of immediately slicing it, allow it to cool with some of its braising liquid.

Refrigerate overnight.

The following day, remove any solidified fat from the cooking liquid and strain it carefully.

Reduce the liquid into the finished Cannonau jus.

Meanwhile, slice the chilled heart across the grain.

Cold braised heart can be portioned far more precisely than hot heart, producing beautifully clean slices without tearing the meat.

Shortly before service, place the slices in a shallow pan with several spoonfuls of Cannonau jus.

Reheat extremely gently.

Do not boil.

Finish the potatoes in the oven and sauté the bietola shortly before plating.

This method gives you considerably greater control and, importantly, allows the flavors of Cannonau, veal, soffritto, rosemary, sage, and juniper to integrate overnight.

The final forkful should contain a slice of tender heart coated with Cannonau jus, a crisp piece of rosemary potato, and a little bietola.

You get the concentrated savoriness of the meat first, followed by the dark fruit and acidity of Cannonau, the crisp richness of potato, and finally the slightly bitter freshness of the greens.

It is a dish built from humble ingredients but capable of tremendous elegance when every technique is executed correctly.

That is the character I want from Cuore di Vitello al Cannonau con Patate Arrosto e Bietola: unmistakably Sardinian, deeply flavorful, rustic at its foundation, and refined on the plate.

Chef Gianluca Deiana

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