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Italian Carasau Bread Lasagna with Eggplant and Pecorino | Lasagnetta di Pane Carasau con Melanzane e Pecorino

Sep 17
11 min read
Lasagnetta di Pane Carasau con Melanzane e Pecorino (Italian Carasau Bread Lasagna with Eggplant and Pecorino)
Lasagnetta di Pane Carasau con Melanzane e Pecorino (Italian Carasau Bread Lasagna with Eggplant and Pecorino)

Lasagnetta di Pane Carasau answers with bread a question the mainland answered with egg pasta. If the staple in your pantry is a disc baked twice until it snaps like a wafer, how do you build a layered baked dish out of it? Pane carasau never needs to be boiled, rolled or rested. It needs to be rehydrated, and that takes about four seconds.

The layers here are roasted eggplant, a short tomato sauce built on onion and basil, and aged Pecorino Sardo. The bread goes through hot salted water or light broth just long enough to turn supple, then straight into the dish, where it drinks the sauce as the lasagnetta bakes. Handled right, the sheets stay distinct and tender with a faint chew. Handled carelessly, they dissolve into paste and the dish loses its structure entirely.

Yield: 4 servings. Prep: 40 minutes. Cook: 45 minutes. Rest: 10 minutes. Total: about 1 hour 35 minutes. Difficulty: intermediate. Course: primo piatto. Region: Sardinia, the Barbagia and the Nuoro highlands.


The Story


Pane carasau is shepherd bread and its whole design is dictated by transhumance. Flocks in the Barbagia moved for weeks at a time, and bread that stayed soft went mouldy within days. So the loaf was rolled paper thin, baked until it puffed into a balloon, split into two discs while hot, then returned to the oven to dry. Carasare means to toast in Sardinian, and that second baking is what makes the bread keep for months in a cloth sack. The Italian name, carta da musica, comes from the sound it makes when broken.

Because it is bone dry, carasau is a blank waiting for liquid, and Sardinian cooking treats it as one. The most famous use is pane frattau, from the Nuoro highlands: sheets dipped in broth, layered with tomato, grated pecorino and a poached egg on top. What that dish shares with this one is the moment of dipping, where the cook decides the entire texture of the finished plate in a few seconds.

Eggplant is the newer element, arriving through Spanish and Arab trade routes and settling quickly into the fried eggplant and tomato cooking of the southern coast. Putting it between carasau sheets with Pecorino Sardo is a modern trattoria idea rather than an ancient one, but it is built entirely out of island ingredients and island technique.


Ingredients


For the eggplant

  • Globe eggplant, 2 large, about 2 lb (900 g) total

  • Extra virgin olive oil, 4 tbsp (60 ml)

  • Fine sea salt, 1 tsp (6 g), for salting and seasoning

  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the tomato sauce

  • Canned San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand, 28 oz (800 g)

  • Yellow onion, finely chopped, 1 medium, about 5 oz (140 g)

  • Garlic cloves, thinly sliced, 2

  • Extra virgin olive oil, 3 tbsp (45 ml)

  • Fresh basil leaves, 10 to 12

  • Fine sea salt, 1 tsp (6 g)

  • Granulated sugar, a pinch, only if the tomatoes taste sharp

For the layers

  • Pane carasau sheets, 6 to 8, about 7 oz (200 g)

  • Light vegetable broth or salted water for dipping, 6 cups (1.4 liters)

  • Pecorino Sardo, aged, finely grated, 1 1/2 cups (150 g)

  • Fresh mozzarella or vaccino cheese, drained and diced, 5 oz (140 g)

For finishing

  • Pecorino Sardo, grated, 1/4 cup (25 g), for the top

  • Small basil leaves, 10 to 12

  • Extra virgin olive oil, a few drops per plate


Preparation


Salt and roast the eggplant

Trim the eggplants and cut them lengthwise into slices about 1/3 in (8 mm) thick. Lay them on a rack, salt both sides lightly and leave them 30 minutes, then blot them dry. Salting draws out water and collapses some of the spongy cell structure, so the slices absorb far less oil later. Brush them with the olive oil and roast at 425°F (220°C) for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once, until soft and lightly browned at the edges.

Build the tomato sauce

Warm the 3 tablespoons of oil in a wide pan over medium low heat, add the onion with a pinch of salt and sweat it 8 to 10 minutes until soft and sweet without colour. Add the sliced garlic for the last minute only. Tip in the hand crushed tomatoes with the salt and half the basil and simmer uncovered 25 to 30 minutes, until the sauce coats a spoon and no watery liquid separates at the edge of the pan. Tear in the rest of the basil off the heat.

Get the sauce to the right thickness

This step decides whether the lasagnetta holds together. Carasau brings no starch of its own, so the sauce has to arrive thick enough to sit on a sheet without running off. Draw a spoon across the base of the pan: the track should stay open for a second before the sauce closes over it. If it floods back instantly, keep reducing. A thin sauce turns every sheet to pulp.

Heat the dipping liquid

Bring the broth or salted water to a bare simmer in the widest shallow pan you own and hold it just below boiling. Wide matters, because you want to lay a whole sheet flat rather than fold it. If you use water, salt it as you would pasta water: this is the only chance the bread has to take on seasoning of its own. Have a tray and a clean towel beside the pan before you start.

Dip the carasau sheets

Work one sheet at a time and count. Slide it into the hot liquid, hold it under 3 to 5 seconds, and lift it out the moment it goes flexible. It should bend without cracking and still feel like bread, not like a wet cloth. Sheets left in for ten or fifteen seconds come out saturated and tear as you lift them, and nothing later can recover from that. Dip only as many as the next layer needs.

Layer the lasagnetta

Oil a baking dish of about 8 by 8 in (20 by 20 cm) and spread a thin film of sauce on the base. Lay down dipped carasau to cover, breaking sheets to fit rather than overlapping them thickly. Add roasted eggplant, a few spoonfuls of sauce, a scatter of grated Pecorino Sardo and some diced mozzarella. Repeat for four layers, keeping the sauce moderate throughout, and finish with carasau, a thin layer of sauce and the reserved 1/4 cup of pecorino.

Bake and rest

Cover with foil, bake at 375°F (190°C) for 20 minutes, then uncover for another 12 to 15 minutes until the top is golden and the edges bubble. The foil traps steam in the first stage, which finishes softening the bread evenly; taking it off dries and browns the surface. Rest the lasagnetta 10 minutes before cutting. Straight from the oven it slumps.


Plating


Mark the portions first with a thin sharp knife, cutting straight down through every layer, then lift each square out with a fish slice held flat. Levering a portion out without cutting the top sheet drags the whole surface with it. Warm the plates only to hand hot, since a very hot plate keeps the melted pecorino moving and the slice spreads.

Set the square slightly off centre and leave the plate open around it. The appeal of this dish is the section, the band of dark eggplant between pale layers of bread, so the cut face should be what the diner sees first.

Finish with a few small basil leaves, a very light grating of pecorino and a few drops of olive oil around the base, never over the top, where it would dull the crust you just browned. Serve within a minute or two of plating. There is no sauce to spoon around it, and none is wanted.


Professional Technique


The defining technique is controlled rehydration, and it has no equivalent in pasta cookery. Dried egg pasta is cooked: starch gelatinises, the sheet swells and takes on water over several minutes. Pane carasau is already fully baked, so nothing gelatinises. In the dipping pan a dry porous crumb takes on water by capillary action almost instantly, and the window between flexible and saturated is a matter of seconds. Counting out loud is the reliable way to do it.

The second is hydration budgeting across the whole dish. In a conventional lasagna the pasta absorbs liquid during the bake and a slightly loose sauce is an advantage. Here the bread arrives already hydrated, so the sauce is the only remaining source of moisture and any excess simply pools. Hence the deeper reduction, the roasted rather than fried eggplant, and the moderate cheese.

The third is the two stage bake. Twenty minutes covered gives an even steamy environment that carries residual moisture from the sauce into the drier patches of bread, evening out any inconsistency in the dipping. The final uncovered stage drives surface water off and lets the pecorino brown. Reverse the order and the top sets hard before the interior has settled, leaving a dish that is crisp above and chalky inside.


Texture and Moisture Control


The target is four distinct layers visible in the cut face, each yielding to a fork without resistance and without sogginess. Carasau has no gluten structure left to protect it once wet, so the only defence against collapse is limiting how much liquid reaches it. Every decision here, from salting the eggplant to reducing the sauce, is a decision about total water in the dish.

Eggplant is around 92 percent water and releases most of it when heated. Salted and roasted, it gives that water up on the tray where it evaporates; sliced raw into the layers, it gives it up inside the dish where it has nowhere to go. That difference is what separates a lasagnetta that cuts cleanly from one that has to be spooned out.

The rest is temperature and time. Ten minutes of rest lets the melted pecorino set enough to bind the layers and brings the dish to a temperature where the eggplant tastes of eggplant rather than only of heat.


Professional Mise en Place


Almost everything here can be done ahead, and the only step that cannot be rushed is the dipping. Have the dish oiled and every component within reach before the first sheet goes into the liquid.

Equipment and tools

  • Baking dish about 8 by 8 in (20 by 20 cm), with straight sides

  • Wide shallow pan for dipping, wider than a whole carasau sheet

  • Two sheet trays with racks, for salting and for roasting the eggplant

  • Wide saucepan for the tomato sauce

  • Fish slice, thin sharp knife and a clean towel for the dipped sheets

Prepared ahead

  • Tomato sauce cooked and reduced, up to 3 days ahead, refrigerated

  • Eggplant salted and roasted, up to 1 day ahead, kept covered and cold

  • Pecorino Sardo grated on the day, mozzarella diced and drained on paper

  • Broth made or opened, ready to heat, up to 3 days ahead

  • Whole assembled dish, up to 1 day ahead, baked from cold with 10 extra minutes

Service setup

  • Dipping liquid at a bare simmer, tasted for salt before the first sheet

  • Carasau sheets counted out and stacked dry beside the pan

  • Sauce warm and loose enough to spread, cheeses in separate bowls

  • Oven preheated and a sheet of foil already cut to size

  • Plates at hand hot, knife and fish slice ready for the rested dish


Chef Tips


Use broth rather than water for the dipping if you have any. Carasau takes on whatever it is dipped into, and a light broth adds a savoury backing that water cannot, particularly in a dish with only three other components.

Buy the thinner carasau if your shop sells more than one grade. The heavy rustic sheets sold for toasting keep more bite but they need longer in the liquid and the extra seconds are exactly where the technique goes wrong. Thin sheets rehydrate fast and evenly.

Aged Pecorino Sardo is the right cheese and it is not interchangeable with Pecorino Romano, which is far saltier and will overwhelm the eggplant. If you can only find Romano, cut the quantity by a third and add no extra salt anywhere.

Make the sauce the day before. It reduces more predictably when you are not also managing an oven and a dipping pan, and a night in the refrigerator thickens it further, which is helpful here.


Common Mistakes


Soaking the carasau instead of dipping it. Three to five seconds is the whole operation. Sheets held under for ten or more come out saturated, tear as they are lifted and turn to paste in the bake. Count every time, even when you think you know the feel of it.

Using a sauce that is too thin. The bread contributes no starch and the dish has no other way to thicken. Reduce the sauce until a spoon drawn across the pan leaves a track that stays open for a second.

Frying the eggplant. Eggplant is a sponge and fried slices carry oil into the layers, where it separates during the bake and makes the bread greasy rather than tender. Salt the slices and roast them instead.

Skipping the rest. Cut straight from the oven, the lasagnetta slumps and the layers slide apart. Ten minutes lets the melted pecorino set enough to hold a clean square.

Overloading the cheese. A thick blanket of pecorino in every layer pushes the dish towards salt and rubber and hides the eggplant. Keep it to a scatter and save the rest for the top.

Overlapping the sheets too heavily. Doubled bread at the seams stays denser than everywhere else and shows up as a hard band in the finished slice. Break the sheets to fit the dish and butt the pieces up instead.


Wine Pairing


Cannonau di Sardegna DOC: The island red and the natural choice. Its soft tannin and dried Mediterranean herb character sit comfortably against roasted eggplant, while the fruit has enough weight to meet aged pecorino without either side winning. Choose a young unoaked bottling and serve it a little cool, around 59°F (15°C), so the alcohol does not push the salt forward.

Vermentino di Gallura DOCG: The white answer, grown on decomposed granite in the north of the island. Its saline bite and firm citrus acidity cut the fat of the melted cheese and reset the palate between forkfuls, and the faintly bitter almond finish runs alongside the eggplant rather than against it. Enough texture to stand up to a baked dish without needing oak.

Nuragus di Cagliari DOC: The lighter everyday white of the Campidano plain, and the bottle least likely to get in the way. High acidity, modest alcohol and quiet green apple fruit make it a refresher rather than a partner, which is exactly what a dish with four assertive components often wants. Pour it cold and do not expect it to make a statement.

Alghero DOC: The Catalan corner of Sardinia, and a useful middle ground. In its dry white form it has more body and riper fruit than Nuragus, with a softer acidity that suits the sweetness of roasted eggplant, while the reds carry a rounder, warmer profile than Cannonau. Either works, and the white is the safer choice at the table.

Etna Rosso DOC: An off island alternative that earns its place. Nerello Mascalese from the volcano gives pale colour, high acidity and fine dusty tannin, a combination that handles tomato far better than most reds and keeps the pecorino from tasting heavy. Serve at 57°F (14°C) and it behaves almost like a white with structure.


Storage & Reheating


Baked and cooled, the lasagnetta keeps covered in the refrigerator for 3 days and cuts better cold than warm. Bring portions to room temperature for 20 minutes before reheating. Unbaked, the assembled dish holds refrigerated for 1 day and goes into the oven from cold with about 10 extra minutes under foil.

Reheat covered with foil at 350°F (175°C) for 15 to 18 minutes, then uncover for a final 4 or 5 minutes to bring the top back. A splash of water or broth in the base protects the bottom layer, which dries first. Avoid the microwave: the rehydrated bread goes leathery wherever it gets too hot.

The dish freezes acceptably, baked, cooled and wrapped tightly, for up to 2 months, though the bread loses some definition. Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator rather than going straight from frozen. Undipped pane carasau keeps for months in a dry cupboard, which is the whole point of the bread.


Nutrition


Per serving, based on 4 servings:

  • Calories: 610 kcal

  • Total Fat: 33 g

  • Saturated Fat: 13 g

  • Trans Fat: 0.5 g

  • Unsaturated Fat: 18 g

  • Cholesterol: 55 mg

  • Sodium: 1150 mg

  • Total Carbohydrates: 52 g

  • Fiber: 8 g

  • Total Sugars: 12 g

  • Added Sugars: 0 g

  • Protein: 25 g

  • Lactose: 1.8 g

  • Principal micronutrients: calcium, phosphorus, potassium, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, manganese

These figures are estimates. Sodium is the figure most likely to vary, since it depends on how salty the dipping liquid was and on whether Pecorino Sardo or the saltier Romano was used.


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