Ricciola Scottata con Ceci, Cipolla Rossa e Capperi (Italian Mediterranean Amberjack with Chickpea Cream, Red Onion and Caper Powder)
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 20 hours ago
La ricciola è un pesce magnifico, carnoso, elegante e con una struttura che permette una cottura aggressiva all'esterno mantenendo il cuore estremamente succoso. In questo piatto la abbiniamo alla cremosità dei ceci, alla dolcezza della cipolla rossa e alla sapidità concentrata dei capperi.
Serves: 4 Preparation: 40 minutes Cooking: 35 minutes
Story of the Dish La ricciola, Seriola dumerili, è uno dei grandi predatori del Mediterraneo ed è particolarmente apprezzata nella cucina delle regioni costiere italiane. La sua caratteristica più interessante in cucina è la consistenza. A differenza di pesci bianchi molto delicati, la ricciola possiede una carne compatta, succosa e abbastanza ricca da sopportare temperature elevate durante la rosolatura. Per questo motivo non voglio trattarla come un normale filetto di pesce bianco. La filosofia del piatto è quasi quella utilizzata per una bistecca: superficie fortemente caramellizzata, interno morbido e succoso, riposo breve prima del servizio. I ceci creano una base cremosa e mediterranea. Il rosmarino porta una nota balsamica. La cipolla introduce dolcezza e acidità. I capperi essiccati diventano invece un vero condimento, quasi una polvere di mare.
Ingredients For the Amberjack: 4 center cut amberjack portions, approximately 6 oz each; 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil; 1 garlic clove, lightly crushed; 2 sprigs fresh thyme; kosher salt; freshly ground black pepper; 1 tsp fresh lemon juice. For the Rosemary Chickpea Cream: 2 cups cooked chickpeas, drained; 1 small shallot, finely sliced; 1 garlic clove; 1 small rosemary sprig; 1 1/4 cups light vegetable or fish stock; 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil; 1 tsp fresh lemon juice; kosher salt; white pepper. For the Caramelized Red Onion: 1 large red onion; 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil; 1 tbsp unsalted butter; 1 tbsp brown sugar; 2 tbsp red wine vinegar; 2 tbsp water; pinch of sea salt. For the Caper Powder: 1/2 cup salt packed capers. For Finishing: extra virgin olive oil; fresh rosemary tips; microgreens, optional; fresh lemon zest.
Preparing the Caper Powder Rinse the capers thoroughly under cold running water to remove excessive salt. Soak them in fresh water for approximately 15 minutes. Drain and dry extremely well. Preheat the oven to 225°F. Spread the capers onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Dry them slowly for approximately 60 to 90 minutes, depending on their size. They should become completely dry and brittle. Allow them to cool. Transfer to a spice grinder and pulse until you obtain a coarse powder. Do not reduce them completely to dust. A slightly irregular texture gives the garnish more character. Taste the powder. It will be intensely savory, so use it like seasoning rather than as a major component.
Caramelized Red Onion Slice the onion very thinly. Heat the olive oil and butter over medium low heat. Add the onion and a small pinch of salt. Cook slowly for approximately 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. The onion should soften without burning. Add the brown sugar. Cook for another 2 minutes. Deglaze with the red wine vinegar. Add the water. Reduce the heat and continue cooking until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. The onion should become glossy, sweet and lightly acidic. Taste carefully. The acidity is important because it will cut through the natural richness of the ricciola and chickpeas. Reserve warm.
Rosemary Chickpea Cream Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a saucepan. Add the shallot, garlic and rosemary. Sweat gently without browning. Add the chickpeas. Cook for approximately 2 minutes so they absorb the aromatics. Add the stock. Simmer gently for approximately 10 minutes. Remove the rosemary sprig. Transfer the chickpeas and cooking liquid to a high speed blender. Begin blending. Slowly incorporate the remaining olive oil. Continue blending until completely smooth. Add the lemon juice. Season with salt and white pepper. Pass through a fine mesh strainer. This step is important. A rustic chickpea puree is delicious, but for this particular presentation we want something closer to a silky restaurant sauce. If necessary, adjust the consistency with additional warm stock. The cream should hold its shape on the plate but remain fluid enough to spread with a spoon.
Preparing the Ricciola Check carefully for bones. Pat the portions completely dry. If the skin is attached, keep it. The skin provides additional texture and protects the flesh during cooking. Remove the fish from refrigeration approximately 10 to 15 minutes before cooking. Season with salt immediately before it enters the pan.
Cooking the Ricciola Heat a heavy skillet over medium high heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot but not smoking aggressively, place the ricciola into the pan. If using skin on portions, begin skin side down. Press gently for approximately 15 seconds to prevent curling. Cook without moving the fish for approximately 3 minutes. You want a deep golden crust. Turn carefully. Add the crushed garlic and thyme. Cook the second side for approximately 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, depending on thickness. During the final 30 seconds, tilt the pan slightly and spoon the aromatic oil over the fish. Remove immediately. Add only a few drops of lemon juice. Rest for approximately 2 minutes.
Temperature and Cooking Science Ricciola is particularly unforgiving when severely overcooked. Its beautiful succulent texture begins disappearing as moisture is driven from the muscle fibers. For a restaurant style result, I prefer removing the fish when the center reaches approximately 125 to 130°F, depending on the quality, thickness and desired doneness. Carryover cooking will continue during resting. The center should remain moist and slightly translucent rather than becoming completely chalk white. If you prefer the fish fully cooked through, take it slightly higher while still avoiding excessive cooking.
Final Balance Before plating, taste the chickpea cream again. It should be savory but not heavily salted because the caper powder will provide additional salinity. Taste the onions. They should have sweetness from slow cooking, acidity from the vinegar, and natural savory depth from the onion itself. When those components are balanced, very little additional seasoning is necessary.
Michelin Style Plating Place a generous spoonful of rosemary chickpea cream slightly off center. Using the back of the spoon, create one clean sweep across the plate. Place the ricciola partially over the cream. Arrange a small amount of caramelized red onion beside the fish rather than covering it. Sprinkle a very small amount of caper powder directly around the ricciola. Do not coat the entire plate. Finish with a few drops of excellent extra virgin olive oil. Add tiny rosemary tips or microgreens. Finish with an almost invisible amount of freshly grated lemon zest. The plating should remain natural rather than excessively architectural.
Wine Pairing Etna Bianco DOC. A mineral Sicilian white based primarily on Carricante works beautifully here. The volcanic minerality and acidity contrast with the richness of the ricciola and chickpea cream, while the wine has enough structure to stand beside the caramelized onion and capers. Serve approximately 48 to 50°F. Another excellent choice would be a high quality Vermentino di Gallura DOCG.
Chef Tips Do not marinate the ricciola in lemon before cooking. Extended exposure to acid changes the proteins on the surface and interferes with the clean sear we want. Dry fish is essential for proper caramelization. Do not continuously move the fish around the pan. Put it down and allow the heat to create the crust. Use rosemary carefully. Chickpeas love rosemary, but too much makes the puree medicinal. The caper powder is effectively concentrated seasoning. Add it only after tasting the entire dish. The red onion should never become jam like and excessively sweet. Acidity is what keeps the plate alive.
Chef Gianluca's Recommendation If you want to take this preparation one level higher, reserve approximately half a cup of whole cooked chickpeas before making the puree. Dry them thoroughly and roast them with a very small amount of extra virgin olive oil until crisp. Add just five or six crispy chickpeas to each finished plate. Now the same ingredient appears in two completely different textures: silky underneath the ricciola and crunchy around it. That small contrast changes the experience of the entire dish. The objective is not to add twenty different ingredients. The objective is to take a few Mediterranean ingredients and extract everything possible from them.
Common Mistakes
For Ricciola Scottata con Ceci, Cipolla Rossa e Capperi, avoid overcooking the fish, using a wet surface when searing, or letting crisp skin sit in sauce before service. Prepare all accompaniments first and cook the fish last.
Professional Technique
For Ricciola Scottata con Ceci, Cipolla Rossa e Capperi (Italian Mediterranean Amberjack with Chickpea Cream, Red Onion and Caper Powder), fish cookery depends on moisture and carryover heat. Dry the surface before searing or roasting, season shortly before cooking, and remove the fish when the center is just set. Sauces, purées and vegetable garnishes should be ready first. Rest briefly before plating so the juices stabilize without allowing the fish to cool.
Storage and Reheating
Cooked fish is best eaten the day it is prepared. Refrigerate leftovers promptly and use within 1 to 2 days. Reheat very gently in a low oven, covered, only until warm. Avoid microwaving delicate fillets because it dries the flesh and intensifies fish aromas.
Nutrition per Serving
Approximate nutrition per serving: Calories 470; Protein 38 g; Carbohydrates 28 g; Fat 24 g; Saturated Fat 6 g; Fiber 5 g; Sugars 7 g; Sodium 680 mg; Cholesterol 105 mg.
Comments