Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria is one of downtown New York’s more convincing expressions of Italian food culture, built around bread, salumi, pasta, wine, and a real market philosophy. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.

L’Osteria is a convincing Upper East Side neighborhood Italian restaurant built around handmade pasta, straightforward cooking, strong service, and defensible Manhattan pricing. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.

Forsythia is a serious Roman influenced Italian restaurant with very good pasta, an excellent Italian wine program, strong service, and a clear identity. Final rating: 3.5 out of 5.