Burro alla Salvia e Nocciola (Italian Sage Hazelnut Butter)

44 minutes ago
3 min read

Story of the Dish

Sage, butter and hazelnuts naturally speak the language of northern Italian cooking, but this preparation is a professional compound butter rather than a claim to a historical regional recipe. Its central idea is controlled toasting.

Fresh sage can become medicinal when used raw in excess. Gentle frying in a small portion of butter makes the leaves crisp and perfumes the fat. Hazelnuts are toasted separately to develop their nutty, praline-like depth.

Only part of the butter is browned. Once cooled, that hazelnut-colored butter is reincorporated into fresh softened butter, creating two layers of dairy flavor while preserving the dense texture of a proper finishing butter.

Ingredients

7 oz (200 g) high quality unsalted butter
1 oz (28 g) toasted hazelnuts, preferably Italian
10 to 12 fresh sage leaves, about 0.15 oz (4 g)
0.5 oz (15 g) Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
1/2 tsp (1 g) finely grated lemon zest
1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Fine sea salt only if needed after tasting

Preparation

1. Divide the Butter

Reserve about 1 oz (28 g) butter for browning and keep the remaining 6 oz (172 g) for the final compound butter.

2. Toast the Hazelnuts

Toast at 325°F (165°C) for 8 to 12 minutes until fragrant and lightly golden. Rub away loose skins and cool completely.

3. Create Two Nut Textures

Grind half to a coarse meal and finely chop the rest. Do not process long enough to create hazelnut paste.

4. Fry the Sage and Brown the Butter

Melt the reserved butter over medium low heat, add sage and cook until crisp while the milk solids turn golden hazelnut brown. Remove sage and take the butter off the heat immediately.

5. Cool and Recombine

Cool the brown butter until soft and opaque. Crush the crispy sage. Temper the fresh butter to 64°F to 68°F (18°C to 20°C), then fold in brown butter, hazelnuts and sage.

6. Finish and Rest

Fold in finely grated Parmigiano, lemon zest and pepper. Taste before salting. Shape in parchment and refrigerate at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.

Professional Technique

Brown Only Part of the Butter

Browning all the butter would change its structure. Browning about 14 percent gives toasted flavor while fresh butter preserves plasticity.

Fry Sage in Butter

The sage becomes crisp while its fat-soluble aromas perfume the butter.

Toast Hazelnuts Properly

Raw hazelnuts lack the roasted depth that defines this preparation, but dark roasting creates bitterness.

Parmigiano Is a Seasoning

A restrained quantity adds umami and salt without turning the preparation into cheese spread.

Lemon Zest Controls Richness

A small amount of citrus oil makes the finish feel lighter without adding unnecessary water.

Chef Tips

For pumpkin ravioli, melt gently and finish with Parmigiano and extra toasted hazelnuts.
For gnocchi, emulsify with a spoonful of cooking water.
For risotto, use during final mantecatura off direct heat.
For pork or veal, place about 1/3 oz (10 g) on rested meat.
For roasted squash or potatoes, add only after the vegetables are fully cooked.