Vegan Smoked Seitan Carpaccio with Celery and Hazelnuts, Reinterpreted | Carpaccio di Seitan Affumicato Rivisitato
The original carpaccio, created at Harry's Bar in Venice, is raw beef sliced paper thin; this antipasto is a vegan reinterpretation of the classic, not the original recipe. It applies the Italian idea of carpaccio, an ingredient sliced as thin as paper and dressed at the last moment, to a seitan made and smoked at home. The seitan is seasoned with lemon zest, thyme and white pepper, steamed into a tight, fine-grained log, smoked briefly over cherry wood on the stovetop and chilled until it can be cut almost transparent. Laid flat on a cold plate, it is dressed with a lemon and mustard emulsion, crisp celery heart, capers and toasted Piedmont hazelnuts. It is light, precise and elegant, a starter that opens a meal rather than filling it, and it is a different preparation from a smoked seitan roast: here everything is built for thinness and freshness.
Yield: 6 servings as an antipasto. Prep: 45 minutes, plus 24 hours chilling. Cook: 1 hour 40 minutes. Rest: 10 minutes. Course: antipasto. Region: Italy, after the Venetian carpaccio.
The Story
Carpaccio was born in Venice in 1950, at Harry's Bar, the restaurant founded by Giuseppe Cipriani. The story told by the Cipriani family is that a regular guest, the countess Amalia Nani Mocenigo, had been told by her doctors to avoid cooked meat, and Cipriani prepared for her the original plate of raw beef sliced paper thin, dressed with a light mayonnaise-based sauce drawn over it in a fine lattice. That year Venice was hosting an exhibition of the Renaissance painter Vittore Carpaccio, famous for his deep reds, and Cipriani named the dish after him. In a few decades it traveled from the Grand Canal to restaurant menus all over the world.
The word soon outgrew the original recipe. In Italian kitchens today, carpaccio means a technique more than a single dish: any ingredient sliced so thin that it can be dressed raw or nearly raw and eaten in one bite, from porcini and zucchini to fruit. What defines it is the knife work, the cold plate and a dressing that seasons without hiding. This recipe uses that technique with a plant-based protein, and it must be said clearly that neither the original carpaccio nor seitan comes from the same tradition.
Seitan comes from Asia. Wheat gluten, the protein that remains when a dough is washed until the starch is gone, has a long history in the vegetarian cooking of Chinese Buddhist monasteries, and the name seitan was given in Japan in the twentieth century within the macrobiotic movement, which carried it to Europe. In Italy it became familiar in recent decades through natural food shops and vegetarian restaurants. Its strength in this dish is its structure: once steamed tightly and chilled, it can be sliced as thin as a cured salume.
The Italian identity of the plate is in the dressing and the garnish. Lemon, good olive oil and a touch of mustard recall the bright, sharp sauce of the first carpaccio. Celery heart and capers are classic companions of thin-sliced antipasti in northern Italy, and the hazelnuts come from Piedmont, where the Nocciola Piemonte IGP, the Tonda Gentile variety, is grown in the Langhe and Roero hills. The smoke, short and gentle, adds depth to a protein that would otherwise be neutral, and the long chilling makes the slicing precise.
Ingredients
For this carpaccio, the seitan must be firm and fine grained, so the quality of the vital wheat gluten matters: buy a fresh pack from a shop with good turnover, labeled vital wheat gluten, about 75 percent protein. Cherry or apple wood chips give a light, slightly fruity smoke suited to a cold antipasto; choose the finest chips or sawdust for stovetop smoking. The celery should be the pale inner heart with its yellow leaves, crisp and sweet. Buy hazelnuts already skinned if possible, and use a delicate, fruity extra virgin olive oil from the Lake Garda or Liguria area, which does not overpower the smoke.
For the seitan
Vital wheat gluten, 1 3/4 cups (245 g)
Chickpea flour, 1/4 cup (30 g)
Nutritional yeast flakes, 2 tbsp (8 g)
Fresh thyme leaves, 2 tsp (2 g)
Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
Ground white pepper, 1/2 tsp (1 g)
Onion powder, 1 tsp (3 g)
Cold vegetable broth, unsalted, 3/4 cup plus 2 tbsp (210 ml)
Light soy sauce or tamari, 2 tbsp (30 ml)
Extra virgin olive oil, 2 tbsp (30 ml)
White miso or fine sea salt, 1 tsp (6 g)
For smoking
Fine cherry or apple wood chips, 3 tbsp (about 15 g)
Dried rosemary, 1 tsp
Extra virgin olive oil, 1 tsp (5 ml), to brush
For the lemon mustard dressing
Fresh lemon juice, 2 tbsp (30 ml)
Dijon-style mustard, 1 1/2 tsp (8 g)
Extra virgin olive oil, delicate, 1/3 cup (80 ml)
Fine sea salt, 1/4 tsp (1.5 g), and ground white pepper
Cold water, 1 tsp (5 ml)
For the garnish
Celery heart, 2 inner stalks with leaves, 3 oz (85 g)
Salted capers, rinsed and soaked, 1 tbsp (9 g)
Skinned hazelnuts, 1/3 cup (45 g)
Baby arugula, a small handful (15 g)
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preparation
Step 1
Make a fine dough. In a large bowl, whisk the vital wheat gluten, the chickpea flour, the nutritional yeast, the thyme, the lemon zest, the white pepper and the onion powder. In a jug, whisk the cold broth with the soy sauce, the olive oil and the miso until smooth. Pour the liquid into the dry mix and stir with a spatula for 1 minute, then knead on the counter for 2 minutes, until the dough is smooth and firm. This dough is slightly drier than one for a roast, which gives a tighter, finer crumb: exactly what is needed for slices thin enough to see light through.
Step 2
Shape a tight log. Roll the dough into a cylinder about 2 1/2 inches (6 cm) in diameter and 9 inches (23 cm) long, pressing firmly to expel every air pocket, which would become a hole in the slices. Wrap it very tightly in parchment paper, then in a double layer of foil, and twist the ends hard in opposite directions, so the log is compressed like a salume. A narrow, compressed log gives small, round, even slices, the shape of a classic carpaccio, and the pressure during cooking prevents the seitan from expanding into a spongy texture.
Step 3
Steam the seitan. Steam the wrapped log over a steady simmer for 70 minutes, turning it once after 35 minutes. Keep the water at a gentle simmer, adding hot water as needed. The center should reach about 200°F (93°C). Steaming in the wrapping cooks the seitan evenly with moist heat while keeping the water out; seitan cooked loose in broth would swell and open its crumb, and thin slices would tear.
Step 4
Smoke on the stovetop. Unwrap the log while still warm, pat it dry and brush it lightly with 1 tsp (5 ml) of olive oil. Line the bottom of a wide, old pot with a double layer of foil and scatter the wood chips and the dried rosemary in the center. Set a wire rack about 2 inches (5 cm) above them, place the seitan on the rack, cover the pot with foil and then the lid. Heat over medium until the first wisps of smoke appear, about 4 to 5 minutes, then lower the heat and smoke for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the pot closed for 10 minutes more. Open it outdoors or under a strong hood. Short smoking on a warm surface is enough here: the slices will be very thin, and every slice is mostly surface.
Step 5
Chill for 24 hours. Let the seitan cool to room temperature, wrap it tightly in plastic film and refrigerate it for at least 24 hours, ideally 36. Then, 30 minutes before slicing, place it in the freezer. Cold firms the gluten network and sets the oil in the dough, which is what allows clean slices of about 1/32 inch (1 mm). The long rest also lets the smoke aroma spread from the surface toward the center, so the inner slices are as fragrant as the outer ones.
Step 6
Prepare the dressing and the garnish. Whisk the lemon juice with the mustard, the salt and a pinch of white pepper, then pour in the olive oil in a thin stream while whisking, and finish with the cold water to make a smooth, pourable emulsion. Toast the hazelnuts in a dry pan over medium-low heat for 6 to 8 minutes until golden, cool them and chop them coarsely. Slice the celery stalks very thinly on the bias and keep them in ice water for 10 minutes, then dry them well; the cold water makes them crisp and curled. Pick the pale celery leaves and keep them aside. Pat the capers dry.
Step 7
Slice paper thin. Using a meat slicer set to its thinnest setting, a mandoline with a guard or a long, very sharp slicing knife, cut the cold seitan into slices about 1/32 inch (1 mm) thick. With a knife, use the full length of the blade in one long stroke, without sawing. Lay the slices directly on chilled plates, in a single overlapping layer that covers the center of the plate in a circle, or between two sheets of parchment if you slice ahead. Thin, cold slices release the smoke and the herbs at once on the palate, while thicker ones feel chewy.
Plating
Chill the plates in the refrigerator for 20 minutes, to about 40°F (4°C): carpaccio must be served cold, and a room-temperature plate warms the thin slices in seconds. Arrange about 2 oz (55 g) of seitan per plate in overlapping rings from the center outward, leaving a clean rim. Press each slice lightly with a finger so it lies flat.
Just before serving, drizzle the dressing over the slices in fine lines from a spoon, or brush it on for a more even coat, about 1 tbsp (15 ml) per plate. Scatter the curled celery, the capers, the hazelnuts and a few leaves of arugula and celery, then finish with flaky salt and a turn of black pepper. Dress at the last moment: acid and salt draw moisture from the slices and soften them within minutes. The guest eats it with a fork, folding a slice around a little celery and hazelnut for each bite.
Professional Technique
The key number is the slice thickness: about 1/32 inch (1 mm). At that thickness the seitan becomes tender, almost silky, and every slice carries a balanced amount of smoke, dressing and garnish. At 1/8 inch (3 mm), the same seitan is chewy and the dish feels heavy. The narrow log, the drier dough and the long chilling all serve this one goal.
The hidden variable is temperature at slicing. Seitan at refrigerator temperature can be sliced thin; seitan partly firmed in the freezer for 30 minutes can be sliced thinner and cleaner, because the cold stiffens the protein and keeps the slices from dragging under the blade. Do not freeze it solid: frozen seitan shatters and the slices crack at the edges.
The doneness test comes at two stages. After steaming, the log is firm and springy and reads about 200°F (93°C) in the center. After chilling, a test slice should hold together when lifted by one edge, show a tight, even crumb with no holes and taste clearly of smoke and lemon. If it tears, chill it longer; if it is full of holes, the dough was not compressed enough.
Slicing and Seasoning Control
A carpaccio lives on contrast. The seitan is cold, dense and gently smoky; the dressing is bright and sharp; the celery is crisp and watery; the hazelnuts are warm-tasting and crunchy; the capers add bursts of salt. Each element is used in small amounts so that no one dominates. Weigh the components when you first make the dish, and adjust after tasting a full bite with everything on the fork.
Seasoning must account for thinness. A very thin slice has a huge surface relative to its volume, so it absorbs salt and acid fast. The dough is seasoned moderately for that reason, and the dressing is applied lightly. Taste a dressed slice after 1 minute, which is the time it will spend on the table before the first bite, and correct the dressing, not the seitan.
The emulsion protects the slices. Mustard holds the oil and lemon together, so the dressing coats the seitan evenly instead of separating into pools of acid that would soften it in patches. The spoonful of cold water loosens the emulsion so it spreads thin. Whisk it again just before serving, because even a stable dressing separates slightly as it stands.
Professional Mise en Place
The seitan is made two days before service, the garnish an hour before, and the slicing and dressing happen at the last moment. In a professional kitchen, slices are cut before service and kept between sheets of parchment in the refrigerator, then plated and dressed to order.
Equipment and tools
Kitchen scale, large bowl, spatula, parchment paper, heavy foil, plastic film
Pot with steamer basket, wide old pot with wire rack for smoking
Meat slicer, mandoline with guard or long slicing knife
Small whisk, small skillet, bowl of ice water, chilled plates
Prepared ahead
Seitan steamed, smoked and chilled, 1 to 4 days ahead, wrapped tightly
Hazelnuts toasted and chopped, up to 2 days ahead, in a jar
Dressing whisked, up to 1 day ahead, refrigerated; whisk again before use
Celery sliced and crisped in ice water, within 1 hour of service
Service setup
Plates chilled to about 40°F (4°C)
Seitan sliced and layered between parchment, in the refrigerator
Dressing in a small jug with a spoon or brush
Celery, capers, hazelnuts, arugula and leaves in small bowls; flaky salt and pepper mill
Chef Tips
If you do not have a slicer, ask a trusted deli to slice the chilled log for you on their machine, or slice it as thin as you can with a knife and then press each slice gently between two sheets of parchment with the flat of a heavy knife or a small rolling pin. The pressure thins and widens it.
For a more festive version, add a few shavings of black truffle in season, or a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar of Modena in place of part of the lemon. Both work with the smoke, but use them sparingly so the plate stays light.
The trimmings and the two ends of the log are perfect for other uses. Dice them and brown them in olive oil for a pasta with peas and mint, or blend them with herbs and a little olive oil for a spread on toasted bread.
Prepare an extra log. Wrapped and chilled, the smoked seitan keeps for several days and can be sliced to order, so you can serve the carpaccio more than once in a week with only minutes of work.
Common Mistakes
Using a loose dough. Too much liquid gives a soft, open crumb that tears when sliced thin. Measure by weight and keep this dough slightly drier than for a roast.
Not compressing the log. Air pockets become holes in every slice. Roll firmly and twist the wrapping tight.
Boiling the seitan unwrapped. It swells and becomes spongy. Steam it tightly wrapped.
Smoking it too long. Thin slices concentrate the smoke. Twenty minutes on the stovetop is enough.
Slicing it warm. Warm seitan crumbles and drags under the blade. Chill it for 24 hours and firm it in the freezer before slicing.
Using warm plates. The slices soften and lose their sheen. Chill the plates.
Dressing too early. Acid and salt soften the slices on the plate. Dress just before serving.
Wine Pairing
Franciacorta DOCG: The traditional-method sparkling wine of Lombardy, mainly from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. Its fine bubbles and fresh acidity cleanse the palate after the olive oil and lift the lemon and smoke; it is a natural opening to a meal. Serve it at about 46°F (8°C).
Roero Arneis DOCG: A white from the Roero hills of Piedmont, the same area that grows the hazelnuts on the plate, with pear, white flowers and an almond finish. Its soft texture and gentle acidity suit the delicate seitan and the celery. Serve it at about 50°F (10°C).
Bardolino DOC: A light red from the eastern shore of Lake Garda, based on Corvina, with red cherry and spice and very little tannin. It can be served cool and does not overwhelm a cold antipasto, while its fruit meets the cherry wood smoke. Serve it at about 57°F (14°C).
Alto Adige Pinot Nero DOC: An elegant red from the mountain vineyards of Alto Adige, with small red berries, a light earthiness and fine tannins. Its delicacy and freshness match the gentle smoke without weighing on the thin slices. Serve it at about 59°F (15°C).
Storage & Reheating
Refrigerator: the whole smoked log, tightly wrapped, keeps for up to 5 days; slice it only when needed, because cut slices dry out at the edges within hours. Sliced seitan, layered between parchment and wrapped, keeps for 1 day. The dressing keeps for 2 days in a closed jar. Once dressed, the carpaccio should be eaten at once. Freezer: the unsliced log freezes well for up to 2 months, wrapped airtight; thaw it in the refrigerator for 24 hours before slicing, and expect a slightly softer texture.
This dish is not reheated: it is served cold. If you have leftover undressed slices, use them in a sandwich with arugula and a little dressing, or cut them into ribbons and toss them into a warm pasta at the last moment, off the heat, so they warm through without drying.
Nutrition
Per serving, based on 6 servings:
Calories: 310 kcal
Total Fat: 21 g
Saturated Fat: 2.5 g
Trans Fat: 0 g
Unsaturated Fat: 18 g
Cholesterol: 0 mg
Sodium: 620 mg
Total Carbohydrates: 10 g
Fiber: 2 g
Total Sugars: 1 g
Added Sugars: 0 g
Protein: 22 g
Principal micronutrients: iron, selenium, vitamin E, manganese, vitamin K, phosphorus
These figures are estimates, calculated on the quantities listed and rounded to the nearest whole number, assuming about 2 oz (55 g) of seitan per plate and that part of the log is kept for other uses. They vary with the brand of vital wheat gluten and the amount of dressing used.
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