Penne con Ragù Bianco di Cinghiale, Ginepro e Pecorino Toscano (Italian Penne with White Wild Boar Ragù, Juniper and Tuscan Pecorino)

1 hour ago
4 min read

Story of the Dish

Wild boar is deeply connected to the inland cuisine of Tuscany, especially in the Maremma, Chianti and wooded hills where game has historically been part of the local table. Traditional preparations often rely on long cooking, wine, aromatic herbs and tomato.

This version keeps the unmistakable character of Tuscan cinghiale while removing tomato entirely. The result is a white ragù built from deeply browned wild boar, soffritto, dry red wine, juniper, rosemary and stock.

Juniper is used carefully because its resinous aroma can dominate. A few lightly crushed berries are enough to reinforce the woodland character without making the dish medicinal. Pecorino Toscano is added only at the end, bringing salinity and regional depth.

The penne are cooked until just short of al dente, then completed directly in the pan with ragù and pasta water. The final dish feels unmistakably Tuscan, rustic in flavor but refined in structure.

Ingredients

1 lb (454 g) penne rigate
1 lb (454 g) wild boar shoulder or ground wild boar
3 tbsp (45 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
1 small carrot, finely diced
1 small celery stalk, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
3/4 cup (180 ml) dry Tuscan red wine
1 cup (240 ml) low sodium beef or game stock
4 juniper berries, lightly crushed
1 small sprig fresh rosemary
2 fresh sage leaves
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
3 oz (85 g) Pecorino Toscano, finely grated
1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter
Kosher salt, as needed
1 to 1 1/2 cups (240 to 360 ml) reserved pasta water

Preparation

Brown the wild boar: Heat a wide heavy pan over medium high heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil, season lightly and brown in batches for 6 to 8 minutes until deeply caramelized. Reserve.
Build the soffritto: Reduce heat to medium. Add remaining olive oil, onion, carrot and celery. Cook 5 to 6 minutes until soft and lightly golden. Add garlic for 30 seconds.
Deglaze: Return the wild boar, add red wine, scrape the fond and reduce the wine by about two thirds.
Add aromatics: Add juniper, rosemary, sage and bay leaf and stir briefly to release their aroma.
Braise: Add stock, bring to a gentle simmer, partially cover and cook over low heat for 40 to 45 minutes until tender and concentrated.
Refine the ragù: Remove rosemary, sage, bay and visible juniper pieces. Break larger pieces of meat into small irregular shreds. Reduce uncovered if the sauce is loose.
Cook the penne: Boil until about 2 minutes before al dente and reserve at least 1 1/2 cups pasta water.
Finish in the pan: Add penne to the ragù with about 1/2 cup pasta water and toss over medium high heat until glossy and coated.
Finish off the heat: Add butter and about two thirds of the Pecorino Toscano. Toss vigorously and adjust with pasta water if needed.
Plate: Finish with remaining Pecorino Toscano and freshly ground black pepper.

Professional Technique

A successful white game ragù builds depth through browning rather than tomato. The wild boar must create a strong fond before braising, wine must reduce almost completely before stock is added, and juniper must be restrained. The final pasta water emulsion binds meat juices and olive oil so the penne are neither dry nor greasy.

Chef Tips

Use wild boar shoulder when available or a coarse grind if using ground meat. Crush juniper berries lightly instead of grinding them. Use a dry structured Tuscan red wine. Grate Pecorino Toscano finely. If the meat is very lean, add butter only at the finishing stage.

Common Mistakes

Do not overcrowd the pan. Do not use too much juniper. Do not add stock before the wine has reduced. Do not boil the ragù aggressively. Do not fully cook the penne in water. Do not add Pecorino over high heat.

Wine Pairing

Chianti Classico: Acidity and savory character work naturally with wild boar and Pecorino Toscano.
Morellino di Scansano: A classic Maremma pairing with fruit and structure for game.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: Elegant tannins and earthy notes reinforce the woodland character.
Rosso di Montalcino: Freshness and body stand beside the meat without becoming too heavy.
Carmignano: Herbal and savory notes work especially well with juniper and rosemary.

Nutrition per Serving

Calories: 790 kcal • Protein: 42 g • Carbohydrates: 89 g • Fat: 29 g • Saturated Fat: 11 g • Fiber: 5 g • Sugars: 5 g • Sodium: 860 mg • Cholesterol: 112 mg

Storage and Reheating

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat gently with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water. Add fresh Pecorino Toscano after reheating. The wild boar ragù can be frozen separately for up to 2 months.

Chef Gianluca Deiana