Tomaxelle (Italian Ligurian Veal Rolls)

Tomaxelle (Italian Ligurian Veal Rolls)

Story of the Dish

Tomaxelle, also written tomaselle or tomaxælle, are traditional Genoese veal rolls filled with a savory mixture of meat, bread, dried mushrooms, pine nuts, cheese and aromatic herbs. The dish reflects the Ligurian ability to turn small quantities and leftovers into food with remarkable depth. Thin veal slices become the wrapper, while cooked meat and bread are transformed into a rich filling that remains moist during braising.

The recipe is associated with Genoa and appears in several historical forms. Earlier household versions often used leftover boiled or roasted meat, and some included chard. Dried mushrooms later became a prized addition, giving the filling an earthy aroma that remains strongly connected to Ligurian cooking. Pine nuts, Parmigiano, parsley and marjoram complete the regional profile without turning the filling heavy.

Although Tomaxelle are commonly served as a secondo, they can be presented in smaller portions as a substantial antipasto. For that service, make compact rolls and serve one or two per person with only enough sauce to glaze the plate. The purpose is to preserve the character of the dish while keeping the portion appropriate at the beginning of a meal.

The best Tomaxelle are tender, clearly rolled and moist inside. The filling should hold together without becoming dense, the veal wrapper should remain succulent, and the sauce should taste of wine, porcini and meat rather than excessive tomato. Controlled browning and gentle braising are more important than complicated plating.

Ingredients

• 8 thin veal cutlets, about 1 1/2 lb (680 g) total

• 7 oz (200 g) cooked lean veal, finely chopped, or ground veal browned and cooled

• 1 oz (30 g) dried porcini mushrooms

• 1 cup (60 g) soft crumb from day old country bread

• 1/2 cup (120 ml) unsalted beef or veal stock, for soaking the bread

• 2 tbsp (20 g) pine nuts, lightly toasted and finely chopped

• 1/2 cup (50 g) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano

• 1 large egg, about 1 3/4 oz (50 g) without shell

• 2 tbsp (8 g) finely chopped Italian parsley

• 1 tbsp (3 g) fresh marjoram leaves, finely chopped

• 1/8 tsp (0.3 g) freshly grated nutmeg

• 1 small pinch ground cloves

• 1 tsp (6 g) fine sea salt, divided

• 1/2 tsp (1 g) freshly ground black pepper, divided

• 2 tbsp (16 g) all purpose flour, for a very light dusting

• 2 tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil

• 2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter

• 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine

• 1 cup (240 ml) tomato passata

• 3/4 cup (180 ml) unsalted beef or veal stock, plus more if needed

Preparation

1. Place the dried porcini in a bowl and cover them with 1 cup (240 ml) warm water. Soak for 20 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out rather than pouring the bowl, rinse them briefly to remove grit and chop them finely. Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or several layers of cheesecloth and reserve 1/2 cup (120 ml).

2. Put the bread crumb in a bowl and add only enough of the 1/2 cup (120 ml) stock to soften it. Rest for 5 minutes, then squeeze gently. The bread should be moist but not dripping; excess liquid makes the filling escape during braising.

3. Combine the chopped cooked veal, porcini, bread, pine nuts, Parmigiano, egg, parsley, marjoram, nutmeg and cloves. Season with half the salt and half the pepper. Mix only until evenly distributed. Fry a teaspoon of filling in a small pan, taste it and correct the seasoning before the rolls are assembled.

4. Lay the veal cutlets between two sheets of parchment and pound them to an even thickness of about 1/8 inch (3 mm). Trim only irregular heavy edges. Season the inner surface lightly with the remaining salt and pepper.

5. Divide the filling into eight compact portions. Place one portion near the lower third of each cutlet, leaving a clean border. Fold the sides inward, roll firmly and secure each Tomaxella with a wooden toothpick or kitchen twine. Do not overfill; the filling expands slightly as the egg sets.

6. Dust the rolls very lightly with flour and shake away all excess. Heat the olive oil and butter in a wide heavy skillet over medium high heat. Brown the rolls in batches, starting with the seam side, until golden on all sides, about 6 to 8 minutes total. Transfer them to a warm plate.

7. Lower the heat to medium, pour in the white wine and scrape the browned deposits from the pan. Reduce by about half, until the raw alcohol aroma has disappeared. Add the passata, the reserved porcini liquid and 3/4 cup (180 ml) stock. Bring to a gentle simmer.

8. Return the rolls to the skillet in a single layer. Cover partially and braise over low heat for 18 to 22 minutes, turning once. The sauce should move only with small bubbles. Add a few tablespoons of hot stock if it reduces before the veal is tender.

9. Transfer the Tomaxelle to a warm plate and rest for 5 minutes. Remove the toothpicks or twine. Reduce the sauce separately if needed until it lightly coats a spoon, then taste for salt and pepper. Return the rolls briefly to the pan, glaze them with the sauce and serve hot.

Professional Technique

The professional control point is the relationship between wrapper and filling. Uneven cutlets cook unevenly and split at the thickest point, so pounding must create one consistent layer without tearing the meat. The filling must be cool before it touches the veal; warm filling begins cooking the wrapper and weakens the roll before browning.

Test the filling before assembly. Because it contains egg and raw or previously cooked meat, tasting it uncooked is not appropriate. Cook one teaspoon in a small pan, then adjust salt, pepper, herbs and nutmeg. Parmigiano and concentrated porcini both intensify during braising, so seasoning should remain measured.

Browning and braising require different temperatures. Use enough initial heat to create color without burning the flour, then reduce to a quiet simmer once liquid is added. Boiling contracts the veal and forces moisture from the filling. If the meat is tender before the sauce is concentrated, remove the rolls and reduce the sauce alone.

Porcini soaking liquid is valuable but must be filtered carefully. Fine grit is common and can ruin the entire sauce. Stop pouring before the sediment at the bottom of the bowl, even after filtering.

Chef Tips

• Use veal cutlets from the top round or leg and ask for thin, broad slices suitable for involtini.

• Keep the filling slightly soft; bread and egg firm it during cooking.

• Toast pine nuts gently and cool them before chopping.

• Start browning on the seam side to help seal each roll.

• Rest the finished rolls before slicing so the filling remains in place.

Common Mistakes

• Overfilling the cutlets and forcing the filling out during braising.

• Leaving porcini grit in the soaking liquid.

• Using too much flour and creating a pasty sauce.

• Boiling the rolls instead of braising them gently.

• Reducing the sauce with the meat still in the pan after the veal is already tender.

Wine Pairing

• Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC: Its fragrant red fruit, gentle tannin and herbal character complement veal and marjoram without overpowering the filling.

• Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC: A savory Ligurian red with enough freshness for the tomato and enough structure for porcini and Parmigiano.

• Ciliegiolo del Golfo del Tigullio Portofino DOC: Juicy cherry fruit and moderate body create an agile pairing for Tomaxelle served as an antipasto.

• Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC: A textured white option whose saline, herbal profile echoes the Ligurian herbs and refreshes the braising sauce.

• Vermentino Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC: Citrus freshness and Mediterranean aromatics work especially well when the tomato component is restrained.

Storage and Reheating

Cool leftover Tomaxelle promptly and refrigerate them with their sauce in a shallow airtight container for up to 3 days at 40°F (4°C) or below. Keeping the rolls in the sauce protects the veal and prevents the filling from drying. Freeze only if necessary, for up to 1 month; the texture of the filling will be slightly softer after thawing.

Reheat gently in a covered skillet over low heat with 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 ml) stock. Turn the rolls once and heat until the center reaches 165°F (74°C). Do not boil the sauce or use prolonged microwave heat, which can toughen the veal wrapper.

Nutrition per Serving

• Calories: 520

• Protein: 43 g

• Carbohydrates: 18 g

• Fat: 29 g

• Saturated Fat: 10 g

• Fiber: 2 g

• Sugars: 5 g

• Sodium: 690 mg

• Cholesterol: 190 mg

• Values are approximate per serving of two rolls with sauce and vary with cutlet size, stock, cheese and the amount of sauce served.

Chef Gianluca