Artichoke is treated as the center of the plate, not as a side vegetable. The heart is braised and deeply roasted, tender leaves become crisp, and the trimmings are transformed into a concentrated smoked artichoke jus. Pecorino Sardo adds richness while bottarga contributes marine depth without overwhelming the vegetable.

A deeper and more aggressive artichoke preparation: tender braised hearts are finished over intense heat until smoky and caramelized, paired with crisp veal sweetbreads, a Marsala reduction and fresh mint.

Restaurant Joanina is a solid Long Island Italian restaurant with genuine Italian elements, good value, a strong wine program, and a menu that also carries a significant New York Italian American influence. Final rating: 3.0 out of 5.