Traditional Italian Abruzzo Chocolate and Almond Pastries | Bocconotti Abruzzesi
Updated: Sep 13
Bocconotti Abruzzesi are among the most distinctive pastries of Abruzzo, particularly associated with the province of Chieti and with the town of Castel Frentano, where the bocconotto castellino carries a strong and jealously defended local identity. Each one is a small sealed case of sweet shortcrust pastry, fluted on the outside by the mold and completely closed on top, hiding a dark filling of chocolate, toasted almonds, sugar and warm spice. Nothing about the outside announces what is inside. The pastry is pale, matte, dusted with confectioners sugar, and only the first bite reveals the aromatic dark heart.
The name is traditionally connected to boccone, meaning bite or mouthful, and it describes exactly how these pastries are meant to be eaten: in one or two mouthfuls, standing up, with coffee. That small format is not a decorative choice, it is a structural one. A bocconotto has to hold a rich filling inside a thin shell without leaking, without collapsing and without turning soggy, and the only reliable way to do that is to keep the whole thing small, sealed and evenly baked.
Unlike a modern chocolate tart, an authentic Abruzzese bocconotto should never have a liquid or ganache like center. The filling is dense, moist, spoonable when warm and sliceable when cool, intensely aromatic from toasted almonds, cinnamon, cocoa and lemon zest. It sets inside the shell during baking and continues to settle overnight. Getting that balance right, a shell that stays crisp and a filling that stays moist, is the whole technical argument of this recipe.
Serves 12 bocconotti. Prep: 40 minutes. Rest: 30 minutes. Bake: 20 to 25 minutes. Total: about 1 hour 35 minutes.
The Story
Castel Frentano, a hill town in the province of Chieti looking down toward the Adriatic and back toward the Maiella, claims the bocconotto as its own and celebrates it as the bocconotto castellino. Local tradition places the birth of the pastry in the eighteenth century, in the period when chocolate arrived from the Spanish possessions and slowly filtered into the kitchens of the southern Italian nobility and then into the convents and the households that cooked for them. Chocolate at that moment was still an expensive, exotic, faintly medicinal substance, drunk more often than eaten, and enclosing it inside a shell of everyday shortcrust was a way of making a costly ingredient stretch across a whole tray of small pastries.
Abruzzo is not one pastry region but several. Along the coast around Chieti and Lanciano the bocconotto is the chocolate and almond version described here. Move inland and south toward Molise and the same word describes a completely different sweet, filled with grape must jam, sour cherry preserve or a spiced custard. In parts of Calabria and Puglia the bocconotto exists again under the same name with yet another filling. The constant is never the filling, it is the architecture: a small fluted mold, a sweet pastry lining, a sealed lid, and a filling completely hidden until the pastry is broken open.
The pastry itself tells the story of Abruzzese domestic baking. Older village recipes are built on strutto, rendered pork lard, which was what every household had and which produces a shell that is shorter, flakier and slightly savory underneath the sugar. Butter arrived later with urban pastry shops and gives a rounder, sweeter, more uniform crumb that browns more evenly. Both are legitimate. Many families in Castel Frentano still use a mixture of the two, or use lard for the base and butter for the lid, and every household is convinced that its own proportion is the correct one.
Bocconotti belong to the calendar of feasts rather than to the everyday table. They appear at Christmas, at Carnival, at weddings and at the town festivals of late summer, made in large batches and stored in tins where they improve for several days. The tin itself matters to the tradition: these are pastries built to be made in advance, carried, offered to visitors and eaten slowly over a week, which is precisely why the filling is dense rather than fluid and why the shell is sealed rather than open.
Ingredients
Main Components
All purpose flour, 2 1/2 cups (315 g)
Granulated sugar for the pastry, 1/2 cup (100 g)
Unsalted butter softened, 6 tablespoons (85 g)
Large egg yolks for the pastry, 2
Large whole egg, 1
Dark chocolate 60 to 70 percent cocoa finely chopped, 4 oz (115 g)
Finely ground toasted almonds, 1 cup (100 g)
Granulated sugar for the filling, 1/2 cup (100 g)
Water, 1/2 cup (120 ml)
Large egg yolk for the filling, 1
Additional Ingredients
Finely grated lemon zest for the pastry, from 1 lemon
Finely grated lemon zest for the filling, 1 teaspoon
Pure vanilla extract, 1 teaspoon
Ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon
Unsweetened cocoa powder, 1 teaspoon
Fine sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon
Confectioners sugar for dusting, as needed
Softened butter for the molds, as needed
Oven for toasting the almonds, 325°F (165°C)
Oven for baking, 350°F (175°C)
Optional Components
Rendered pork lard replacing half the butter in the pastry, 3 tablespoons (40 g)
Dark rum for the filling, 1 tablespoon (15 ml)
Ground cloves, 1 pinch
Blanched almond halves for pressing into the lids, 12
Preparation: Base Components
Begin with the pastry, because it needs a full rest before it can be rolled thin. Tip the flour onto a cool work surface or into a wide bowl, add the granulated sugar and the fine sea salt, and mix them through the flour thoroughly so the sugar is evenly distributed before any fat goes in. Add the softened butter in small pieces and rub it into the flour with your fingertips, lifting the mixture and letting it fall, until it looks like coarse damp crumbs with no visible lumps of butter. If you are using lard for part of the fat, work it in at the same stage. The fat must be soft but not melted: melted fat coats the flour unevenly and gives a hard, biscuit like shell instead of a short one.
Make a well in the crumb mixture and add the whole egg, the two yolks, the lemon zest and the vanilla extract. Draw the flour into the eggs with your fingers or a fork until the mass comes together, then press it into a single smooth piece with the heel of your hand for no more than fifteen or twenty seconds. This is a frolla, not a bread dough. Kneading develops gluten, and gluten in a bocconotto shell means shrinkage in the mold, a tough bite and a lid that pulls away from the rim during baking. Stop the moment the dough is homogeneous, flatten it into a disk about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, wrap it and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
While the dough rests, toast the almonds. Spread whole blanched almonds in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast at 325°F (165°C) for 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the pan once, until they smell nutty and are the color of pale straw just beginning to turn gold. Do not let them brown deeply: almonds carry residual heat and continue coloring on the hot tray, and a scorched almond will make the entire filling bitter. Cool them completely on a cold plate before grinding, because warm almonds turn to paste in the grinder. Grind in short pulses to a fine, dry, sandy meal, adding a spoonful of the filling sugar if the grinder starts to clump.
Preparation: Assembly
Make the filling next so it has time to cool to the right temperature. Combine the water and the 1/2 cup (100 g) of granulated sugar in a small heavy saucepan and warm over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves completely and the syrup comes to a gentle simmer. Pull the pan off the heat, add the finely chopped dark chocolate and let it sit undisturbed for one minute before stirring. Stir from the center outward until the chocolate has melted into a smooth, glossy, slightly thin mixture. Now add the ground toasted almonds, the cocoa powder, the cinnamon and the lemon zest, and stir until completely uniform. The almond meal will drink the syrup and the mixture will thicken noticeably within a minute.
Let the filling cool until it is barely warm to the back of a finger, around 100°F (38°C), then beat in the egg yolk vigorously and immediately. The yolk is what binds the filling and lets it set into a sliceable mass instead of staying grainy, but it will scramble instantly if the mixture is still hot. If you are using the optional rum, add it now. The finished filling should mound on a spoon and hold its shape, not pour. If it looks loose, let it stand ten minutes longer and it will firm up as the almonds continue absorbing.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and brush 12 small fluted bocconotto molds with softened butter, working the brush into the flutes so nothing sticks in the grooves. Roll about two thirds of the chilled dough to a thickness of 1/8 inch (3 mm) on a lightly floured surface. Cut disks a little wider than the molds, drop one into each, and press the dough into the base and up the fluted sides with your thumb, keeping the thickness even and taking particular care at the angle where the base meets the wall, which is where thin spots and leaks happen. Spoon one generous tablespoon of filling into each shell, leaving a clear margin below the rim so the lid has clean dough to seal against.
Preparation: Finishing
Roll the remaining dough to the same 1/8 inch (3 mm) and cut lids just large enough to reach the rim of each mold. Lay a lid over the filling, then press the two layers of dough together all the way around the rim with your fingertip or the back of a small knife, sealing them properly rather than merely resting one on the other. Run a rolling pin across the top of the mold or trim with a knife to remove the excess, and press once more around the sealed edge. A bocconotto that opens during baking will vent its filling onto the tray, burn where the sugar hits the metal and lose the moisture that keeps the interior soft, so the seal deserves the attention. If you are using the optional almond halves, press one lightly into the center of each lid now.
Arrange the filled molds on a heavy baking sheet, spaced apart so hot air circulates, and bake at 350°F (175°C) for 20 to 25 minutes. The finish you are looking for is pale gold, barely blond at the rim, with the surface dry and matte to the touch. These pastries are not meant to color deeply; a dark shell means the sugar in the frolla has caramelized too far and the almond filling underneath has dried out. Rotate the tray once at the halfway point if your oven bakes unevenly, and start checking at 20 minutes since small molds move quickly from set to overbaked.
Let the bocconotti rest in their molds for about 10 minutes when they come out of the oven. This wait is not optional. Straight from the heat the filling is still fluid and the shell is fragile, and unmolding early breaks the base. After ten minutes the structure firms enough to release cleanly: tap the mold upside down against your palm, or run the tip of a paring knife around the rim if one resists, and turn each pastry out onto a wire rack. Cool them completely, right side up, with air moving underneath, before finishing. Only when they are entirely cold should you dust the tops evenly with confectioners sugar through a fine sieve. Sugar on a warm pastry dissolves into a wet gray film.
Final Plating and Presentation
Bocconotti are served at room temperature, never chilled and never warm. Cold mutes the chocolate and stiffens the fat in the pastry into something waxy; heat softens the shell and makes the filling smear. Take them out of the tin at least half an hour before serving and let them come to the temperature of the room, then dust them with confectioners sugar at the last moment so the coating is bright white and powdery rather than absorbed.
The traditional presentation is deliberately plain and it is the right one. Arrange four or five pastries on a simple ceramic plate, ideally the rustic yellow and green glazed ware of Castelli that Abruzzo is known for, with nothing beside them. No sauce, no berry, no mint, no chocolate drizzle. The visual interest is entirely in the fluted ridges catching the light through the white sugar, and in the fact that each one is closed and gives nothing away. Set them slightly apart rather than piled, because sugar transfers from one to another and a heap looks careless.
If you want to show the interior, and it is worth showing, cut one single pastry cleanly in half with a thin sharp knife wiped between cuts and lay the two halves cut side up at the front of the plate. The contrast is the whole point of the dessert: a pale, fine, sandy shell no thicker than a coin around a dense almost black interior flecked with almond. Serve with espresso in small cups, or with a small glass of a sweet red poured to no more than a third. On a larger dessert board bocconotti sit well alongside plain toasted almonds and a wedge of aged pecorino, which is how they are often offered at the end of a long Abruzzese meal.
Professional Technique
The technical center of a bocconotto is the relationship between a thin sweet pastry and a wet filling that has to bake inside it without soaking through. Professionals solve this in three ways at once. First, the frolla is built by the sablage method, rubbing fat into flour before any liquid arrives, so that every flour particle is coated in fat and physically prevented from forming long gluten strands or from absorbing syrup from the filling. Second, the filling is thickened before it ever meets the pastry: the almond meal and the yolk are doing the work of a starch, binding free liquid so that very little moisture is available to migrate outward during the bake. Third, the pastry is rolled to a consistent 1/8 inch (3 mm), because an uneven shell bakes unevenly and the thin patches are where syrup breaks through.
Temperature discipline runs through the whole process. The butter is worked in soft but cool, the dough rests cold so the fat is firm when it hits the oven, and the filling is cooled to about 100°F (38°C) before the yolk goes in. That chilled fat is what produces shortness: as the shell heats, the solid fat melts and releases steam into the spaces it occupied, opening the crumb into fine flakes. If the dough goes into the mold warm, the fat has already migrated into the flour and the shell bakes dense and hard. Working quickly at the lining stage, and returning the lined molds to the refrigerator for ten minutes on a hot kitchen day, is standard practice and costs nothing.
The seal is the third pillar and it is a mechanical skill worth practicing. Press, do not pinch: pinching thins the dough at the join and creates a weak line that splits under steam pressure, while pressing the two sheets flat against the rim of the mold welds them across a wide band. Trim after sealing rather than before, so the outer edge is cut clean and there is no ragged flap to lift. A well sealed bocconotto behaves like a small sealed vessel in the oven, cooking its filling in its own trapped steam, which is exactly why the interior stays moist while the shell dries and crisps.
Texture and Moisture Control
Three textures have to coexist in one small pastry: a crisp, sandy, short shell, a dense but moist chocolate and almond interior, and a fine dry veil of sugar on top. Each is governed by moisture, and each can destroy the others. The shell is the vulnerable one, since it sits in direct contact with a filling that contains 1/2 cup (120 ml) of syrup. Its defense is fat coverage and thickness discipline, plus the fact that the almond meal binds so much of that liquid before baking begins. If you grind the almonds too coarsely they bind less and the filling stays wetter; if you grind them to an oily paste they release fat instead of absorbing, and the filling turns greasy rather than moist.
The sugar syrup does double duty. Sugar is hygroscopic, meaning it holds water in place rather than letting it evaporate or wander, which is precisely why this filling stays soft for days while the shell around it stays dry. That is also why the recipe uses a syrup rather than simply stirring sugar into melted chocolate: dissolving the sugar in water first distributes it evenly through the almond meal and guarantees that every part of the filling holds its moisture equally. A filling made with undissolved sugar bakes into gritty patches and dry pockets.
Rest is the final moisture control step and the most commonly skipped. Straight out of the oven the shell is dry and the filling is wet, and the two are in disequilibrium. Over the following six to twelve hours a small, controlled amount of moisture migrates from the filling into the inner surface of the pastry, softening it just slightly and, more importantly, carrying the aromas of chocolate, cinnamon and lemon into the shell. This is why Abruzzese bakers insist bocconotti are better the day after they are made. Store them for that rest at room temperature in a tin, never in the refrigerator, where the cold would pull moisture out of the filling and drive the shell toward staleness instead.
Professional Mise en Place
Bocconotti are a batch pastry, and the difference between a smooth session and a frantic one is entirely in the setup. The dough must be cold and rested, the almonds must be toasted, cooled and ground, the filling must be made and cooled to the right point, and the molds must be buttered, all before the first disk of dough is rolled. Once you start lining molds you should not be stopping to melt chocolate. Organize the bench in a straight line: rolled dough, lined molds, filling with a measuring spoon, lids, then the baking sheet.
Equipment and Tools
Twelve small fluted bocconotto molds, or fluted tartlet tins of about 2 1/2 inches (6 cm)
Heavy rimmed baking sheet for the molds and a second one for toasting almonds
Food processor or nut grinder for the almonds
Small heavy saucepan for the sugar syrup
Rolling pin and a pastry cutter or plain round cutters in two sizes
Instant read thermometer for checking the filling before adding the yolk
Fine sieve for dusting confectioners sugar
Wire cooling rack and an airtight tin for storage
Advance Preparation Steps
Pastry dough can be made up to two days ahead and kept wrapped in the refrigerator, or frozen for one month
Almonds can be toasted and ground up to one week ahead and kept in a sealed jar away from light
The chocolate and almond filling can be made one day ahead, refrigerated, then brought back to room temperature and beaten smooth before use
Butter the molds and line them with pastry, then refrigerate the lined molds for up to two hours before filling
Grate the lemon zest for both pastry and filling in one operation and keep the two portions separate
Serving Setup
Bring the bocconotti out of the tin thirty minutes before service so they reach room temperature
Dust with confectioners sugar immediately before they go to the table, never in advance
Have the serving plates dry and at room temperature, since a cold plate causes condensation on the pastry base
Set out espresso cups and small dessert glasses at the same moment, since these pastries are meant to be served with one or the other
Chef Tips
Use a dark chocolate between 60 and 70 percent cocoa. Below that the filling is merely sweet and the almond disappears, above that the tannin fights the shortcrust and the whole pastry reads as bitter.
Roll the dough between two sheets of parchment. It keeps the thickness even, saves you from adding flour that would toughen the frolla, and lets you lift the fragile lids without tearing them.
Weigh the filling into the shells rather than eyeballing it. One generous tablespoon, about 1 oz (30 g), gives twelve identical pastries and removes the temptation to overfill the last few.
Make them the day before you need them and keep them in a tin. The overnight rest is not a convenience, it is a stage of the recipe, and the aroma of almond and cinnamon in the shell only appears after it.
Common Mistakes
Treating the filling like a ganache: this is the single most common error, and it comes from thinking of the bocconotto as a chocolate tart. A filling built on cream and chocolate alone stays fluid, soaks the shell from the inside and runs out when the pastry is bitten. The Abruzzese filling is bound by ground almonds, sugar syrup and egg yolk, and it should mound on the spoon before it goes into the shell. If yours pours, let it stand until the almond meal has finished absorbing, and check that you ground the almonds finely enough.
Overworking the pastry: kneading a frolla as if it were bread develops gluten, and gluten in this dough shows up as shells that shrink down the sides of the mold during baking, lids that curl away from the rim and a bite that is hard rather than sandy. Bring the dough together only until it is uniform, in under half a minute, and let the rest in the refrigerator do the rest of the work of relaxing it.
Overfilling the molds: an extra half spoonful seems harmless but it leaves no clean margin of dough for the lid to seal against, and the pressure of expanding filling breaks the seam in the oven. The filling should sit visibly below the rim. What escapes will scorch on the tray, and the pastry it escapes from will bake out dry.
Baking too dark and dusting too early: these two errors travel together. A shell taken to deep brown has caramelized past the point where it tastes of butter and lemon, and it dries the filling behind it, so pull the tray at pale gold. Then wait. Sugar dusted onto a pastry that is even slightly warm dissolves into a damp gray glaze instead of sitting as a dry white veil, so the pastries must be completely cold before the sieve comes out.
Wine or Beverage Pairing
The pairing problem here is dark chocolate and toasted almond inside a sweet, buttery, lemon scented shell. Two rules govern the choice. The wine must be at least as sweet as the pastry, or the sugar in the frolla will strip it and leave it sour and metallic. And its tannin must be low or fully resolved, because chocolate carries its own drying tannin and two sets of tannin in one mouthful produce nothing but astringency. Sweet, aromatic, moderately structured wines are the answer, and Abruzzo itself offers a natural starting point before the great passiti of the rest of Italy take over.
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC. The regional pairing and the one Castel Frentano would pour. Choose a soft, ripe, unoaked example rather than a serious Riserva. Its dark plum and morello cherry fruit meets the chocolate on equal terms, the tannin is round and low in grip, and the naturally generous fruit reads as sweetness against the almond filling without any residual sugar at all.
Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC. The classic partner for anything almond based, and the affinity is aromatic rather than accidental. Long oxidative ageing gives roasted nut, dried apricot and caramel notes that mirror the toasted almond meal exactly, while the cutting acidity underneath the sweetness scrubs the butter of the frolla clean between bites. It also picks up the lemon zest in the pastry.
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. A sweet red made from dried grapes, and one of the very few wines that can stand up to dark chocolate without turning bitter. The dried cherry and cocoa character sits directly on top of the filling, the sweetness is ample enough to cover the sugar in the shell, and the tannin is soft and fully resolved by the drying process, so nothing dries the palate.
Moscato di Scanzo DOCG. A rare sweet red Moscato with a perfumed rose and dried strawberry aromatic profile that lifts the cinnamon and lemon in the filling rather than competing with the chocolate. Its sweetness is elegant rather than heavy and its acidity keeps the pairing from becoming cloying across two or three pastries, which is how bocconotti are actually eaten.
Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG. The lightest option and the most refreshing. Gently sparkling, low in alcohol, sweet and intensely aromatic of rose and raspberry, it functions almost as a palate cleanser between bites. The bubbles cut the fat of the butter pastry, and the classic marriage of red berry aroma with dark chocolate needs no defending.
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC. A drier, more unusual choice for anyone who prefers to end a meal without more sugar, and another wine of the same hills. Its deep cherry rosé fruit and firm acidity contrast rather than match the pastry, cleaning the palate after each bite. Serve it well chilled and keep the portion small.
For a wine free option, follow the local habit and serve a short, dense espresso, whose roast bitterness lines up with the cocoa and whose heat contrasts the cool pastry. A cup of unsweetened bitter almond infusion or a lightly spiced hot chocolate served in small quantities also works well at a winter table.
Storage and Make Ahead Options
Bocconotti are built for storage and they genuinely improve with it. Once completely cool and before dusting, layer them in an airtight tin between sheets of parchment and keep them at room temperature, away from heat and sunlight, for up to five days. Days two and three are the best of the batch, when the aromas of chocolate, cinnamon and lemon have fully penetrated the shell and the filling has settled to a firm, sliceable, still moist consistency. Dust with confectioners sugar only on the day you serve them, since sugar left on stored pastries slowly absorbs moisture and turns patchy and translucent.
Do not refrigerate them. Refrigeration is the fastest way to ruin the texture: cold hardens the fat in the frolla into something waxy, and the dry air of a domestic refrigerator pulls moisture out of the filling while pushing the shell toward staleness. If your kitchen is very warm, a cool pantry or cellar is the right compromise.
For longer storage, freeze the baked and completely cooled undusted pastries in a rigid container with parchment between the layers for up to two months. Thaw them still sealed in the container at room temperature for about three hours so the condensation forms on the container rather than on the pastry, then refresh in a 300°F (150°C) oven for 5 minutes and cool again before dusting. The dough freezes even better than the finished pastry: wrapped tightly, it keeps for one month and thaws overnight in the refrigerator. The filling holds one day refrigerated in a covered bowl and needs only to come back to room temperature and be beaten smooth before use, which makes it entirely realistic to spread this recipe over three unhurried days.
Nutrition Information
Values are per bocconotto, based on a yield of 12 pastries.
Calories, about 265
Total Fat, 13 g
Saturated Fat, 5.5 g
Trans Fat, 0.2 g
Unsaturated Fat, 7 g
Cholesterol, 62 mg
Sodium, 55 mg
Total Carbohydrates, 33 g
Fiber, 2.2 g
Total Sugars, 18 g
Added Sugars, 16 g
Protein, 5 g
Lactose, 0.2 g
Micronutrients, vitamin E about 3 mg, magnesium about 40 mg, iron about 1.6 mg, calcium about 35 mg, potassium about 150 mg, phosphorus about 90 mg
Allergens: this recipe contains wheat and gluten, tree nuts in the form of almonds, eggs and dairy from butter. Dark chocolate may carry traces of soy lecithin and, depending on the producer, of milk. Substituting rendered pork lard for the butter removes the dairy but makes the recipe unsuitable for anyone avoiding pork. All figures are estimates that will vary with the cocoa percentage of the chocolate, the exact size of the molds and the thickness to which the pastry is rolled.
About the Recipe
This version follows the coastal Chieti style of bocconotto, the chocolate and almond one, rather than the grape must or sour cherry versions found further inland and further south. It is written with butter in the pastry because that is what most kitchens outside Abruzzo will have and because butter gives a more forgiving, more evenly browning shell, but the optional swap to rendered lard is included precisely because it is the older and arguably more authentic choice in Castel Frentano.
Everything else here stays close to the traditional method: the syrup rather than dry sugar, the almonds toasted and ground at home rather than bought as flour, the filling bound with a single yolk, the shell sealed and the top left undecorated except for confectioners sugar. Bocconotti sit in the category of Italian pastries that reward patience rather than skill, and the only real demand they make is that you resist eating them on the day they are baked.
Summary
Bocconotti Abruzzesi are small sealed shortcrust pastries from the province of Chieti, filled with a dense mixture of dark chocolate, toasted ground almonds, sugar syrup, cinnamon and lemon zest, baked in fluted molds until pale gold and finished with nothing but confectioners sugar. The technique rests on four decisions: a frolla worked briefly and rested cold, almonds toasted lightly and ground finely enough to bind the syrup, a filling cooled to about 100°F (38°C) before the yolk goes in, and a seal pressed firmly enough to trap steam inside the pastry during the bake.
Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 20 to 25 minutes, rest 10 minutes in the molds, cool completely on a rack, then keep them in a tin overnight before dusting and serving at room temperature. Pair with a sweet red or a Vin Santo, or simply with espresso, and remember that in Castel Frentano nobody would think of judging a bocconotto on the day it came out of the oven.
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