Casoncelli alla Bergamasca (Italian Bergamo Stuffed Pasta)
- 55 minutes ago
- 6 min read
Casoncelli alla Bergamasca, known locally as casonsei, are the emblematic stuffed pasta of Bergamo. Their identity comes from a deliberately complex sweet-savory filling—bread, sausage, roasted beef, Grana Padano, pear, raisins, amaretto, parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and warm spice—enclosed in a thin egg-and-water dough and folded into the distinctive curved shape often compared to a bird’s wing.
The seasoning is equally specific: browned butter, sage, and pancetta, finished with grated Grana Padano. This is not ravioli in cream sauce and it is not a generic meat filling. The measured touches of pear, raisin, and amaretto should round the roast and sausage rather than make the pasta taste like dessert.
This recipe follows the proportions associated with the Bergamo tradition and makes about 60 casoncelli, serving six as a first course. Set aside about 2 1/2 hours, including resting and shaping. The filling can be prepared one day ahead, which improves cohesion and makes final assembly far more controlled.
Ingredients
• For the dough: 3 1/3 cups Italian 00 flour (400 g)
• 3/4 cup fine durum-wheat semolina flour (100 g), plus more for dusting
• 2 large eggs
• About 1/2 cup lukewarm water (120 ml), added gradually
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• For the filling: 4 1/2 ounces dry breadcrumbs (125 g)
• 5 1/3 ounces fresh mild pork sausage, casing removed (150 g)
• 3 1/2 ounces cold roasted beef, finely chopped (100 g)
• 2 2/3 ounces finely grated Grana Padano (75 g)
• 3 1/2 ounces firm ripe pear, peeled and finely diced (100 g)
• 2 teaspoons raisins, soaked, drained, and minced (10 g)
• 1 small crisp amaretto cookie, finely crushed (about 5 g)
• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 1 small garlic clove, grated
• Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
• Pinch each ground cinnamon and freshly grated nutmeg
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• For the condiment: 6 ounces pancetta, cut into short batons (170 g)
• 12 tablespoons unsalted butter (170 g)
• 16 fresh sage leaves
• 3/4 cup finely grated Grana Padano (70 g), for finishing
Preparation
1. Make the filling first. Brown the sausage in a wide skillet over medium heat, breaking it into very small pieces. Add the chopped roast beef and cook just until warmed and fragrant. Transfer to a tray and cool completely; warm filling softens pasta dough and encourages tearing.
2. In the same skillet, sauté the pear for 2 to 3 minutes, only until its raw edge is gone. Combine it with the meat, breadcrumbs, Grana Padano, raisins, crushed amaretto, egg, parsley, garlic, lemon zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, and a cautious amount of salt. Mix thoroughly, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
3. For the dough, mound the 00 flour and semolina on the work surface or place them in a mixer bowl. Add the eggs, salt, and about three-quarters of the water. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, adding only enough remaining water to obtain a firm, smooth dough. It should be more structured than all-egg tagliatelle dough.
4. Wrap the dough and rest it at room temperature for 30 minutes. This is essential: the semolina hydrates and the gluten relaxes, allowing a thin sheet without springing back.
5. Divide the dough into four pieces, keeping unused portions covered. Roll each progressively through a pasta machine to approximately 0.6 mm, usually the second-thinnest setting. Dust sparingly with semolina; excess flour prevents the edges from sealing.
6. Cut rounds 2 1/2 to 3 inches (6 to 8 cm) in diameter. Place about 2 teaspoons of filling just below the center of each. Fold into a half-moon, press out trapped air, and seal firmly. Bend the straight edge slightly and press the filled center forward to create the characteristic boat or bird-wing profile.
7. Arrange the shaped casoncelli in one layer on semolina-dusted trays. Keep them covered with a clean towel while continuing. Re-roll scraps only once; repeated rolling makes the dough tough.
8. Bring a large, wide pot of well-salted water to a gentle boil. Meanwhile, render the pancetta in a skillet until its edges are crisp. Add the butter and sage; cook until the butter foams, the milk solids turn hazelnut-brown, and the sage becomes crisp. Remove from direct heat before it darkens further.
9. Cook the casoncelli in batches for about 4 to 6 minutes, depending on how much they have dried. Keep the boil calm so the filled pasta is not battered. Lift with a spider directly into a warmed serving bowl, bringing a spoonful of pasta water with them.
10. Spoon over the pancetta, sage, and browned butter. Add Grana Padano and toss by gently rocking the bowl rather than stirring aggressively. Serve immediately on warm plates, distributing the crisp pancetta and sage evenly.
Professional Technique
The correct filling is moist enough to bind yet firm enough to portion cleanly. Breadcrumb absorption changes by brand, so chill the mixture before judging it. If it crumbles after resting, work in a teaspoon of water or broth; if it smears, add a small spoonful of breadcrumbs. The fruit and amaretto must remain background notes.
Sheet thickness and air removal determine whether casoncelli survive cooking. Roll to about 0.6 mm and cover the dough at all times. After folding, press from the filling outward before sealing the perimeter. A visible air pocket expands in boiling water and can split even a well-sealed parcel.
For professional service, blanch the casoncelli for about 90 seconds, transfer to iced water, drain very well, and toss lightly with neutral oil. Refrigerate in a single layer for no more than several hours. Finish to order in gently boiling water, then dress immediately with freshly browned butter.
Chef Tips
• Prepare the filling one day ahead. The breadcrumbs absorb moisture evenly and the aromatic ingredients become integrated without becoming more pronounced.
• Use a firm aromatic pear, not a soft overripe one. It should contribute perfume and faint sweetness without releasing a pool of juice.
• Weigh the filling portions for the first few pieces. Consistent quantities make sealing faster and keep the cooking time uniform.
• Brown the butter only when the pasta water is nearly ready. Butter continues to darken from residual heat, and burnt milk solids overpower the nuanced filling.
• Warm the serving bowl and plates. Stuffed pasta cools quickly, and congealed butter dulls both aroma and texture.
Common Mistakes
• Replacing the characteristic filling with ricotta and spinach or plain ground meat: those versions are not casoncelli alla Bergamasca.
• Making the dough too soft: it sticks during shaping and becomes fragile around a moist meat filling.
• Overfilling: the edges become greasy or contaminated, preventing a watertight seal.
• Boiling violently: strong turbulence tears the folded pasta and washes filling into the pot.
• Using cream: the traditional condiment is butter, sage, pancetta, and Grana Padano; cream masks the sweet-savory balance.
Wine Pairing
Valtellina Superiore DOCG — Alpine Nebbiolo brings lift, savory red fruit, and fine tannin that matches the roasted filling without overwhelming the pear and amaretto nuances.
Barbera d’Asti DOCG — Its cherry depth and gentle spice echo browned butter and pancetta, while sufficient acidity keeps the finish energetic.
Pinot Nero dell’Oltrepò Pavese DOC — A restrained Pinot Nero provides bright red fruit, earthy complexity, and supple structure for a more delicate, regionally coherent pairing.
Storage & Reheating
Fresh casoncelli may be refrigerated, uncovered until the surface is dry and then loosely covered, for up to 12 hours. For longer storage, freeze the shaped pasta in one layer until solid, transfer it to a sealed container, and cook directly from frozen, adding 1 to 2 minutes. Do not thaw on the counter, where condensation makes the dough sticky.
Refrigerate cooked leftovers for up to 2 days. Reheat gently in a skillet with a splash of water and a small knob of butter; avoid a microwave if possible because the filling overheats before the pasta softens. Browned-butter condiment is best made fresh, and crisp pancetta should be stored separately.
Nutrition
Approximate nutrition per first-course serving: 760 calories, 28 g protein, 39 g fat, 71 g carbohydrate, and 1,180 mg sodium. The estimate includes pancetta, butter, and finishing cheese and will vary with the sausage and portion size.
Serving & Menu Notes
Present 9 to 10 casoncelli per warmed plate, arranged naturally rather than stacked. Spoon the condiment around and over them so the folded shape remains visible. One crisp sage leaf and a measured scattering of pancetta are sufficient. Additional sweetness, balsamic glaze, or decorative fruit is unnecessary and distorts the disciplined Bergamo balance.
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