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Italian Abruzzese Sweet Ricotta Ravioli | Ravioli Dolci di Ricotta Abruzzesi

Aug 18
10 min read

Updated: Sep 15

Italian Abruzzese Sweet Ricotta Ravioli, Ravioli Dolci di Ricotta Abruzzesi, fried and dusted with sugar
Italian Abruzzese Sweet Ricotta Ravioli, Ravioli Dolci di Ricotta Abruzzesi, fried and dusted with sugar

Ravioli dolci di ricotta abruzzesi are sweet ravioli, not pasta. The wrapper is a short sweet dough closer to a soft pasta frolla than to egg pasta, the filling is fresh sheep or cow ricotta beaten with sugar, cinnamon and lemon zest, and the parcels are either fried in oil until blistered and golden or baked and finished with sugar. They belong to Carnival above all, and they reappear at Easter and at village feast days across Abruzzo.

The name causes confusion outside the region, because ravioli in most of Italy means something boiled and sauced. These are not. They are eaten with the fingers, warm or at room temperature, off a tray lined with paper, and they sit in the same family as the caggionetti of Chieti and the cassatelle of Sicily rather than alongside ravioli di magro. A few Abruzzese households do boil a sweetened ricotta raviolo and dress it in butter and cinnamon, but the fried version is the one the region is known for.

Yield: about 30 ravioli, 6 servings. Prep: 1 hour. Drain and rest: 3 hours. Cook: 25 minutes. Total: about 4 hours 25 minutes. Difficulty: intermediate. Course: dessert. Region: Abruzzo, especially the Chieti and Teramo provinces.


The Story


Abruzzo is sheep country. The tratturi, the wide grass drove roads that carried flocks down to the Tavoliere plain of Puglia every autumn and back up to the Apennine pastures every spring, shaped the region's food for centuries, and ricotta was the most immediate product of that economy. Made from the whey left after cheesemaking, it kept only a day or two, so it was used fast, and sweetened ricotta enclosed in dough and fried was one of the most direct ways to turn a perishable surplus into something festive.

The timing is not accidental. Carnival is the last stretch before Lent, the moment when eggs, lard, cheese and sugar had to be finished rather than kept, and fried sweets appear everywhere in Italy in those days for exactly that reason. In Abruzzo the sweet raviolo shares the Carnival table with cicerchiata and with the chocolate and chestnut filled caggionetti that belong more properly to Christmas, and every valley argues quietly about proportions, shapes and whether the dough should carry white wine, olive oil or lard.


Ingredients


For the sweet dough

  • All purpose flour, 3 cups (375 g)

  • Granulated sugar, 1/4 cup (50 g)

  • Unsalted butter, softened, 1/2 cup (115 g)

  • Whole eggs, large, 2

  • Dry white wine, 3 tbsp (45 ml)

  • Extra virgin olive oil, 2 tbsp (30 ml)

  • Finely grated lemon zest, from 1 lemon

  • Fine sea salt, 1/2 tsp (3 g)

For the ricotta filling

  • Whole milk ricotta, sheep or cow, 2 cups (500 g) before draining

  • Granulated sugar, 1/3 cup (70 g)

  • Egg yolk, large, 1

  • Ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp (1 g)

  • Finely grated lemon zest, from 1 lemon

  • Pure vanilla extract, 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)

  • Fine sea salt, 1/8 tsp (0.7 g)

  • Dark chocolate, finely chopped, 2 tbsp (25 g), optional

For frying and finishing

  • Sunflower or peanut oil for deep frying, about 6 cups (1.4 L)

  • Granulated sugar, 1/2 cup (100 g), for rolling while warm

  • Ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp (1 g), mixed into the sugar, optional

  • Powdered sugar, for dusting, optional

  • Egg white, lightly beaten, 1, for sealing


Preparation


Draining the ricotta

Line a fine mesh sieve with two layers of cheesecloth, set it over a bowl and tip in the ricotta. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and preferably overnight. You want to lose roughly a quarter of its weight in whey. Commercial tub ricotta holds far more water than it looks as though it does, and an undrained filling will steam inside the dough, build pressure and burst the seal in the fryer.


Making the sweet dough

Combine the flour, sugar, lemon zest and salt in a bowl, add the softened butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture is evenly sandy. Beat the eggs with the white wine and the olive oil, pour them into a well in the centre and bring everything together with a fork, then knead on the work surface for 3 to 4 minutes only, until the dough is smooth and elastic but still firm. This dough carries more gluten than a pasta frolla on purpose, because it has to stretch thin and hold a wet filling without tearing.


Resting the dough

Wrap the dough tightly and leave it at cool room temperature for 1 hour, or refrigerate it for up to a day and let it come back to room temperature before rolling. Resting relaxes the gluten you developed during kneading so the sheets roll out thin and stay where you put them instead of springing back.


Mixing the filling

Press the drained ricotta through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. This takes two minutes and removes the grain that no amount of beating will smooth out. Fold in the sugar, egg yolk, cinnamon, lemon zest, vanilla and salt, and the chopped chocolate if you are using it, working gently with a spatula rather than whipping air into it. Taste: it should read as only lightly sweet, because the sugar coating and the browned dough will add a great deal more. Refrigerate it, covered, until you are ready to fill.


Rolling and cutting the sheets

Divide the dough into four pieces and keep three covered. Roll one at a time on a lightly floured surface, or through a pasta machine down to the second thinnest setting, until the sheet is about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) thick. Cut rounds of 3 inches (8 cm) with a plain or fluted cutter, or work with long strips if you prefer squares.


Filling and sealing

Place a rounded teaspoon of filling slightly off centre on each round, brush the exposed border with beaten egg white, fold the dough over into a half moon and press out every trace of air from the centre outward before sealing. Press the edge firmly with your fingertips first, then crimp with a fork or a fluted wheel. Trapped air expands violently in hot oil and blows the parcel open, and a filling that reaches the very edge prevents the two surfaces from bonding. Set the finished ravioli on a floured tray without letting them touch.


Frying

Heat the oil to 340°F (170°C) in a deep heavy pan and check it with a thermometer rather than by eye. Fry four or five ravioli at a time, turning them once, for about 2 to 3 minutes in total, until they are evenly golden and blistered. Crowding the pan drops the temperature and the dough absorbs oil instead of sealing; oil above 350°F (175°C) browns the outside before the dough inside the seam has cooked. Lift them out with a spider onto a rack set over paper, never directly onto paper, which traps steam underneath.


Sugaring, or the baked alternative

Roll the ravioli in the granulated sugar, or in the sugar mixed with cinnamon, while they are still hot enough for it to cling, then leave them on the rack. If you prefer to bake them, brush the sealed parcels with beaten egg, sprinkle them with sugar and bake at 350°F (175°C) for 18 to 20 minutes until golden. Baked ravioli are drier and less rich, keep a day longer, and are the version many Abruzzese families now make at home on a weekday.


Plating


These are served warm rather than hot, about 20 minutes out of the fryer, when the dough has firmed and the ricotta inside has settled back to a soft cream. Straight from the oil the filling is molten and scalding and the sugar coating has not set; fully cold they lose the contrast between crisp shell and warm centre that is the entire point of the dish.

For a restaurant dessert course, set three ravioli slightly overlapping on a warm plate, dust them lightly through a fine sieve, and add one spoonful of sweetened ricotta cream or a small quenelle of cinnamon gelato to the side. Nothing wet should touch them: a sauce pooled under a fried raviolo softens the base within a minute. If you want acidity on the plate, a few pieces of orange segment, peeled to the flesh, work far better than any coulis.


Professional Technique


The technical heart of this recipe is the seal, because everything that can go wrong in the fryer goes wrong there. Two surfaces of dough bond when they are pressed together with a thin protein glue and no air between them, which is why the egg white matters and why the air is expelled from the centre outward rather than by pressing the edges first. Filling placed too close to the border leaves fat and moisture in the bond line and the parcel opens. A double crimp, fingertips followed by a fork, roughly doubles the contact area.

The second is frying temperature, and 340°F (170°C) is chosen deliberately. At that heat the surface water in the dough turns to steam fast enough to push outward and keep oil from entering, which is the mechanism behind every properly fried food: the crust is formed by escaping steam, not by absorption. Fry cooler and the steam pressure is too weak, so oil enters and the ravioli turn heavy. Fry hotter and the exterior sets and colours before the interior seam, thicker than the rest, has cooked through.


Texture and Moisture Control


Three moisture problems have to be managed in sequence. The first is in the ricotta, and draining is the only answer; expect to lose 4 to 5 oz (120 to 140 g) of whey from 2 cups and be suspicious if you lose almost none, because that usually means a stabilised commercial product that will behave unpredictably. The second is in the dough, where the white wine and the olive oil both limit gluten and keep the shell short, and the third is the oil itself, which the finished ravioli must be allowed to shed on a rack.

Dough thickness controls the eating texture more than any other single decision. At 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) the shell blisters and shatters; at twice that it is bready and the seam stays raw in the middle. Roll thinner than feels safe, and if the sheet begins to dry and crack while you are cutting, cover the pieces you are not working with under a cloth. A dried surface will not seal no matter how much egg white you use.


Professional Mise en Place


Draining and dough resting are the two long waits, and both happen the day before if you plan properly. Filling and frying then take under an hour, which is what makes this a realistic dessert for a large table.

Equipment and tools

  • Fine mesh sieve and cheesecloth for draining, and a second sieve for the filling

  • Rolling pin or pasta machine, 3 inch round cutter, fluted pastry wheel

  • Deep heavy pan or fryer and a probe thermometer that reads to 400°F (200°C)

  • Spider or slotted spoon, cooling rack set over a tray lined with paper

  • Floured trays for the shaped ravioli, pastry brush, wide bowl for the sugar

Prepared ahead

  • Ricotta drained overnight in the refrigerator, whey discarded

  • Sweet dough made and rested, up to 1 day ahead, wrapped and refrigerated

  • Filling mixed and refrigerated, up to 1 day ahead, in a covered container

  • Ravioli shaped and sealed, up to 4 hours ahead on floured trays, refrigerated and covered

  • Sugar and cinnamon combined in a wide bowl, egg white beaten for sealing

Service setup

  • Oil at 340°F (170°C) with the thermometer clipped in place and a timer running

  • Shaped ravioli laid out in a single layer, not touching, within reach of the pan

  • Rack over paper ready beside the fryer, sugar bowl next to the rack

  • Fry in batches of four or five and let the oil recover between them

  • Serving platter warm, powdered sugar in a fine shaker for the table


Chef Tips


Buy sheep ricotta if you can find it. Abruzzo is sheep country and ricotta di pecora has more fat, more character and a faint gaminess that cow ricotta cannot give you. It also drains differently, usually losing less whey, so check the texture rather than trusting the clock.

Make a test raviolo before you fry the batch. One parcel in the oil tells you whether the seal holds, whether the dough is the right thickness and whether the filling is sweet enough, and it costs you three minutes. Every professional kitchen does this and no home recipe ever mentions it.


Common Mistakes


Using ricotta straight from the tub. The whey left in undrained ricotta turns to steam inside the parcel, builds pressure and splits the seal in the fryer. Drain it over a sieve for at least 3 hours and expect to pour off a real quantity of liquid.

Making the filling too sweet. The sugar coating and the caramelisation of the dough both add sweetness during cooking. A filling that tastes correct raw will be cloying once fried. It should read as only lightly sweet in the bowl.

Leaving air inside the raviolo. Trapped air expands in hot oil and forces the parcel open. Press from the centre outward before you seal the edge, never the other way round, and crimp twice.

Frying at the wrong temperature. Below 325°F (165°C) the ravioli absorb oil and turn heavy; above 350°F (175°C) they colour before the seam cooks. Use a thermometer and let the oil recover between batches.


Wine Pairing


Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG: A sweet lightly sparkling red, and the bubbles are what make it work against something fried. The carbonation scrubs the palate clean of frying fat between ravioli, while the strawberry and rose perfume sits comfortably beside cinnamon.

Moscato d'Asti DOCG: The safe Carnival choice and a genuinely good one. Its 5 percent alcohol keeps it refreshing through a tray of sweets that would defeat a fuller wine, and the muscat grape's orange peel and sage aromatics chime with the lemon zest in both the dough and the ricotta. Sweet enough to stay ahead of the sugar coating.

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC: For the baked version above all, where there is less fat to cut and more room for complexity. Its dried fig, almond and caramel notes sit naturally with browned dough, and the high acidity behind the sweetness keeps a rich pairing from turning heavy.

Ramandolo DOCG: The interesting outsider. Verduzzo's thick skins leave a faint tannic grip that dries the finish, which is exactly what a fried sweet needs and what most dessert wines cannot offer.


Storage & Reheating


Fried ravioli are at their best within a few hours of cooking and should be kept at room temperature, uncovered or under a loose cloth, on a rack or a paper lined tray. Refrigeration ruins them: the shell absorbs humidity from the cold air and goes leathery, and the sugar coating weeps. If you must hold them beyond a day, an airtight tin at room temperature keeps them acceptable for 2 days.

Because the filling is fresh ricotta, food safety sets a real limit. Do not leave the finished ravioli at room temperature for longer than a day. Past that point refrigerate them in an airtight container for up to 3 days and accept that the texture will suffer, or better, refrigerate them for no more than 48 hours and refresh them in a 325°F (165°C) oven for 6 to 8 minutes, which drives off the absorbed moisture and restores much of the crispness. Never use a microwave.


Nutrition


Per serving, based on 6 servings of 5 fried ravioli each:

  • Calories: 520 kcal

  • Total Fat: 26 g

  • Saturated Fat: 12 g

  • Trans Fat: 0.4 g

  • Unsaturated Fat: 13 g

  • Cholesterol: 135 mg

  • Sodium: 300 mg

  • Total Carbohydrates: 57 g

  • Fiber: 1.8 g

  • Total Sugars: 24 g

  • Added Sugars: 20 g

  • Protein: 15 g

  • Lactose: 3 g

  • Principal micronutrients: calcium, phosphorus, vitamin A, riboflavin, selenium

These figures are estimates. Frying adds roughly 8 to 10 g of fat per serving depending on oil temperature and drainage, so the baked version comes in near 400 kcal, and the sugar coating accounts for most of the added sugars.


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