Risotto alle Castagne e Porcini (Italian Chestnut and Porcini Risotto)

Risotto alle Castagne e Porcini (Italian Chestnut and Porcini Risotto)

Serves 4. Preparation 25 minutes. Cooking 35 minutes. Difficulty Intermediate.

This autumn risotto combines the natural sweetness of roasted chestnuts with the deep woodland character of porcini mushrooms. The goal is not a heavy chestnut purée disguised as risotto. Carnaroli rice must remain the center of the dish, with chestnuts adding body and porcini providing aroma, umami and length. Proper stock management and an off heat mantecatura create the fluid all onda texture that defines a professional risotto.

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups (300 g) Carnaroli rice; 7 oz (200 g) cooked peeled chestnuts; 1 oz (28 g) dried porcini mushrooms; 8 oz (225 g) fresh porcini mushrooms if available; about 5 cups (1.2 L) light chicken or vegetable stock; 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine; 1 small shallot, finely minced; 2 tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil; 3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, divided; 3/4 cup (75 g) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano; 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves; 1 small garlic clove; kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Preparation

Place the dried porcini in a bowl and cover with 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) hot water. Leave for 20 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out rather than pouring the bowl through a strainer, then filter the soaking liquid through a fine sieve so no grit reaches the risotto. Roughly chop the rehydrated porcini. Keep the stock hot in a separate saucepan.

Divide the chestnuts. Crumble about 5 oz (140 g) into irregular pieces and keep the remaining 2 oz (60 g) in larger pieces for the finish. If using fresh porcini, clean them with a damp cloth or soft brush rather than soaking them in water.

Heat 1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil in a wide sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the fresh porcini in a single layer and allow them to color before turning. Add 1 tbsp (14 g) butter, the garlic and a little thyme. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, season lightly, remove the garlic and reserve the mushrooms.

In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, add the remaining olive oil and 1 tbsp (14 g) butter. Add the shallot and cook gently until translucent without browning. Add the Carnaroli and toast for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the grains are hot and lightly translucent at the edges.

Add the white wine and reduce almost completely. Add the rehydrated porcini. Begin adding hot stock one ladle at a time, allowing the rice to absorb most of each addition before adding more. Add some reserved porcini liquid gradually for depth, keeping the flavor balanced.

After about 8 minutes, add the crumbled chestnuts. Continue cooking until the rice is al dente, usually 16 to 18 minutes total depending on the rice and heat. The risotto should remain slightly looser than the final desired consistency before mantecatura.

Professional Technique

Remove the pan completely from the heat. Add the final 1 tbsp (14 g) cold butter, the Parmigiano Reggiano and thyme. Stir vigorously or toss the pan until the starch, butter and cheese form a glossy emulsion. This is the mantecatura. The finished risotto should move in soft waves across the plate when tapped, the classic all onda consistency.

Chestnuts contain starch and can thicken the risotto quickly. Add them only after the rice has already begun releasing starch. Keeping some chestnuts intact preserves contrast between the creamy rice and the roasted chestnut texture.

Chef Tips

Use Carnaroli rather than a generic short grain rice when possible because it tolerates a longer cooking window and maintains a firm center. Taste the porcini soaking liquid before adding it because its intensity can vary. Finish the dish with excellent Parmigiano Reggiano and cold butter, but do not overdo either one. The chestnut and porcini flavors must remain identifiable.

Common Mistakes

Do not rinse the Carnaroli. Do not add cold stock. Do not stir violently for the entire cooking time. Do not overload the risotto with chestnuts, which will make it pasty and sweet. Most importantly, do not perform the final mantecatura over direct heat because the butter and cheese should emulsify, not fry.

Plating

Use a warm wide shallow bowl. Spoon the risotto into the center and tap underneath the plate so it spreads naturally. Arrange the caramelized porcini over the surface, add several roasted chestnut pieces and finish with a few thyme leaves, finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano, black pepper and a very light drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Wine Pairing

Barbera d’Alba is an excellent pairing. Its bright acidity cuts through the butter and Parmigiano Reggiano while its red fruit and earthy character complement porcini and roasted chestnuts. For a white option, Alto Adige Pinot Bianco offers freshness, mineral tension and enough body for the mushrooms.

Storage and Reheating

Risotto is best served immediately. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Reheat gently with a small amount of hot stock, but expect a thicker texture than freshly prepared risotto. Leftovers are also excellent for arancini or crisp risotto cakes.

Nutrition

Approximate nutrition per serving: 610 calories, 18 g protein, 88 g carbohydrates, 20 g fat, 7 g fiber and 620 mg sodium. Values are estimates and vary with stock, cheese and finishing quantities.