Lepre in Salmì (Traditional Italian Tuscan Hare in Red Wine)

Lepre in Salmì (Traditional Italian Tuscan Hare in Red Wine)

Lepre in Salmì is one of the great historic game dishes of Tuscan cooking: hare marinated in red wine with aromatic vegetables and herbs, then slowly braised until tender and finished with a dark, concentrated sauce built from wine, game juices, aromatics, and the natural richness of the meat.

This is an old countryside dish, born from hunting culture rather than restaurant cuisine. Hare has a much deeper, leaner, more distinctly wild flavor than rabbit, and salmì developed as a technique capable of respecting that character while transforming a firm game animal into something tender and extraordinarily aromatic.

A proper Lepre in Salmì should be dark, intense, wine-driven, and unmistakably gamey. It should not taste like rabbit in tomato sauce. Tomato, when used at all, must remain restrained. The sauce should come principally from the reduction of the wine and braising juices.

Servings: 6

Prep Time: 45 minutes

Marinating Time: 12–24 hours

Cook Time: 2½–3 hours

Total Time: Approximately 4 hours, plus marinating

The History and Tuscan Tradition

Game has occupied an important place in Tuscan cooking for centuries.

The region's forests, hills, and agricultural estates supported populations of wild boar, hare, pheasant, deer, and other game animals. Hunting became connected both to aristocratic traditions and to the practical food culture of rural communities.

Hare required particular attention.

Unlike domestic rabbit, hare is darker, leaner, and significantly more assertive in flavor. Its muscles are developed by constant movement, which means the meat benefits from marinating and slow, moist cooking.

The technique known as salmì became one of the classic Italian methods for preparing game.

Although variations exist throughout Italy, the fundamental idea is consistent: marinate the game with wine and aromatics, brown it carefully, braise it slowly, and transform the cooking liquid into an intensely flavored sauce.

In Tuscany, red wine, juniper, rosemary, sage, garlic, and black pepper naturally complement hare.

Older preparations could be extremely powerful, sometimes using the animal's blood or offal to enrich and thicken the sauce.

Modern kitchens often omit the blood, particularly when farmed or professionally butchered hare is being used, but the finished sauce should still retain the depth and concentration characteristic of traditional salmì.

Ingredients

For the Hare

1 whole dressed hare, approximately 4–5 lb, cut into 8–10 serving pieces

Kosher salt, as needed

Freshly ground black pepper, as needed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the Marinade

1 bottle dry Tuscan red wine, 750 ml

1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped

2 medium carrots, roughly chopped

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

2 fresh rosemary sprigs

6 fresh sage leaves

2 bay leaves

6 juniper berries, lightly crushed

8 black peppercorns

2 whole cloves

For the Salmì

1 medium yellow onion, finely diced

1 medium carrot, finely diced

1 celery stalk, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Reserved strained red-wine marinade

1½–2 cups unsalted game or beef stock

1 small rosemary sprig

3 sage leaves

1 bay leaf

4 juniper berries, lightly crushed

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For Finishing the Sauce

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter

1 teaspoon excellent Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Choosing and Preparing the Hare

Hare and rabbit are not interchangeable.

Rabbit is generally pale, mild, and relatively delicate.

Hare is darker, leaner, and more intensely flavored.

If using wild hare, inspect the meat carefully and remove any damaged tissue or remaining shot.

The legs and shoulders contain more connective tissue and tolerate long cooking extremely well.

The saddle is more delicate.

For the best possible result, you can add the saddle pieces slightly later during braising so they do not become dry while the legs tenderize.

Pat the pieces dry before beginning the marinade.

Marinating the Hare

Place the hare in a large nonreactive container.

Add the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, rosemary, sage, bay leaves, juniper berries, peppercorns, and cloves.

Pour the red wine over everything.

Turn the pieces several times.

Cover tightly.

Refrigerate for 12–24 hours.

Turn the hare once or twice during marinating.

The objective is not to erase the flavor of the game.

A good Lepre in Salmì should still taste unmistakably of hare.

The marinade rounds out the stronger wild notes while introducing wine and aromatic complexity.

Preparing the Hare for Cooking

Remove the hare from the marinade.

Strain and reserve the wine.

Discard the old vegetables and herbs.

Pat every piece of hare completely dry.

This is critical.

Wet meat cannot brown properly.

Allow the pieces to stand outside the refrigerator for approximately 20–30 minutes.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Browning the Hare

Heat a large heavy casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Add the extra-virgin olive oil and approximately 1 tablespoon of butter.

When hot, add the hare in small batches.

Do not overcrowd the casserole.

Brown the pieces carefully on all sides.

You want a deep golden-brown exterior without burning the lean meat.

Transfer each browned piece to a plate.

Continue until all the hare has been browned.

The caramelized residue remaining on the bottom of the casserole is extremely important.

Do not remove it.

Preparing the Soffritto

Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add the remaining butter.

Add the finely diced onion, carrot, and celery.

Season with a small pinch of salt.

Cook slowly for approximately 10–12 minutes.

The vegetables should become very soft and lightly golden.

Add the garlic.

Cook for another minute.

Caramelizing the Tomato Paste

Add the tomato paste.

Cook for approximately 2 minutes, stirring continuously.

Allow it to darken slightly.

Only a small quantity is necessary.

The finished salmì should not become a bright tomato sauce.

The dominant flavors must remain hare, wine, aromatics, and the concentrated braising juices.

Reducing the Wine

Pour the reserved strained marinade into the casserole.

Increase the heat.

Scrape the bottom thoroughly with a wooden spoon.

Bring the wine to a strong simmer.

Reduce for approximately 10–15 minutes.

The raw alcoholic aroma should disappear.

The wine should become darker and more concentrated.

This step gives the finished sauce considerably more elegance than simply pouring raw wine over the meat and immediately beginning the braise.

Beginning the Salmì

Return the browned legs and shoulder pieces to the casserole.

Add approximately 1½ cups stock.

Add the rosemary, sage, bay leaf, and juniper berries.

The liquid should reach approximately halfway up the pieces.

Do not completely drown the hare.

Bring everything gently to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to very low.

Partially cover.

Slow Cooking

Cook the leg and shoulder pieces gently for approximately 45 minutes.

Then add the more delicate saddle pieces.

Continue cooking for another 60–90 minutes, depending on the age and toughness of the hare.

Wild hare can require significantly longer cooking than farm-raised hare.

Do not rely entirely on time.

Check the meat.

A properly cooked leg should yield easily when pierced but should still remain intact.

The saddle should remain tender and moist.

The sauce should never boil violently.

A slow braise is essential.

Creating the Salmì Sauce

When the hare is tender, carefully remove the pieces from the casserole.

Keep them warm.

Remove the rosemary, bay leaf, and any large herb stems.

Now evaluate the sauce.

It should already be dark and intensely aromatic.

For a rustic traditional presentation, the softened vegetables can remain in the sauce.

For a more refined preparation, pass the cooking liquid and vegetables through a fine sieve, pressing gently to extract the juices.

Return the strained liquid to a clean saucepan.

Bring to a gentle simmer.

Reduce slowly.

The Correct Sauce Consistency

This is where Lepre in Salmì becomes exceptional.

The sauce must become concentrated enough to coat the hare naturally.

It should be glossy.

Dark mahogany.

Almost brown-red.

Intensely aromatic.

When a spoon is drawn across the bottom of the saucepan, the sauce should briefly leave a visible trail.

Do not use flour.

Do not use cornstarch.

Reduction and the natural gelatin released during cooking should provide the structure.

If using a very traditional preparation with access to properly handled hare blood, historical versions may use it as a final thickening and flavoring element. It must never be boiled after incorporation because it can coagulate.

For the modern version here, reduction alone creates an excellent sauce.

Finishing the Hare

Return the hare pieces to the reduced sauce.

Turn them carefully.

Cook over very low heat for approximately 10 minutes.

The sauce should glaze the meat.

Remove from the heat.

Add the cold butter.

Swirl the casserole gently until the butter emulsifies into the sauce.

Finish with a teaspoon of excellent extra-virgin olive oil.

Taste.

Adjust the salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Chef Tips

Hare Is Not Rabbit

Do not reduce the cooking time simply because the pieces resemble rabbit.

Hare is darker, leaner, and generally requires more patient cooking.

Marinate Overnight

A proper red-wine marinade is particularly useful with strongly flavored game.

Dry the Meat Completely

The difference between steamed gray hare and beautifully browned hare begins with a paper towel.

Control the Juniper

Juniper is excellent with game.

Too much juniper makes the sauce taste medicinal.

Keep Tomato in the Background

One tablespoon of tomato paste is enough.

This is a wine-and-game sauce.

Cook the Saddle Later

The saddle is more delicate than the legs.

Adding it later protects it from unnecessary overcooking.

Make the Dish One Day Ahead

Lepre in Salmì improves enormously after resting overnight in its sauce.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Confusing hare with rabbit

Skipping the marinade

Using poor-quality wine

Cooking wet meat

Failing to brown the hare

Using too much tomato

Using excessive rosemary

Using excessive juniper

Boiling the meat aggressively

Cooking the saddle as long as the legs unnecessarily

Using flour to create an artificially thick sauce

Serving the sauce watery

Covering the game flavor with sweetness

The final dish must still taste of hare.

Serving and Presentation

Traditionally, Lepre in Salmì can be served with grilled or toasted Tuscan bread, roasted potatoes, polenta, or a simple purée capable of absorbing the powerful sauce.

For a more refined presentation, place one carefully selected piece of hare slightly off-center on a warm shallow plate.

A small portion of creamy potato or celery-root purée works beautifully alongside it.

Spoon the dark salmì sauce over the hare, leaving part of the browned surface visible.

Add a little additional sauce around the meat.

Finish with freshly ground black pepper and a few drops of excellent Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil.

No rosemary branch standing vertically.

No edible flowers.

No unnecessary microgreens.

No Parmesan.

No sweet balsamic decoration.

No excessive garnish.

This is game.

The presentation should remain dark, elegant, natural, and unmistakably connected to the Tuscan countryside.

Wine Pairing

Chianti Classico Riserva

One of the most natural pairings.

Its acidity cuts through the concentrated sauce while the savory and earthy characteristics of Sangiovese complement the wild flavor of hare.

Brunello di Montalcino

For a richer and more structured pairing, Brunello is exceptional.

Its depth, tannin, mature fruit, and earthy character stand comfortably alongside a powerful salmì.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Another excellent Tuscan option.

Its balance of fruit, acidity, spice, and savory character makes it particularly suitable for slow-cooked game.

Chef Gianluca’s Recommendation

Prepare Lepre in Salmì one day before serving it.

After the hare becomes tender, allow it to cool directly in its braising liquid.

Refrigerate overnight.

The following day, remove any excessive hardened fat.

Take the pieces of hare out carefully and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer.

Strain it and reduce it separately until it becomes dark, glossy, and concentrated.

Then return the hare to the sauce and reheat it very slowly.

This method gives you deeper flavor and much greater control over the final texture.

The sauce should cling to the meat rather than flood the plate.

And most importantly, do not try to remove every trace of wildness from the hare.

That characteristic flavor is not a defect.

It is the reason Lepre in Salmì exists.

Chef Gianluca Deiana

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