Porceddu Glassato al Mirto con Patata Affumicata e Cipolla Bruciata (Italian Sardinian Myrtle-Glazed Suckling Pig with Smoked Potato and Charred Onion)

Porceddu Glassato al Mirto con Patata Affumicata e Cipolla Bruciata (Italian Sardinian Myrtle-Glazed Suckling Pig with Smoked Potato and Charred Onion)

History and Inspiration

Porceddu is one of the most emblematic dishes of Sardinia. Traditionally prepared from a young suckling pig and cooked slowly over or near aromatic wood, it represents a style of cooking built on patience, fire, and respect for the animal rather than complicated seasoning.

The defining qualities of a great porceddu are immediately recognizable: exceptionally tender meat, a thin layer of rendered fat, and crisp skin that breaks cleanly when cut.

Myrtle, or mirto, has an equally strong connection with Sardinian cooking. Its leaves and berries have long been used to perfume meats, and the aromatic character of myrtle is particularly compatible with pork because its resinous, herbal notes cut through richness.

This reinterpretation keeps those principles intact.

The suckling pig is cooked slowly until the collagen softens and the meat becomes succulent. The skin is then finished separately at higher temperature so that it becomes properly crisp rather than rubbery.

The natural roasting juices are reduced into a concentrated jus and lightly perfumed with myrtle.

That jus is then used to glaze the pork immediately before serving.

The potato component introduces a subtle smoky note that recalls traditional live-fire cooking without overwhelming the meat.

The onion is roasted until deeply caramelized and lightly charred, bringing sweetness, bitterness, and another direct reference to fire.

The plate contains only the ingredients defined for this dish: suckling pig, myrtle, potato, onion, and the pork jus.

The modernization comes from precision of cooking, texture, reduction, and plating—not from adding unrelated ingredients.

Serves 4

Four refined main-course portions.

Ingredients

For the suckling pig

1.2 kg / approximately 2 lb 10 oz suckling pig belly or shoulder with skin attached

10 g fine sea salt

2 fresh myrtle sprigs or approximately 8 fresh myrtle leaves

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

150 ml / approximately ⅔ cup dry Sardinian white wine

250 ml / approximately 1 cup light pork or chicken stock

20 ml / approximately 1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the myrtle jus and glaze

All roasting juices from the suckling pig

250 ml / approximately 1 cup light pork stock

50 ml / approximately 3 tablespoons dry white wine

6 fresh myrtle leaves

10 g cold unsalted butter

Fine sea salt, only if necessary

For the smoked potato purée

500 g / approximately 1 lb 2 oz Yukon Gold potatoes

100 ml / approximately ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon whole milk

50 g / approximately 3½ tablespoons unsalted butter

Fine sea salt

Food-safe smoking wood, preferably oak or a mild fruit wood

For the charred onion

2 medium yellow onions

15 ml / 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

A small amount of reduced pork jus for finishing

Step 1 — Prepare the Suckling Pig

Dry the pork thoroughly with kitchen paper.

The skin must be as dry as possible because moisture is the enemy of crispness.

Using a very sharp knife, lightly score the skin.

Do not cut deeply into the meat.

The purpose is simply to allow fat to render more evenly and to make the finished skin easier to portion.

Season the meat side with fine sea salt.

Use less salt directly on the skin because excessive salt can pull moisture to the surface during the early stages of cooking.

Place the pork skin-side up on a tray.

Leave uncovered in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

This drying stage significantly improves the final texture of the skin.

Remove from the refrigerator approximately 30 minutes before cooking.

Step 2 — Slow-Cook the Pork

Preheat the oven to 285°F / 140°C.

Place the crushed garlic and myrtle in the bottom of a roasting pan.

Add the white wine and stock.

The liquid should remain below the skin.

Place the pork on top, skin-side up.

Brush the skin very lightly with olive oil.

Cover the roasting pan carefully with parchment paper and then foil, leaving the skin as protected as possible from direct liquid.

Cook slowly for approximately 2½ to 3 hours.

The exact time will depend on the cut and thickness.

The pork is ready for the next stage when the meat is extremely tender but still holds together when lifted.

The internal collagen should have softened.

A small knife should enter the meat with very little resistance.

Do not continue cooking until the meat collapses completely.

The finished portion must still have enough structure for refined plating.

Step 3 — Press and Portion the Pork

Remove the pork carefully from the roasting pan.

Reserve every drop of the cooking liquid.

Remove the garlic and spent myrtle.

Place the cooked pork between two trays.

Apply only light pressure.

The objective is not to compress the meat aggressively.

You simply want to create an even thickness so that clean portions can be cut.

Refrigerate until completely chilled.

Once cold, trim the edges.

Cut into four neat rectangular portions.

Each portion should contain both meat and skin.

The portion must look natural and substantial rather than mechanically perfect.

Reserve refrigerated until the final cooking stage.

Step 4 — Prepare the Myrtle Jus

Pass the reserved roasting liquid through a fine sieve.

Allow the fat to separate.

Remove most of the excess fat but reserve approximately one teaspoon because a small amount gives the jus body and flavor.

Place the strained roasting liquid in a saucepan.

Add the pork stock.

Add the white wine.

Bring to a gentle simmer.

Reduce slowly.

Do not boil violently.

Aggressive reduction can make the jus cloudy and bitter.

When the liquid has reduced by approximately two-thirds and begins to lightly coat the back of a spoon, add the fresh myrtle leaves.

Allow the leaves to infuse for approximately 3 minutes.

Remove them.

Do not leave myrtle in the reduction for an extended period because excessive extraction can introduce harsh medicinal notes.

Continue reducing until the jus is glossy and concentrated.

Remove from the heat.

Whisk in the cold butter.

Taste before adding salt.

The natural pork reduction may already provide sufficient seasoning.

Reserve warm.

Step 5 — Prepare the Potatoes

Place the potatoes, still in their skins, into a saucepan.

Cover with cold salted water.

Bring gradually to a simmer.

Cook until completely tender.

Drain immediately.

While still hot, peel the potatoes.

Pass them through a potato ricer.

Do not use a blender.

A blender releases excessive starch and creates an elastic, glue-like purée.

Place the riced potato into a saucepan over very low heat.

Stir gently for approximately one minute to release excess moisture.

Warm the milk separately.

Add the warm milk to the potatoes gradually.

Mix gently.

Add the butter in several additions.

Continue stirring until the purée becomes smooth, glossy, and light.

Season carefully with fine sea salt.

Keep warm.

Step 6 — Smoke the Potato Purée

The smoked flavor should be subtle.

The purée must taste primarily of potato and butter, with smoke appearing only in the finish.

Place the finished warm purée into a shallow heatproof container.

Prepare a smoking setup using a smoking gun or a covered container with a small amount of smoldering food-safe wood.

Introduce the smoke.

Cover immediately.

Allow the purée to absorb smoke for approximately 2 minutes.

Taste.

If necessary, repeat for another 30 to 60 seconds.

Do not oversmoke.

Heavy smoke would overwhelm the delicate flavor of suckling pig and turn the dish bitter.

Keep the purée warm and covered.

Step 7 — Prepare the Charred Onion

Preheat the oven to 375°F / 190°C.

Cut the onions in half vertically through the root.

Leave the root attached so the layers remain together.

Brush the cut surfaces very lightly with olive oil.

Season with fine sea salt.

Heat a heavy cast-iron pan over medium-high heat.

Place the onions cut-side down.

Allow them to develop a deep brown color.

The surface should be visibly charred in certain areas but not completely black.

Transfer the pan to the oven.

Roast for approximately 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the onions.

The interior should become soft and naturally sweet.

Remove from the oven.

Allow to cool slightly.

Separate the most attractive inner onion petals.

Just before serving, brush them with a very small amount of warm pork jus.

The onion should show the contrast between caramelized exterior and tender interior.

Step 8 — Crisp the Suckling Pig

Remove the chilled pork portions from the refrigerator approximately 20 minutes before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 425°F / 220°C.

Place a heavy oven-safe sauté pan over medium heat.

Place the pork portions skin-side down in the dry pan.

Do not add excessive oil.

The remaining pork fat will render naturally.

Apply very gentle pressure for the first 20 to 30 seconds so that the entire surface of the skin touches the pan.

Cook skin-side down until the surface begins to become golden and crisp.

This should take approximately 3 to 5 minutes.

Turn carefully.

Transfer the pan to the oven.

Heat for approximately 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove.

The internal meat should be hot and tender.

The skin should be exceptionally crisp.

If the skin still requires additional crisping, return the pork skin-side down to the pan for another 30 to 60 seconds.

Do not burn it.

Step 9 — Glaze with Myrtle Jus

Return approximately 80 ml of the myrtle jus to a small saucepan.

Reduce slightly until it reaches a glaze consistency.

Place the pork portions meat-side down into the glaze for several seconds.

Turn.

Using a spoon, coat the sides of the pork with the reduction.

Avoid pouring glaze directly over the entire crispy skin.

The skin must remain crisp.

Only a very thin line of glaze may touch its edges naturally.

Remove the pork.

Rest for approximately one minute.

Final Plating

Use a large warm matte white plate.

Place approximately two tablespoons of smoked potato purée slightly off-center.

Shape it into a clean, compact quenelle or controlled oval.

Do not create a long smear across the plate.

Place one portion of glazed suckling pig beside and partially against the purée.

The crisp skin should face upward and remain completely visible.

The pork should sit naturally.

Do not stand it vertically.

Do not create a tower.

Place two small charred onion petals beside the pork.

The onion should appear roasted and natural, with visible caramelization.

Spoon a small controlled pool of myrtle jus beside the meat.

Allow a little of the sauce to touch the pork naturally.

Do not flood the plate.

Add only enough jus to provide moisture for several bites.

The final composition should have generous negative space.

No microgreens.

No flowers.

No decorative herbs.

No random powders.

No pieces of myrtle standing vertically from the meat.

The visual hierarchy must be immediate: crisp suckling pig first, smoked potato second, charred onion third, and myrtle jus connecting the plate.

The Importance of the Skin

The quality of this dish is determined largely by the contrast between the skin and the meat beneath it.

If the skin is soft, the dish loses one of the defining pleasures of porceddu.

If the meat is dry, crisp skin cannot save it.

The two cooking temperatures therefore have different purposes.

The slow first cooking tenderizes the meat and renders fat.

The second high-temperature stage creates the crisp surface.

Trying to accomplish both at the same temperature normally results in a compromise.

The Myrtle

Myrtle should function as perfume rather than sauce flavoring.

The leaves contain powerful aromatic compounds.

Used correctly, they provide a slightly resinous, Mediterranean character that immediately recalls Sardinian cooking.

Used excessively, they can become bitter.

For that reason, the myrtle is infused briefly into the finished reduction rather than boiled for the entire cooking process.

The result should be detectable when the jus reaches the nose, but it should never cover the natural sweetness of the pork.

Chef Tips

Drying the pork skin before cooking is essential.

Leave it uncovered in the refrigerator whenever possible.

Do not pour liquid over the skin during slow cooking.

Keep wine and stock underneath the meat.

Press the cooked pork only after it has become tender.

A lightly pressed portion gives cleaner presentation and more consistent reheating.

Always chill before cutting portions.

Trying to portion hot suckling pig will tear the tender meat.

Smoke the potato conservatively.

The smoke should recall the traditional fire used to prepare Sardinian pork, not turn the purée into barbecue-flavored potato.

Infuse the myrtle at the end of the jus preparation.

This preserves its aromatic freshness.

Warm the plates before serving.

The pork fat and jus lose their luxurious texture quickly on a cold plate.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Do not cook the suckling pig at high temperature from beginning to end.

Do not allow the skin to sit in cooking liquid.

Do not pour jus over the crispy skin before serving.

Do not reduce myrtle leaves for thirty minutes inside the sauce.

Do not oversmoke the potato.

Do not turn the onion completely black.

Do not make the potato purée excessively stiff.

Do not serve a huge portion of purée under the meat.

Do not create tall stacks.

Do not insert herbs, crisps, or unnecessary decorations vertically into the pork.

Do not introduce fruit, honey, mustard, or unrelated sweet elements.

This particular dish is built exclusively around pork, myrtle, smoked potato, charred onion, and jus.

Wine Pairing

A mature Cannonau di Sardegna is an excellent pairing.

The wine has enough structure to handle the richness of the suckling pig while its Mediterranean herbal character works naturally with myrtle.

Look for a Cannonau with ripe red fruit, controlled alcohol, and restrained oak rather than an excessively extracted style.

Serve at approximately 60–64°F / 16–18°C.

A Sardinian Carignano can also work particularly well, especially if the jus is highly concentrated.

Its dark fruit, savory character, and acidity create a strong counterpoint to the pork while complementing the charred onion.

Final Result

The first sensation should be the crack of the crisp skin.

Immediately beneath it, the meat should be moist, tender, and rich.

The myrtle glaze brings concentration and aromatic depth without becoming sweet.

The smoked potato provides a soft, buttery base with a barely perceptible memory of wood fire.

The onion brings caramelized sweetness and slight bitterness.

The reduced pork jus ties everything together.

The finished dish should remain unmistakably Sardinian in flavor while presenting porceddu with greater precision, restraint, and technical control.

Chef Gianluca Deiana

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