Spaghetti alla Carrettiera Siciliana (Sicilian Cart Driver’s Spaghetti)
- 4 days ago
- 4 min read
Updated: 19 hours ago
Region: Sicily
Origin: Eastern Sicily, traditionally associated with the inland areas around Catania and Ragusa
Course: Primo Piatto
Serves: 4
History and Origins
Spaghetti alla Carrettiera is one of the most direct and flavorful expressions of traditional Sicilian cooking.
The name carrettiera comes from the carrettieri, the Sicilian cart drivers who once transported goods and agricultural products between towns and villages. Their work often kept them away from home for long periods, so they needed meals that could be prepared quickly using ingredients that traveled well and did not require complicated cooking.
Dry pasta, garlic, olive oil, dried chili, Pecorino, and herbs were ideal.
Like many dishes born from necessity, Carrettiera eventually became part of Sicily's culinary identity. There are several local interpretations, and ingredients can change depending on the area and family tradition. Some versions include tomato, while others remain completely white.
This version follows the essential white Carrettiera, where garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, chili, parsley, Pecorino, and pasta water create the sauce.
The technique is simple, but the balance must be precise. The garlic should remain aromatic rather than aggressive, the chili should provide warmth without dominating, and the Pecorino should become part of the sauce rather than simply sitting on top of the spaghetti.
Ingredients
12 oz spaghetti
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, very finely minced
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
½ cup finely grated Pecorino Siciliano
½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
¾ cup reserved pasta cooking water, as needed
Kosher salt, as needed
Preparation
1. Prepare the Garlic and Parsley
Finely mince the garlic.
Chop the parsley very finely and set it aside.
Because this recipe contains so few ingredients, the garlic should be distributed evenly throughout the spaghetti rather than remaining in large pieces.
2. Cook the Spaghetti
Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.
Add the spaghetti and cook until approximately 2 minutes before al dente.
Before draining, reserve at least ¾ cup of the starchy cooking water.
Transfer the spaghetti directly to a large skillet.
3. Build the Sauce
Add the extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes to the spaghetti.
Add approximately ¼ cup of hot pasta water.
Toss continuously over low heat.
The objective is not to fry the garlic aggressively. The residual heat from the spaghetti and gentle heat from the pan should release its aroma while preserving its fresh character.
Continue tossing until the olive oil and pasta water begin forming a glossy emulsion.
4. Add the Pecorino
Remove the skillet from direct heat.
Allow it to cool for approximately 20 seconds.
Add the Pecorino Siciliano gradually while tossing vigorously.
Add additional pasta water, one tablespoon at a time, until the Pecorino, olive oil, and starch form a light creamy coating around the spaghetti.
The finished sauce should be glossy and fluid, never heavy or pasty.
5. Finish with Parsley
Add the finely chopped parsley.
Toss everything together one final time.
Taste before adding additional salt because Pecorino Siciliano already contributes considerable seasoning.
Serve immediately.
Chef Tips
Do not burn the garlic. Carrettiera should have a pronounced garlic character, but burnt garlic will make the entire dish bitter.
Use excellent extra-virgin olive oil. There is nowhere for mediocre olive oil to hide in this recipe.
Finely grate the Pecorino. A fine texture allows the cheese to emulsify much more easily with the pasta water.
Control the temperature when adding the cheese. Excessive heat can cause Pecorino to tighten and form lumps.
Do not make it dry. Proper Carrettiera should have a thin, glossy emulsion coating every strand of spaghetti.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Using butter or cream: Neither is necessary. The creaminess comes naturally from olive oil, Pecorino, starch, and pasta water.
Frying the garlic until brown: You want its aroma, not bitterness.
Adding too much Pecorino at once: Incorporate it gradually to maintain a smooth emulsion.
Overcooking the spaghetti: Finish them while tossing with the sauce so they remain properly al dente.
Using dried parsley: Fresh flat-leaf parsley provides the freshness needed to balance garlic, chili, and cheese.
Serving and Presentation
Serve the Spaghetti alla Carrettiera immediately in warm shallow bowls.
Twirl the spaghetti into a compact but natural nest and spoon any remaining emulsion over the top.
Finish with a very light dusting of Pecorino Siciliano and a small amount of finely chopped parsley.
Keep the presentation clean and restrained. This is a rustic Sicilian dish whose beauty should come from the glossy spaghetti and the quality of the ingredients rather than unnecessary decoration.
Wine Pairing
Pair with a chilled Etna Bianco DOC.
Its minerality and freshness work particularly well with the intensity of raw garlic, Pecorino, chili, and extra-virgin olive oil.
A Grillo Sicilia DOC is another excellent option, particularly if you prefer a slightly rounder and more aromatic white wine.
Chef Gianluca’s Recommendation
Carrettiera demonstrates why apparently simple Italian recipes can be among the hardest to execute correctly.
There is no heavy sauce to hide mistakes.
Use excellent olive oil, keep the spaghetti properly al dente, control the heat, and use the starchy cooking water aggressively enough to create a real emulsion.
The final result should be garlicky, spicy, savory, fresh, and intensely Sicilian, with every strand of spaghetti completely coated but never greasy.
Chef Gianluca Deiana
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