Around Italy: Liguria, Italy Between the Sea, Cliffs, Villages, and Pesto

Around Italy: Liguria, Italy Between the Sea, Cliffs, Villages, and Pesto

Liguria is one of Italy’s most dramatic regions, a narrow crescent of land squeezed between the Ligurian Sea and steep mountains. Villages cling to cliffs, terraced fields climb hillsides, fishing ports sit below mountain roads, and nearly every part of the culture reflects the challenge of living with limited space.

Genova, the Great Maritime Republic

Genova was one of the great maritime powers of the Mediterranean. Merchants, bankers, sailors, shipbuilders, and navigators connected the city with Spain, North Africa, the eastern Mediterranean, northern Europe, and eventually the Americas. Its wealth created palaces, churches, dense neighborhoods, and one of Europe’s most fascinating historic centers.

The Caruggi

The narrow streets of old Genova form a maze between the port and the hills. Elegant palaces can appear suddenly beside tiny alleys, bakeries, artisan shops, churches, and old commercial buildings. Genova rewards exploration because its beauty is rarely presented all at once.

Via Garibaldi and the Palazzi dei Rolli

The aristocratic palaces along Via Garibaldi reflect the extraordinary wealth of Genoese families. Courtyards, frescoes, monumental staircases, and richly decorated rooms preserve the memory of the republic’s political and banking power.

Porto Antico

The old port remains central to Genoese identity. It is impossible to separate Genova from the sea. For centuries ships arriving here carried people, goods, ideas, and ingredients that shaped Ligurian culture.

Pesto Genovese

Pesto is Liguria’s most internationally famous culinary creation. Basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino, extra virgin olive oil, and salt are traditionally worked in a mortar. The result should be fragrant and fresh, never heavy or oily.

Trofie and Trenette

Trofie and trenette are two classic pasta partners for pesto. Potatoes and green beans are often cooked with the pasta, creating one of the region’s most recognizable dishes. The pasta should finish with the pesto and enough cooking water to create a smooth coating.

Focaccia Genovese

True Genoese focaccia is soft inside, slightly crisp underneath, and rich with olive oil. It is eaten for breakfast, as a snack, and throughout the day.

Focaccia di Recco

Recco’s famous focaccia is completely different. Extremely thin layers of dough surround soft cheese and bake until crisp, delicate, and molten.

Farinata

Farinata is made from chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt. Baked at high heat, it develops browned edges and a tender center. It is a perfect example of Liguria’s ability to create memorable food from inexpensive ingredients.

Taggiasca Olives

Western Liguria is particularly famous for Taggiasca olives. Small, aromatic, and delicate, they are prized both as table olives and for olive oil.

Cinque Terre

Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore form the Cinque Terre. The villages occupy one of Italy’s most dramatic sections of coastline, surrounded by cliffs, terraced vineyards, stone walls, and narrow paths.

The Terraces

Generations of farmers built dry-stone terraces into impossibly steep slopes. Without them, agriculture would be nearly impossible. The labor required to maintain these vineyards is one of the reasons Cinque Terre viticulture is often described as heroic.

Sciacchetrà

The historic sweet wine of Cinque Terre is produced from partially dried grapes. It can develop aromas of dried fruit, honey, herbs, and Mediterranean vegetation.

Portofino

Portofino became one of the symbols of Italian Riviera elegance. Its small harbor, colorful buildings, luxury yachts, and surrounding hills created an international image of coastal Italy.

Camogli

Camogli retains stronger fishing-town character. Tall colorful houses line the waterfront and maritime traditions remain important.

San Fruttuoso

The Abbey of San Fruttuoso sits in a small bay surrounded by steep wooded hills. Accessible mainly by boat or on foot, it combines history, nature, and sea in one exceptional setting.

Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo

These towns provide broader, more lived-in bases for exploring the Gulf of Tigullio while remaining close to Portofino and the surrounding coast.

Portovenere and the Gulf of Poets

Portovenere stands at the entrance to the Gulf of La Spezia. Its medieval waterfront, castle, and Church of San Pietro create one of the most striking coastal scenes in Liguria. Across the gulf, Lerici combines beaches, literary history, and a dramatic castle.

Sanremo and the Western Riviera

Western Liguria has a softer climate and long association with flowers, palms, villas, and winter tourism. Sanremo became internationally known through music and its elegant resort history.

Dolceacqua

Inland from the coast, Dolceacqua preserves a medieval village, stone bridge, and ruined castle. Claude Monet famously painted the bridge and surrounding landscape.

Rossese, Vermentino, and Pigato

Liguria produces distinctive wines despite limited vineyard land. Rossese di Dolceacqua is an aromatic red, while Vermentino and Pigato produce fresh whites with citrus, herbs, mineral, and saline characteristics.

Seafood

Anchovies, sardines, mussels, octopus, squid, cuttlefish, sea bass, and red mullet appear throughout Ligurian cooking. Preparations are often deliberately simple.

Pansoti and Salsa di Noci

Pansoti are filled pasta traditionally based on greens and herbs. They are commonly served with walnut sauce, another signature Ligurian condiment.

Torta Pasqualina

This savory pie combines greens, cheese, eggs, and thin pastry. It represents the region’s long tradition of vegetable-based cooking.

When to Visit

Spring and autumn are ideal for hiking and coastal towns. Summer is best for swimming and boating but is the busiest season. Winter remains mild along much of the coast.

What Makes Liguria Special

Liguria’s culture grew directly from geography. Limited land created terraces. Mountains pushed villages upward. The sea shaped trade and food. Herbs, nuts, olive oil, vegetables, seafood, and preserved ingredients became the foundation of a cuisine famous for intensity without heaviness. Liguria is narrow on the map but culturally enormous.

Around Italy by ZAFFERANO & CO.

Chef Gianluca